7.3 build thread. What would you do?

[cpdenton]

It is about time to yank the engine and get some new parts on it! I am very excited to get this project started.

I have in my possession head studs, rebuilt heads, a typ4 cam and a new gasket set.

The engine in my truck runs well, but I am suspicious of the valve train starting to get some wear. It sounds like an exhaust leak under load, so I am afraid I am losing a valve seat. The parts I have will take care of this problem.

My biggest question is concerning the lower end. I have a complete engine torn down in my shed. I have no idea how to measure the cylinder bores to see what shape they are in. I think I would at least like to re-ring the Pistons and put new bearing on the rods and mains. Seems like the smart thing to do.

I would really love to balance the rotating assembly, but money is certainly a factor.

Honestly, the thought of what all needs to be measure and checked is a little intimidating for me. I am not even real sure what measurement devices I need to get accurate readings of the crank, rods and bores....
I have been reading threads and looking at YouTube videos of all these measurements being taken, but it doesn't seem to be any less intimidating.

Should I just put my new heads and all on top of my running engine, or should I try to go all the way and build up my parts engine to new specs?

I value all your opinions, that is why I ask.

 

[laserjock]

I think you can get by with a set of snap gauges and mic's but I am no expert here. I'm interested as well for the next go-round.

 

[88 Ford]

I would do the full build. You have some of the parts and you'll gain the experience as you do it.

 

[riotwarrior]

In the interest of brevity...

Overhaul...IMHO = reusing old pistons adding new rings and bearings because all is within tolerance.

Rebuild....IMHO = NEW pistons and pins and in stock bores...often borez ok but collapsed pizton or bad pin etc.

Remanufactured...= Rebored or zleeved block new pistons and pin n azsociated parts..

Just my head space abive.

Snap guage set and external mic set are all you need for the level you would do....oh maybe some plasti guage too.

Mic crank on main and rod journals 4x + pattern each journal...looking for out of round and or taper..

Mic rod big ends using snap guages and mics...again out of round etc

Mic main bearing bores same..out of round and or taper.

Mic cylinder bores in several spots top mid n bottom of bores in a + pattern again looking for taper and out of round.

Mic pistons + there will be a slight oval sjape in all likely hood. Is it consistent piston to piston? Again doing this in at least 4 spots in + pattern.

Not rocket science...yer not buikding thermonuclear sub here...

Hone bores if within tolerances...if not decide...rebore ya na!

Pretty basic stuff to do.

Just get good with mic and snap gauges write down everything you check.

When if decide do it ...we can dizcuss some finer details..piston ring side clearances and so forth...ring end gaps and so on....

If you can change a tyre and read a tape measure you can OVERHAUL an engine!

JM7.3CW

 

[firehawk]

Call a machine shop that does engine work. See if they work on your engine and get a price. Its much easier to have a professional do it right the first time, rather than pull and repair again for some screw up.

 

[cpdenton]

I know for a fact that if my spare block is built, new Pistons will be a must. There are cracks in the top of them.

No Idea on my running engine.

I can run a mic. Pretty sure I can check the crank and hopefully, one of the two I have will work.

Anyone have a suggestion on a bore gauge that is of good quality? I don't mind buying good ones, but also, as little as I would use it, would harbor freight be ok?

 

[riotwarrior]

Snap guage n mic...or internal mic

 

[IDIBRONCO]

By the way, if you don't have a crank that meets specs, or one that is close, you can have the crank turned down and run oversized bearings. Either the mains, rods, or both can be turned. It's rare that a crank from a good running engine is no good as long as it wasn't run low on oil.

 

[Clb]

Another option as riot mentioned, also you can get a good machinist to do all the test work... ( mike stuff check crank ect.)
For a nominal fee sometimes free if he gets the job.
Pressure testing magnufluxing line boring ballancing are not in the garage shop normal parameters.