7.3 hard to start

[cash]

my 7.3 is starting about the same every time. It starts out cranking slow then gets faster until it starts.
I am using 12volt glow plugs on a switch. I will start the glow 10 to 15 sec before I start cranking (on cold starts). If it is warm I don't need the glow plugs but it starts the same way. takes about 15 sec. of cranking.
I just rebuilt the motor and have not set dynamic timing. If it is leaking injectors should I fix them before spending money on timing?

 

[RLDSL]

Timing is needed and can greatly effect the starting . For about what it would cost you to get it done, you can buy a Ferret Pulse adapter and use it with a standard automotive advance type timing light to time the thing yourself, then you have the tool next time you need it, aside from knowing for sure that the job was done correctly.

if you have leaking injectors, they might hold a little while, if you have ones that are slobbering at the tips, better replace them before they cause internal damage.

 

[cash]

Thanks for the reply RLDSL,
And the info on the adapter!
So I just set the timing at 8 or 9 deg. btdc @2000rpm and that should also be 2 deg btdc when idling?
what would be the difference between slobbering at the tips and leaking injectors?
Thanks

 

[Diesel JD]

I think leaking means the ones that are weeping at the returns whereas the slobbering ones mean injectors that are just dumping fuel into the cylinders. I think either air/fuel leaks or your timing might be the problem you have.

 

[cash]

Thanks Diesel DJ,
I wonder if slobbering injectors would make it hard to start and crank slower when you first start cranking? Money is tight and we are just trying to get through for now. I need to test the injectors but 200.00 to clean and test is hard to come up with now. If I'm going to hurt the engine by using it I wont take a chance. But timing could wait. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.

 

[RLDSL]

If the injector tips are slobbering, you should be able to smell fuel contamination in the oil, you'd be able to smell it on the dipstick., if they are leaking externally, it won't damage the engine, but it can allow the system to drain back into the tank when parked and have you sucking air while trying to start. the external leaks are usually the O rings in the return line caps, and sometimes a loose line nut. if external, you can get a return line kit and it will come with new orings and caps and hose to fix that all up.

 

[cash]

Thanks again RLSDL,
I will check for fuel in the oil.
I have done the clear rubber hose off the fuel filter to #1 return, I checked after sitting all night and no air at all there. I did the new return line kit when I rebuilt.
This engine starts the same after sitting 30 min or 12 hrs you just have to use the glow if it is cold.
I will let you know about the smell of the oil. Thanks again

 

[cash]

no fuel smell in oil but the engine only has 200mi on the rebuild

 

[royzell]

I wonder about battery condition ? Low batteries in time will fry a starter as well.

 

[EMD_DRIVER]

My 87 6.9 did the same thing and it was determined that the starter was shot.. I cleaned every point where the batteries were connected, but it was not the problem.

Thanks to Darrin, I now have a gear-reduction starter on it, and the problem is history!

Gary

BTW: The bad starter did fry one of my batteries..

 

[cash]

Thanks for the replys royzell and EDM DRIVER
Batterys and starter have all been tested and test good.

 

[suv7734]

Slow cranking is most likely what's causing the problem. If it doesn't spin over it won't start. After cranking for a bit feel the battery cables to see if any are warm. A warm one indicates a bad connection. Were the batteries load tested and disconnected before testing? They must be isolated before testing or one bad battery might not show up. How was the starter tested?
Battery cables and connections are a big thing. Check both of the ground connections at the block (one on each side from each battery) as they need to be very clean and tight. Any amount of corrosion at the battery terminals needs to be cleaned. Check the ends of the cables where they go into the teminals for cracks in the insulation and any corrosion showing. The fastest way to burn up a starter is from low power due to batteries or poor cables and connections.

 

[cash]

It starts out cranking slow then gets faster until it starts.
I took the batteries out and had auto zone test them, checked to make sure they are the right size. Tested starter ok.
Connections or starter does not get hot starting just one time, .Maybe I could get something hot if I keep cranking but I would think that normal. It will start in about 15sec.cold with glow or same hot without glow.

 

[RLDSL]

starter and battery have tested good

Yes, but what kind of shape are the battery cables in? If they are stock , chances are, they are due for replacement. They can get an insane amount of corrosion built up inside the cables near the ends, great batts won't do any good if the juice can't get through.

 

[FordGuy100]

Yes, but what kind of shape are the battery cables in? If they are stock , chances are, they are due for replacement. They can get an insane amount of corrosion built up inside the cables near the ends, great batts won't do any good if the juice can't get through.

I can vouch for that right there. My truck started up so fast....until I had to get new batteries and move my battery cables. Even with my new batteries, since I had to move the battery cables (which are stock), it turns over much much slower now.