1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!

[SDEconVan]

Oookaaay, that was one heck of a birthday party for Our Country- I think my head fell off
But, I'm back at it and while I wait for parts to arrive, I've been going after details.

First thing is trying to dial-in the Trans Fluid Dipstick to read correctly. I purchased a stick online, assuming
the Tube I had was from an Econoline (which I remember pulling it from an early 90's at the Pick-U-Pull,) I put
the two parts together and I got this:

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What you're looking at is the long tube inserted into the stub tube (which goes into the E4OD,) and the new
dipstick I got. Note the amount of stick-out of the dipstick...

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there is 4-1/2" of stick-out, which seems like too much.

Anybody know or could someone who has their trans apart maybe measure and let me know?

If it is too much sticking out, I can weld a little more to the top end of the long tube (good thing, it will be easier to
access the dipstick handle.)

The C6 had about HALF that much sticking out.

Kinda stuck on this one, can't find any spec or even pics that might help!!!

**************************************

Borg Warner 1356 Teardown and Rebuild

This topic has been covered pretty well in other forums, BUT there are a few items which have been overlooked
and could make things a little easier for the rebuild.

The BW1356 is part of the planned E4OD build so I want to include it (and also the upcoming cooling system and
electronic control.)

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Be sure the Transfer Case gets drained real good, then remove the tailshaft housing:

<edit: Note I did not cover removing the speedo drive gear, it's not that hard really, just slide off the clip ring/band
which is located just ahead/behind the yellow (in this case,) drive gear, then slide the gear further onto the Output Shaft,
where the clip band was, then let a little ball bearing fall out from where the yellow gear originally resided, then slide
the gear off, and also a black rubber spacer.>

Torx bits hold the transfer case together.

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It is a good idea to buy a QUALITY Torx Bit set, there are a LOT OF BAD quality tools out there and Torx bits
will bear this out. The bits tend to twist, or yield and get wrecked easily if the bit material is sub-standard.
Go with a major brand name is my advice.

Note the bore in the Transfer Case for the speed sensor AND speedometer cable. (Keeping in mind my 1985
Van has a cable driven speedometer and the newer E4OD uses a speed sensor.

These two parameters are built into one unit:

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The cable has a squared end that is inserted into the sensore/drive adapter (red o-ring.)

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The two-pin connector is for the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor, blue gasket) which in my case connects
directly to the Baumann Controller. The 6.9L idi does not require an engine management parameter.

I had to verify the fitment, since this was a new component to me:

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The speedo drive gears are not shown, but were calculated to match the size of the new tires planned later on.

Next, the Output Shaft Circlip is removed,

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And again, this is a case where it pays to buy better quality tools. The Circlip has two little holes into which the
pliers get inserted. I had to file the plier tips to fit just right into the little holes. This tool is used more than
once on the Transfer Case.

Carefully the case is split. It is basically glued together using specialty RTV,

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(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

Borg-Warner 1356 Transfer Case Teardown (cont.)

Brute force IS NOT where it's at to get the halves apart. Instead just insert a large flat blade between the two
bosses, and "lightly" pry. But put your ear close and listen, and pry over and over, and listen for the sound
of tape being pulled (the silicone seam, departing,) after about 20 or 30 light cycles, you will see progress, then
after a little more effort, kind of suddenly, the case will come apart:

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Note the minimal mark on the inside surface of the boss, very little pressure is needed, NO POUNDING, NO BFH's

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With the back off, you can start going at it...

Oh almost forgot, since I did it much earlier, but the Rear Output Yoke (slider) needs to come off (easy) and the Front
Output Yoke needs to come off (not as easy.)

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THIN walled 1-1/4" socket is needed (32mm will work) but I didn't have any thin walled ones all mine are impact type.
Local autoparts stores have the thin ones, pretty cheap like 8 bucks.

Using the impact it came right off.

The two yokes were sent out to get Output Flanges put on them, because I am using driveshafts with double-Cardan
joints for higher angles and smoother operation (better harmonics.)

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The Rear Output will basically have a Slip Yoke Eliminator put on it.

Anyways back to the teardown... ...just like the E4OD itself, the BW1356 is put together so it is difficult to put together
wrong, so I just started yanking parts off

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I wanted to emphasize the importance of having good tools, here you can see how I filed the points of the tool to fit
the circlip really well. This makes the work go easier.

Once that Circlip comes off you can start sliding parts off the Output Shaft.

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Lock Sprocket, Shift Fork, Support Shaft, Springs... All are pretty obvious in how they come off. You can find a lot
of good info on the Internet by searching "BW1356 Teardown" if you seek more information. Again, things come off
pretty easily, and what is more important is putting it all together correctly...

...the two sprockets and chain come off a little easier as a unit.

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With the Chain and Sprockets out of the way, you can get at the Pump.

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This component is responsible for more Transfer Case Failures than any other part.

(See the pointed part to the right, it has a tendency to wear the case sometimes and jump out of position. Then the
arm spins and wreaks havoc. Usually the driver will only be able to get either reverse or Low-4.)

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There is a fix for this which I will cover later. Right now I'll leave it there and finish up the teardown next time...

Best regards,
George

 

[SDEconVan]

E4OD Fluid Levels on the Dipstick

Possibly found some useful information on the fluid level in the E4OD. The level seems to like being at the
rail line of the Pan/Case interface. (I only found this quote from a Ford Tech one time out of many searches.)

Also, in general (already knew this,) you just keep pumping in ATF until the stuff starts gushing, then stop.
The mentality is, "You can't overfill an E4OD" which, because of the case design is pretty much true. Still, I
wanted to find where this sweet spot was for the transmission, and it looks like the Dipstick Tube will be
lengthened using a section of the old C6 Tube, which in effect shortens the Stick/Wire so it sticks
out less (the middle of the "Hi/Low" range on the Stick is at the seam of the Pan/Case.)

**********************************************
Borg-Warner 1356 Transfer Case Teardown (cont.)

It is best to disassemble the Pump in order to remove it,

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As you take the (4) 8mm bolts out hold the Pump together because there are two pistons and a spring inside
just waiting to jump out and surprise you

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Notice the Pump Body parts are stamped with orientation on them "TOP" "REAR" etc.

Carefully taking the lid off the Pump whilst still on the Output Shaft,

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Will reveal the two Pistons (note their positioning, personally I take a ****-ton of photos, most of what you see
here is for my own personal benefit, but I want to share some.) The Spring is in-between the Pistons. The bore
for the pistons and spring goes diametrically through the Output Shaft.

Notice the center bore of the Body is eccentric to the Output Shaft, which causes the Pistons to reciprocate.

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The complete transfer case rebuild kits have these hard parts for replacement.

Now the Output Shaft can come out,

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Looks a bit worn, glad I opted for the complete kit (it has this bushing...)

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Shift Support Shaft slides right out,

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Rotate the Range Shift Fork CCW to disengage from the Shift Plate (that darker piece of metal to the left.)

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Have a look at the wear. The places to look are on the plastic pieces of the Fork, and the lip of the Range
Gear. If the plastic pieces are worn unevenly this could mean the Fork is bent, replace (20-25 bucks.)

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The photo makes the wear look worse than it is on the Range Gear Lip, the outer edge is the place of interest.

Seal replacement is mandatory. It's okay if the old ones get wrecked trying to get them out. Surprised the
seals on this case came out pretty easily...

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(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

Borg-Warner 1356 Transfer Case Teardown (cont.)

With the seal out, another Circlip is removed. This one is pretty deep in the case but as
I've said, a good pair of Snap Ring Pliers goes a long way.

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I got these Snap Ons years ago for about 30 bucks, they've been very useful over the years.

You'll know the clip is off, because the Planetary which once accommodated that clip will drop away...

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Have a rag underneath to cushion the impact of the Planet with the work surface...

Planet is out, inspect. Ring Gear is seen still in the case,

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Large Snap Ring is removed as is the Ring Gear,

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(You can barely make out the screw driver at the bottom)

Final cog is removed,

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This will expose the bare case, with access to the bearing behind the Gears.

Now, we "shift" our attention... (couldn't help it...)
to removing the Shift Detent Plate,

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Pretty sure if you did this just wrong you should be able to take your own eye out, it's under a little
bit of tension...

The spring has a little roller spool on the end, DON'T LOSE IT.

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The Shift Plate itself is held in with two fasteners, an "E" clip on the pivot shaft, and an Allen Grub
Screw on the back side of the Plate.

E-clip can be spun around to your favor with a screwdriver, it is NOT a high-tension clip. Just use
two screwdrivers on either side of the "E" to push it off the pivot,

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"...a screwdriver in each hand, with your third hand push the clip off..."

I used a 1/8" allen key from the outside (Reverse Sensor bore) to loosen the Grub Screw,

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This is what that Grub Screw looks like, also notice the annular groove for the E-Clip...

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(to be continued...)

Best regards,
George

 

[SDEconVan]

Borg-Warner 1356 Transfer Case Teardown (cont.)

Bearings and seals are all that remains in the case halves...

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Seals are easy, since all of them are to be replaced, the old ones can get destroyed on the way out.

The larger bearings were fairly easy, I noticed three types were used:

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Japanese

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German

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USA

As a note, the replacements were advertised as "top quality" bearings,

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"Umm, so Who won the war again?"

Anyways, I've not had too many failures of the three sourced bearings above, but I must take the time
to say that I have seen Chinese and a couple other sources completely NOT WORK, so do take note of
your purchasing habits if the E4OD/BW1356 effort is for yourself or not...

***************

Okay, now for the interesting stuff. Magnesium is light, pretty strong and very brittle, in other words
don't expect it to bend too much and let you beat it back to shape with a hammer...

...with this in mind when using a Puller to remove the Needle Bearings, be very aware of not damaging
the case halves.

With this in mind I used my tried-and-true puller,

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The needle bearing (for the Front Output Shaft,) wouldn't budge, even after shocking the bearing land,
and even after a little propane heat and cryo spray were used.

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I have a slide hammer that can attach to the puller arms but wanted to try one other thing. I noticed there
was a drainage slot (or maybe Ford engineers knew?) in the bore for the Needle Bearing,

this gave enough room so the bearing could get cut, but the case wouldn't.

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Dremel tool and my HF (China) 10 dollar diamond bits to the rescue...
NOTE: the marring from the Puller Feet as I tried a bunch of ways to get the Needle Bearing out.

Once cut, the NB came out with a breeze,

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Oh, before I cut the bearing race, I had to "extract" the cage and rollers:

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The cage is VERY BRITTLE metal, it will crumble once you can get your pick up under the edge of the cage.

(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

Borg-Warner 1356 Transfer Case Teardown (cont.)

I felt fortunate that I didn't lose my cool and ruin the thing:

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My last resort would have been the slide hammer. Now I could clean out the case halves:

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I used my concoction/method of Grease/Wax Remover and Carb Cleaner, alternating chems.
Thought about running it through my blast cabinet but the parts were pretty clean. The parts
on this build have been pretty clean, that is pretty rare as evidenced by my previous projects...

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*****************SLIP YOKE ELIMINATOR****************
I'm planning on running output flanges so I can use some double-Cardan joints on the driveshafts.
This will provide a smoother operating and more robust driveline once the diesel gets dialed in a bit.

As many probably know there are not too many flanges available for the BW1356, maybe if you came
across a Bronco Transfer Case or a 1345, but the 1356 is quite strong and durable when set up right.

After I ran the job by a couple local machinists, (turn off the yokes on a lathe, purchase SuperDuty flanges,
and weld them on, then turn the mating surfaces of the flange,) but it was a bit steep.

There WAS a place in Phoenix that used to do it but the owner was out of sorts and could not produce the
work quickly. By luck I found another Driveline Shop took his tooling over and set up shop about a mile
away. Price was about a hundred bucks more, but still it was less than my local guys could do it for.

*not sure if I can mention Vendors I am not affiliated with on this forum, so out of respect I will refrain unless
requested by anybody curious about it.

<edit: ok, here is his info: >

Arizona Drivetrain Service
attn: Brian
3615 South Central Avenue
Phoenix, AZ 85040
(602) 253-8006

(tell him, George from the internet sent you...)

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I sent it out on a Thursday and got it back the following Wednesday, which IMO is exceptionally quick. The new
owner said that was his main goal, to turn-around in a decent amount of time. (Interesting guy, likes to take...
...very... ...looooong... ...pauses on the phone, but I bit my tongue and we got it done!

Doing flanges (slip yoke eliminator for the rear,) is not for the faint of heart. Part of the task requires drilling
and tapping the end of the Output Shaft, but the good part is the tap is larger (7/16-20) which don't break
as easy

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Excellent welds especially since a Stick Welder was used for better penetration. Recommend knocking the slag
off if you have the time though...

Front Output must have the land unaffected so the dust shield can still seat properly,

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It was a pleasant relief to see everything done correctly, especially when working with someone "new" on your
stuff. He gets a "Passing Grade" so far (lining up some other stuff from him in the future...)

NOW, I prepped the Output Shaft for the new Retainer Bolt,

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Got the 25/64 bit and 7/16-20 tap ready...

...my deal is to clamp the piece to the bench really well, straight and level, then use a good cordless 1/2 drill to
do the deed:

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There is an existing pilot hole in the shaft, about 5/16, so the drilling actually goes pretty fast.

I went with a total depth (just the Output Shaft itself,) of just over 1"

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NOTE: the center of the drilled hole is deeper (because of the point of the twist drill.)

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You can just make out the threads (lower right,) they came out good, again the larger taps are easier, just use
lube and never go more than 1/2 turn each tap cut.

Hoping to start the assembly process next time!

Best regards,
George

 

[laserjock]

I've been watching this thread and I don't know if it's been discussed yet (didn't see it anywhere), but I would nominate this for the tech articles section once it's completed. This has been an awesome journey through the belly of the beast. VERY WELL documented.

 

[SDEconVan]

Hey Laserjock, thanks man, I post stuff with the hopes that members will point things out and give their 2 cents worth,
some things I've got experience with, and obviously other things are uncharted territory. Also if anyone could find these
posts useful somehow then they've served a purpose beyond my own doings... "Belly of the Beast" well put...

******************BW 1356 Rebuild*******************

Spent a bit of time waiting on parts, meanwhile I got some paint on the case halves:

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(Transfer Case is upside down)
Note the rear half is darker, this is because this particular model of Borg-Warner 1356 has an aluminum front half and a
magnesium rear half. Turns out that it is a PTO version (Power Take Off,) which provides gear-driven accessories to be driven from
the Passenger's Side of the Transfer Case...

...These PTO 1356 cases were found on certain models of Ford F-350 diesels, there are not a ton of them around. They can be
pretty useful for certain tasks.

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Here is a better view inside that Hatch on the Passenger's Side, note the driving gear. The hatch cover is removed then
a gear-driven implement is bolted in place. Trying to visualize my 4x4 van running some farm equipment
(but maybe I might run something off of it whilst travelling through Baja...)

Anyways, the key to good paint is to prep the surface really well. I had a couple evenings available as I was waiting on
parts so I spent the time to get things real clean... ...I have a large Blast Cabinet but didn't want to run these parts

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This is Wax and Grease Remover that auto painters use. I alternate between it and carb cleaner. By the way I noticed
our local NAPA has had their shop brand cleaner for only a buck-ninety-nine as well as purple cleaner for the same price.
I grabbed me a few!

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Everyone has their method, colors, and reasons for painting, if any. My reason is to make the unit easy to clean. The paint
used is spray can from the auto store, high temp aluminum cast color, and that is followed by a high heat gloss clear coat.
I find this combo takes a pressure washing really well and it can look nice for a long while. I think the paint is super durable
because of the clear and because the surface prep.

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and yes, from this point, onward, you tend to treat the parts a little nicer (actually it made them much easier to work with!)

Next session, I got some of the seals put in, starting with the Shift Shaft,

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There is an RTV specifically for transmission cases, it works well for seals too, or you can use the sticky Permatex High-Tack
sealant (which is gas-proof, and pretty good against the solvents used in ATF.)

Basic hand tools: socket used to push the Shaft Seal in place (went easily)

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Assemble the Shift Shaft and Detent Plate

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E-Clip goes on a lot easier than it comes off...

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And let us not forget to tighten the set-screw. You could use some thread locker on it but honestly it felt pretty
darn set, if you ask me...

(to be continued...)

Best regards,
George

 

[SDEconVan]

--

 

[SDEconVan]

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

With the Shift Shaft and Detent installed, the roller bearings and needle bearings go in next.

Starting with the easiest bearing:

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The Rear Output bearing is a simple push fit, it goes into the rear case half.

The next roller bearing is the Front Output:

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The outer race needs a little tapping but the bearing will seat with a distinct sharper
sound when using a soft (wood or brass) drift pin. After that, the Front Case half gets
a snap ring to secure the bearing.

Slide the Front Output Shaft into place, check for correct fit:

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The shaft is a hand slide fit.

Next is the Main Output of the rear case half:

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Notice the open section of the Snap Ring coincides with the drain groove in the case.

Now for the challenging bearings...

The Needle Bearings are DELICATE in the BW1356. If installed WRONG they will look fine but they WILL FAIL!

There are TWO Needle Bearings and in BOTH CASES incorrect installation can ruin the whole effort. The CORRECT way
to install (with simple hand tools, like I did,) the Needle Bearings has to do with WHERE you contact the Outer Bearing Race.

First, the Needle Bearing for the Front Output Shaft gets installed in the Rear Case half:

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Note how THIN wall thickness the Outer Race is, in particular that THIN little lip!

If you accidentally smash that THIN little lip, that lip will squeeze down upon the Inner Race and Needles. EVEN IF YOU USE
A LARGE DIAMETER TOOL YOU RUN THE RISK OF EVENLY SMASHING DOWN THE THIN LITTLE LIP. THINGS WILL LOOK FINE
BUT THE INNER RACE WILL NOT MOVE FREELY. (This is a failure mode!)

So, ideally you would contact the Needle Bearing Outer Race along its' OUTERMOST edge as you GENTLY tap it home. (Gently
because a hard hit can "dent" the race!) Take your time and use the right sized drift.

In my case I had an impact socket that fit snug in the actual bearing:

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Even with that, I tapped it VERY gently, taking a long time to get the bearing seated. It might be worth heating your case with
a heat gun to open it up a bit, and put the bearing in the freezer for a couple of hours- seriously. You DON'T want any damage
to this little guy...

(...even with my good-fitting socket, I was concerned about the tiny chamfer the socket has, ideally the socket or pipe section or
other drift pin tool would be pretty sharp-edged, think "max diameter.")

This Needle Bearing is the harder of the two, it has NO bottom, but the other Needle Bearing has a bottom to it which helps a lot:

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NO!!!!!

(doing this can distort the bearings' bottom, distorting it like a trampoline!)

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YES!

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Very YES! (I lucked out with a perfect fitting socket)

This Needle Bearing goes inside the Planetary Gear Carrier.

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And there is the Needle Bearing driven way down inside the Planetary. Note there is a TINY lip that the Needle Bearing Race will
hit, BUT DON'T DEPEND ON HITTING IT AND GETTING A RESPONSE BACK!!! Better to know about how far down it goes, flip
it over, check with a light, and keep going that way until it is home.

(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

I might as well cover the bushing too. There is a bushing which works with the Needle Bearing that is in the Planetary
Gear Carrier. The bushing is an interference fit into the Planet AFTER the Needle Bearing goes in.

PROBLEM is that bushing is SUPER SOFT, and if you tap it in too hard it can get squeezed by the Planet and the inside
diameter can neck down, preventing the Output Shaft from being inserted into the Planetary Carrier.

Again, go SLOW and go GENTLE. Use a drift which fits the max diameter, NEVER a drift pin or punch, the metal will
squeeze inward!!!

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Note also, there is the tiniest of little lips for the Bushing to hit against, BUT if you even tap one to many times to seat
the Bushing, the Busing could possibly squeeze inwards, preventing the Output Shaft, which is supposed to go all the
way through the Planetary Bushing and into the Needle Bearing, from going in all the way... ...you can even come up
1/32nd inch short of seating the Bushing and it is worth it. The Bushing should ride just below the flush surface of
the Planet.

NOW, you can start putting hard parts back into the case. Working with the Front Half:

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The PTO Gear is just set loosely on the Roller Bearing.

The shafting will line the PTO up:

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The Planetary Carrier with Needle Bearing and Bushing is ready to install. Also, install the outer Ring Gear into the cog
teeth of the case.

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Note, the Snap Ring that secures the Ring Gear has its' opening at 6 o'clock,

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The moment of truth.

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If the Output Shaft inserts, then you did everything right. If there is a bind or there is no way the Output is going in,
then you blew it. You didn't heed the warnings- get another Bushing.

With the Planetary in place, flip the case half over (whilst providing support the keep the Planetary from falling out,)
and put the Circlip onto the snout:

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Ok, once you get past that point and parts are moving without any binding, the Spring for the Detent goes in:

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I staked the spring into the slot of the case, then sort of set it into the cradle pins that will hold it, the used a Vice
Grip to get the other end into the Detent Plate. I made sure to have that spool/collar piece on the end of the spring!

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Check the action of the Shift Lever against the Detent Position:

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That's it for now, coming soon, the Pump Assembly....

Best regards,
George

 

[SDEconVan]

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************
Range Fork and Range Gear go in next

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Turned out that I found significant flaws with the existing Range Gear. The marks on the wear surfaces were
right at the contact point of the plastic guides on the Range Fork. (This made sense because the old plastic
guides were badly worn on one side)

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Old on is on the right, notice the lower rub surface is worn quite a bit. This was due most likely to the Range
Gear, which has a metal lip the plastic guide rides upon:

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Upon closer inspection the surface was found to be pretty rough, which wore the plastic guides down pretty
fast (transfer case was rebuilt not too long ago...)

Another Range Gear was ordered,

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Old one on the right. New one set me back 38 smackers!

And even brand new I found tiny flaws that needed the attention of my fine file:

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That little burr is enough to kill the plastic guide- It is worth your while to inspect all wear surfaces!

Finally the Fork and Gear go in as a unit, rotating clockwise into place to engage the shift detent:

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The Support Shaft then slides into place to hold the Fork in position.

Fluid Pump goes in next. Rebuild kits supply the entire body and hard parts, they are embossed with labels:

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It's hard to get the parts wrong as long as you know which way is forward and up with your Transfer Case!

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"If you don't know what this is, then you have no business being here..."

With first Pump Plate in place, the Pistons and Spring are put into position:

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Note the flat spots on the Piston pieces, they go together with the pump body one way only...

The Pump Body itself goes on by squeezing the Pistons by hand and sliding the Body over them:

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The Spring provides enough pressure to hold the Pump Body in position. Note the orientation of
the Pump pick-up.

(Continued...)

 

[79jasper]

Before you get it all back together.
Look into fixing the pump "locator."
Yours seems to have wear, so beings as you have it apart, may as well take care of it.

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Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[SDEconVan]

******************BW 1356 Rebuild (cont.)*******************

<edit> Thanks 79Jasper! Was typing out what I did while you posted the heads up! Got it done.

*******************

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The lid goes on along with the Pump Retainer. Note how the Retainer is supposed to be
contained by the notch in the case. As said before, this part is the main cause for failures
of the transfer case...

...the Retainer can "jump the tracks" and start spinning, taking out vital parts with it. The
driver will only be able to get 4-Low.

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There is a mod for this, it has been covered on other websites, and warrants mention here:

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A 1" long, 1/4" dia piece of metal rod is welded to the end of the Retainer. This spreads the
kick load preventing premature cutting into the case, and tightens the tolerance of the gap
between the rod and the case.

A word of WARNING though, is to NOT make the gap too tight. This is bad. The pump body
is designed to "float" and will wobble a bit. Also, it is difficult to tell the exact angle of the
final position of the Output Shaft to the Pump Retainer. That is, you can pull back on the
Output Shaft and create a larger gap between the Retainer and the Case, OR you can push
the Output Shaft and shrink the gap. It is the second case that you should design around...

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This is "ghetto" but it works, the gap is smallest and this is to ensure the Retainer is free in
motion yet will not jump out of the notch in the case... ...this was for a quick tack weld with
my TIG, then the part was removed for proper welding...

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Some filing was needed to get an even "footprint" of the Rod onto the Case

The reversal was also checked:

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Once everything was okay the 8mm Pump Body bolts were tighted to 40 in-lbs.

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By the way here is a source for the Torque Specs on the Borg-Warner 1356:

http://www.forddriver.ru/storage/51.pdf

(Scroll down toward the bottom)

That's it for now but more on the way!

Best regards,
George

 

[79jasper]

Good deal.

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