3G 130A swap works wonders.

[Silver91Hatch]

Ya goof, you don't space the pulley out cause the shaft's a bit on the short side as is, instead you take a die-grinder to the ribs on the alternator case. Least that's what I did, worked just fine

Well, mine is still under warranty so when that ends I will do that, but I see them frowning on me hacking into the case.

 

[rhkcommander]

voltage sense wire can be cut down to 2" and attached to alternator output so then its just power cable coming off

 

[Rot Box]

Great info here guy's

Sorry to sound like a total newb, but if higher amps are the fix what are the pros/cons to swapping on a 165amp alternator from a truck with the ambulance package?

 

[Dave7.3]

Does anyone have a 3G swap wiring diagram? I think I'll give the mod a shot since it will free up more space under my hood (ditching the old regulator). In fact, the wiring has been the only thing holding me back. Alot of guys have told me to cut out about 3 yards of wire and others wire the new alt straight into the plug on the old regulator. Not 100% sure which one is the one that won't be a fire hazard lol

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well, mine is still under warranty so when that ends I will do that, but I see them frowning on me hacking into the case.

Good call on the warranty. I suppose grinding can still be done so it looks sorta inconspicuous (sand things down nice and smooth), but why take chances...

 

[LCAM-01XA]

voltage sense wire can be cut down to 2" and attached to alternator output so then its just power cable coming off

That's the way I always do 'em too, you you still need the key-on trigger wire to turn the thing on and off.

Sorry to sound like a total newb, but if higher amps are the fix what are the pros/cons to swapping on a 165amp alternator from a truck with the ambulance package?

Higher amps are a fix only when you need them, on a mostly stock IDI with any non-E4OD transmission the only noticeable power draws are the headlights and running lights, which are still way way less than what a factory 1G puts out. Not sure about the 165-amp alt, but if I had a serpentine belt setup I'd jump right on the 215-amp Mitsubishi alt, if you gonna go big might as well go all the way right?

Does anyone have a 3G swap wiring diagram? I think I'll give the mod a shot since it will free up more space under my hood (ditching the old regulator). In fact, the wiring has been the only thing holding me back. Alot of guys have told me to cut out about 3 yards of wire and others wire the new alt straight into the plug on the old regulator. Not 100% sure which one is the one that won't be a fire hazard lol

It's pretty simple really, and you do indeed remove most all factory wiring, along with the VR itself. Here's the generic 3G wiring diagrams from FFI:

You must be registered for see images

 

[itsacrazyasian]

find yourself a plug at the junkyard and snip the plug off with some wire left on it and the little single wire pigtail. From there all you need is one 12v key on ignition source and the alternator is functional. You might want to consider upgrading your charge lead though.

basically the yellow/white wire on the stock plug, cut enough wire so you can crimp a ring terminal onto it and attach it to the output lug of the alternator (same lug that goes to the solenoid or battery to charge the truck), the white/black wire gets attached back to the alternator and the green/red (which ford has used that color for like 40 years?) gets 12v key on power. Thats it! Simple 1 wire operation.

 

[coletrain777]

What is the 215 amp Mitsubishi alternator setup... never heard about this. What does it come on, price, what mods do I need to do to make it work (I have a serp setup and not afraid to do metal fab).

 

[LCAM-01XA]

It's an ambulance thing, how much it costs depends on where you buy it from (your local parts stores can get it too). As for exact mods, heck if I know, but it's a pedestal-mount setup just like what you have now.