6.2L Cost Of Ownership vs...

sonic reducer

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I find myself in need of a 4x4 pickup. I don't have a ton of money to spend and so am considering older diesels. I am wondering if anyone has some insight on the cost of ownership of a chevy 6.2/early 6.5 truck vs an IDI ford, and gassers as well. I don't need a ton of power but I do need good fuel economy and a decent amount of square footage. my budget is about $3000 and I am looking for the truck that is going to cost the least to operate reliably, with nearly all else being secondary. the truck would haul material for work, but never more than about 1000lbs and not far. then carrying dirt bikes, and various skiing and camping activities. from what I have read thus far, 6.2's are better for mileage but 6.9's are more reliable. I'm considering gassers like an early 90s chevy w/t 1500 with the 4.3, as those get in the low 20's mpg wise and are definitely cheap to own.
can someone steer me in the right direction?
 

79jasper

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For me that's a toss up.
The 6.2 doesn't use injector caps, so there's no worry of needing to replace those. Also no damn leaky oil cooler to mess with.
Another thing, the 6.2's came in halftons, so you definitely have a better chance at a better mileage. In the same halftons, you can get the five speed, so no autos to worry about.
I never had one single problem with my 6.2. Haven't had a 6.9, but as far as the 7.3 idi goes, has a little more power than the 6.2, but from the ones I've been around lately, I would stay away from it.
So I guess I'd lean more to the 6.2. JMO
 

tanman_2006

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I like my 6.5's. My 82 (actually 81 build date and originally came with the 81 GM Red 6.2 which was a great block) got 32mpg on the highway with my foot to the floor getting into traffic. Has a 700R4 tranny w/ 3.08 gears which means it is very sluggish getting to speed.

My 95 Z71 has been my DD for ~120K miles and in that time I have put: new PMD w/ 6ft cable and heat sink behind my bumper ~$300 for a kit, $120 walbro lift pump (got for $40 used, not needed but helps over the stocker), $250 diamond eye 4" exhaust (not needed but helps ALOT), $140 in crank and harmonic balancers, $20 boost solenoid (old one crapped out), $40 97 and newer air box with donaldson filter (not needed but helps), ~$20 for an OPS 12v relay to operate lift pump, new hayden fan clutch (originals are past service life after 5yrs) and $300 for a programmed ECM.

I'm sure there are a few other trial and error things I have done but that is what it took to get my truck where I wanted. Now by body is rotted out and beat up from farm life and some jobs I have had that the truck pulled through. I am currently getting my 93 C3500 crew cab ready to accept all of the parts and engine that I installed on my 95 and will transfer it over.

Parts for 6.2/6.5s are cheap and plentiful. The military still uses them in Humvees and their 80's model trucks. A 90's model 4x4 crew cab or ex cab truck can be found for cheap if you are patient and not bad to get in great/reliable condition. Once they are up to ***** they are easy to maintain.

That being said, 93 and older 6.2/6.5's have mechanical IP's and dont require PMD kits or chips to increase power/reliability and same goes for a 6.9/7.3L. In my experience the ford diesels get abused worse than GM's so they arent as easy to find in good condition.
 

opusd2

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Well, having owned both the GM 6.2 and the Ford/IH 6.9 engines in various vehicles as well as more than a couple of gassers, I guess I can give a somewhat unbiased opinion of the vehicles you are thinking about.

First of all I will start with my 1989 GMC K1500 4x4 regular cab/long bed with the 5.7 gas engine and TH700R4 transmission. I've owned it since about 60K miles and it's now just passing the 300K mark and I will say that it is an extremely reliable, capable, customizable, durable, truck that I get pretty decent mileage with. With the 3.42 axles, Dual Optima batteries, K&N air filter, Mobil synthetic 5w40 oil in engine, synthetic transmission fluid, all other fluids are synthetics, 265/75-16 AP tires, a few other mods (all legal and passes emissions) and I get 20 HWY cruising at 70 or more with a big fiberglass cap on back. With the 2" receiver hitch in back I can pull whatever I need or want to (though not in OD). I replaced the engine with a Goodwrench maybe 100K after I bough the truck used, and the transmission RIGHT after I bought it because I wasn't aware the previous owner used to just pound the truck hauling extremely oversize loads to a GoodWrench replacement that is still running without hiccups. And I've used the truck on the farm pulling loads, moved out to WY and back to WI with a few trip back and forth in between cruising at 80+ mph in OD with cruise and air conditioning running as necessary. It hauls extremely steady with power, and I have gone through some INCREDIBLE amounts of snow with no locker only an open rear end and have also pulled a few friends and my Dad out of snowy and muddy ditches as needed. The worst mileage I ever got was 13 mpg when the truck was new and needed a tuneup badly and had a bad tranny, to a best of 24 mpg doing 80 in Nebraska in OD always running synthetic lubricants and at minimum 91 Octane fuel. I still own the truck, it always starts no matter the temp, and am still on the original fuel pump even though I need to change it.

Now there's the 1986 F250 2wd super cab long bed truck with 6.9l diesel and C6 auto tranny that I bought from my parents who used it as a farm truck. There was a gooseneck hitch put in back and a 32' flatbed trailer with beaver tail that was frequently used to hail everything from HUGE loads of hay, tractors and other farm equipment through rough fields and on the road, and with wood sides made for it more than a few people were moved around as well. I know when my folks owned it it was abused with long durations of time between oil changes in the engine and transmission (in fact I don't think they ever changed the tranny fluid the way it looked when I would occasionally change it for them once a year or so with regular oils). So when I bought it, there wasn't a straight panel on the truck having had been hit by tractors, trucks, the skid steer, run into by large Holsteins, and no transmission kickdown hooked up to it. I quickly found out that only a few glow plugs worked and it started hard until it got cold out when it needed to be plugged in to start and with no glow plugs energized I put an ether assist button on the dash for cold starts. I changed all of the filters, lift pump, hooked up the vacuum and kickdown on the transmission and changed all the fluids to synthetic. I was fortunate that the seals were still really tight and there are no leaks and good oil pressure. Now this engine will run around 20 mpg whether loaded or not, and I've had it so loaded down that the overload springs were being utilized by the truck and the front was up with the back down. It looked comical. But it will also burn every diesel I toss into it, and plenty of other oils and fluids as well. But with a couple of additives with every tank, I get that good mileage but I tend to drive 50-55 mph tops when on the highway. It feels like a vehicle that wants to just cruise and enjoy the ride anyway.

With a 1982 Chevy Suburban 1/2 ton 4x4 that has a 6.2l diesel and 700R4 in it, and a 1984 CUCV M1009 (the military version of the Chevy Blazer 4x4 that's equivalent to a heavy 3/4 ton with less amenities and EGR on it) with the 6.2l diesel and th400 tranny in it I get similar mileages and that's with much different setups. The Suburban is pretty much stock with 31/10.50-15 tires on it and 4 speed overdrive, and the Blazer has 37/12.50-16.5 tires on it with a 3 speed and no overdrive. They both have good glow plugs in them and start easily and dependably. There are hitches on them both, but I rarely haul any trailers with them since I have so much room inside and I like hauling with the GMC truck because I have stiff suspension on it and it has more comfortable seats I put in afterwards while the Suburban and Blazer have stock seats in them. They both hold at least 5 larger people comfortably, though the Blazer takes a little more of a hop to get into it because of the height. As usual I put synthetics in them both wherever I could, and they are a little rougher on the steering system and need to have joints changed a little more often, especially on the CUCV. The Suburban in stock form had gotten about 30 mpg on long trips with just a load of a few passengers in it and new tires. The Blazer, with the large tires that fit without a lift due to custom rums with the right offset that allows for off-roading without hitting any of the body panels, was giving me a consistent ~25 mpg on the highway and ~20 mpg mixed stop and go traffic with a full tank of diesel and a couple of additives put into it. With the lower cetane ratings and quality of the fuels today, I will often put in some 2 cycle oil into the fuel tanks for the benefit of the injection pump, which does seem quieter with the additives in. Now both GM vehicles have factory traction aids in the rear ends with the Suburban having a "posi-traction" unit and the Blazer having a "Gov-Lock" in it's similar 6 Lug 10 Bolt rear end, and both have HydroBoost brakes which operate off of the power steering pump and not engine vacuum like other vehicles and have incredible stopping power. The worst mileage I got with the Blazer was a heavy snow storm last year where I drove a couple of hours to the cabin in 4wd getting 15 mpg hwy doing 35-40 in heavy slushy snow. And though some people don't like the "Gov-Lock", I've found it to be an incredible aid in maneuvering the short wheel base Blazer in sloppy conditions.

Of course the diesels are all a bit louder running than any gas powered vehicle, and tire choices DO add to the noise especially with the HUMMER tires on the Blazer. But any vehicle can hold the weight and have the ride you want depending on the choice of suspension, shocks, tires and other sway and roll controls as well as seat choice and vehicle comforts such as insulation and carpeting or bed liners added on.

There are definite factors like a longer wheelbase vehicle tends to haul a trailer with a little more resistance to lateral swaying due to weight being hauled behind, and a shorter wheelbase vehicle is easier to maneuver around in tight areas or park in a smaller area. Diesels require a little more care in colder weather in order to start or keep going as fuel will gel up and not flow well enough to run the engine if it is TOO cold and there is no treating the fuel ahead of time. Diesels can run on a wider variety of petroleum products including waste oils and even vegetable oils. Diesels tend to haul heavier loads more efficiently, but are heavier vehicles as well.

Gasoline powered vehicles can start in cold weather a lot easier, but sometimes require a certain octane fuel or they will lose power and efficiency as timing changes. They can run a lot quieter, depending on the exhaust system you choose, but like any vehicle need to breath freely. Gas vehicles are usually less maintenance intensive and for the most part cheaper to maintain.

You know, I can keep rambling on all I want, but for the most part the right choice for your needs are dependent on what you like. Like anything, the best thing to do is to ask owners of different vehicles of what they like about their rides, and see if you can test drive as much as you can and formulate your own opinion. And remember, tire choices will affect noise and performance so that is ONE more detail to consider...

So did I help or confuse you? :D
 

Hoss6.9

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I have owned several 6.2's and a 6.5TD besides my 6.9, 7.3's and all of my 7.3 PSD's.... I loved my 6.2 in a half ton 4x4 reg cab long bed w/ a 700R4, 3.73's.... It was a pooch but, it rode like a car and got 23 mpg. My dad was pissed when I bought this truck. I went and got a bank note for it. I brought it home and after the first time he drove it. I couldn't hardly get him out of it. On his first trip out with it. He went to the bank and paid off my note. Then he was all about driving that truck. He would rather drive it than their car. I had a hard time getting rid of that truck years after he died. My 6.5TD was a '94 2500 4x4 ext cab long bed 5 spd with 4.10's and I would get 22-24 on the highway and 14-15 mpg pulling my 33' 5'er.... It was not a powerhouse like my PSD's but, it rode really nice and was comfortable for my family at the time. Besides - It was a pristine truck. It was dark blue metallic over silver with blue cloth interior. My favorite color is blue and I haven't been able to find another blue truck since I sold the '94. I always got alot of compliments on that truck.... I am just about to buy a '97 Suburban 2500 6.5TD 4L80E (Oops! - Thanks for the correction!) 4x4 3.73's Loaded and It's - Dark Blue Metallic over Gold with tan leather interior for my wife shortly - I think....???? Seats 9. So we will have room for family, guest(s), groceries and cargo.... I'm pretty excited to get the 6.5TD again.... My wife is excited too....

Trans. corrected!
 
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tanman_2006

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Not to correct you too much but a 97 burb will have a HD4l80E tranny. Pretty much a turbo 400 w/ overdrive, very stout compared to a 700R4
 

sonic reducer

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Well thanks a lot guys for the input. At this point I am leaning towards a later 6.2 truck. I want to go diesel over gas for the prospects of running waste oils whenever there is an opportunity to do so, and from what I hear the mechanicals on them are not really out of my capability. I've never done stuff like timed an IP or anything. I was a bit put off of working on diesels from owning a VW TDI which was very computerized and the rest of the vehicle a piece of crap, but great motor.
what do you guys think of a solid axle 80's truck over an early 90s IFS truck chassis wise? I have no real preference since I have no real plans for building it and am not majorly concerned with ride quality. more things like tire wear and steering component wear. I did have a TTB ford F250 a few years ago that was hell on front tires and I'm not keen on getting back to that setup. I will say that if a IDI F350 4x4 single cab with the D60 came up in my price range I would grab it. I'd be a lot more interested in fords if it werent for the TTB suspension and that I need a single cab long bed. seems almost all the fords in my area are extra cab which is just a little too much truck for in town here.
 
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tanman_2006

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Depends on your use for the truck. I like my GM IFS alot better design as far as tire wear and longevity than ford, GM ifs takes less maintence. I get ~180K out of stock steering IE tie rods, pitman, and idler. I can get 250K or better on stock ball joints. I use my trucks for work and they see a pasture 90% of the times they are driven. Just because the rubber boot on a GM ball joint is cracked doesnt mean it is bad like the tire stores will tell you, just keep them greased at every oil change and check for slack every other oil change IF they are cracked. Only had one upper ball joint fail (@246K) on my 95 K1500 and its fixing to get its second pitman arm @285K OEM tire rods and replaced idler ~170K with last pitman. 93 K3500 has all OEM ball joints and the tie rods were good, just needed pitman and Idler @ 210K, I screwed up a tie rod in the process so I replaced them all.

That being said the solid axle will last better if you drive through alot of rough fields. It is heavier and might reduce MPG a bit: slight wind drag under carriage and increased vehicle height (maybe 2-3" over a 2wd ifs same model). Parts price is probably similar over all for a total rebuild of each, individual parts prices may vary.

GMT 400 series trucks had better brakes and more creature comforts, also a turbo is easy to add on one too!
 

opusd2

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I never thought I would like the IFS on my 89 K1500 4x4 as much as I did, but it's been amazing.
 

Kevin 007

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I would go with a 6.2 half ton.(if you can find one in a 4x4) Keep it cool, gear down on hills and it will be good to you. Great mileage and you still have that 8ft box!!!!
 
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