reklund
Full Access Member
Oh man, you SOLD an FJ55? I have a HUGE soft spot for old Toyotas (I'm a field engineer of sorts for Toyota). Good work as usual!
1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!
- Thread starter SDEconVan
- Start date
Hi Laserjock,
Yeah the speedos are not super accurate, so when I put larger tires on, it even throws things off further! ha!
I measure the rolling diameter as center of the axle straight down to the ground and double that number. You
are correct, the tire could run flat like a tank tread, but the amount of distance it takes to process that tank tread
one cycle, stays the same. That's the circumferential distance. Thanks for pointing that out!
Hi Trackspeeder,
You are correct sir! I cannot express in words how important it is to check your work- this is made even worse
if you DO NOT DO THIS EVERY DAY for a living or hobby.
I appreciate the props!
Hi Reklund,
Yep, it broke my heart to sell my '75 FJ55. I still have the two candidate turbo diesels for it (a Cummins 4bt and
Isuzu 4bd-2tc.) The guy flew all the way out from Tennessee to buy it, didn't even wait to turn it over and hear
it run, and didn't even haggle the price, just handed my money, THEN looked it over...
Here's a pic from a few years ago:
(the electric rear window even worked!)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install**********************
Been spending a lot of time figuring the wiring and how to install the systems that support the E4OD. I have taken
a lot of pics of the process and will post the supporting equipment on this thread soon.
Until then, I am finally ready to get the Transmission over to the site. If you recall, I had to "fix" a problem with
the assembly sequence and part orientation which kept stalling my completing the buttoning-up of the internals.
I also rebuilt the BW 1356 and modified it to suit the plans for my ClubWagon.
Now I am back to finishing up the E4OD:
I set the Torque Converter onto the Front Pump for the final time. 3 distinct thumps/movements on the way down. It's a
good idea to put the tranny vertical for this (trans should be vert anyways from the prior assembly.) If not, the TC might
not go on all the way (false seating,) and much sadness will occur.
To keep the Torque Converter in place, I used a 7/16" end wrench bolted to Lower Cover fastener holes. That size wrench
just seems to do it right. I used a little shipping end cap I got off one of the cooler parts I got. The 7/16" wrench just
barely contacts the TC.
Pan was next. *I know this will alarm a few members on here, but bear with me on why I chose a large capacity pan.
When I worked in the U.S. Space Program we had a cooling system similar to the one in this transmission. As we built
more complex/larger versions of the rocket, we had to increase the capabilities of the cooling. One of several things was
increase the fluid volume to counter hysteresis effects. (Hysteresis is basically feedback, and the scenario for our
Overheat Condition, is a large, single cycle which we are wanting to expand, larger to get more time in the cycle.)
On the rockets, just like the trucks, it is a one-shot deal to avoid the overheat scenario.
Cooling: I did not choose this pan for better cooling- that's what the advertisements pitch. The main reason is TO BUY TIME.
The two times I've seen transmissions burn up were while under sustained load. In the middle of nowhere, another country,
over 110F air, with surface temps much higher. In one case the driver did not even know the overheating had started, then
it was too late. In the second case we saw the gauge get pegged, but again it was too late, temps were probably close to 300F.
My thinking is to get an extra 3-5 minutes of time BEFORE critical temp is reached. This gives me time to take smart action,
then idle down, do the manual override on the cooling fans (more on that at a later time,) and bring temps back within
service range.
It's kind of like trying to boil 2 quarts of water on your camp stove vs. 2 gallons, you'll get both to boil... ...eventually.
That said, the Derale pan I got has cooling tubes that work like convection tubes in a fireplace.
The only cooling advantage you are going to get is the increased surface area (of metal) to dump out heat. If air is blowing
on the metal, even better. Most ALL the time, the E4OD will not run very hot. My trans is not a drag racer, it's for long
hauls, on sustained grades with extreme ambient heat, and not necessarily heavy payloads.
Note the color of the Pan Bolts- It was my first attempt at Home Powdercoating, pretty easy once you get equipped right
Takes a wrench pretty good. I'm hoping they hold up better than the zinc/cad plating I did in the past, what a nightmare...
If interested in increasing the fluid volume of your transmission, you can swap the 4x2 pan for the 4x4 pan, which fits exactly the
same with the only difference being MORE VOLUME.
If interested in cooling the transmission, get an additional cooler element down stream of the stock unit. A stock cooler, well-maintained
in mild/cool climates will do well for many vehicles- it is heat that is the E4OD's main enemy
Of course, I knew I had some thread issues in the case. Out came the Heli-coil kit...
I've gotten pretty good with it, from discovery to tear-down to torqued on, was 20 minutes
Torque your Pan Bolts to 120 IN-lbs.
BTW, use an INCH-Pound wrench, the Foot-Pound ones are too low on their scale, and that's where all their inaccuracy is, in LOW torques.
Anyways, there's LOTS more stuff going on, I'm trying to filter it down into sections so I can make more sense of what it is I
am trying to do...
.
That's it for now.
Best regards,
George
Yeah the speedos are not super accurate, so when I put larger tires on, it even throws things off further! ha!
I measure the rolling diameter as center of the axle straight down to the ground and double that number. You
are correct, the tire could run flat like a tank tread, but the amount of distance it takes to process that tank tread
one cycle, stays the same. That's the circumferential distance. Thanks for pointing that out!
Hi Trackspeeder,
You are correct sir! I cannot express in words how important it is to check your work- this is made even worse
if you DO NOT DO THIS EVERY DAY for a living or hobby.
I appreciate the props!
Hi Reklund,
Yep, it broke my heart to sell my '75 FJ55. I still have the two candidate turbo diesels for it (a Cummins 4bt and
Isuzu 4bd-2tc.) The guy flew all the way out from Tennessee to buy it, didn't even wait to turn it over and hear
it run, and didn't even haggle the price, just handed my money, THEN looked it over...
Here's a pic from a few years ago:
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
(the electric rear window even worked!)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install**********************
Been spending a lot of time figuring the wiring and how to install the systems that support the E4OD. I have taken
a lot of pics of the process and will post the supporting equipment on this thread soon.
Until then, I am finally ready to get the Transmission over to the site. If you recall, I had to "fix" a problem with
the assembly sequence and part orientation which kept stalling my completing the buttoning-up of the internals.
I also rebuilt the BW 1356 and modified it to suit the plans for my ClubWagon.
Now I am back to finishing up the E4OD:
You must be registered for see images attach
I set the Torque Converter onto the Front Pump for the final time. 3 distinct thumps/movements on the way down. It's a
good idea to put the tranny vertical for this (trans should be vert anyways from the prior assembly.) If not, the TC might
not go on all the way (false seating,) and much sadness will occur.
You must be registered for see images attach
To keep the Torque Converter in place, I used a 7/16" end wrench bolted to Lower Cover fastener holes. That size wrench
just seems to do it right. I used a little shipping end cap I got off one of the cooler parts I got. The 7/16" wrench just
barely contacts the TC.
Pan was next. *I know this will alarm a few members on here, but bear with me on why I chose a large capacity pan.
When I worked in the U.S. Space Program we had a cooling system similar to the one in this transmission. As we built
more complex/larger versions of the rocket, we had to increase the capabilities of the cooling. One of several things was
increase the fluid volume to counter hysteresis effects. (Hysteresis is basically feedback, and the scenario for our
Overheat Condition, is a large, single cycle which we are wanting to expand, larger to get more time in the cycle.)
On the rockets, just like the trucks, it is a one-shot deal to avoid the overheat scenario.
Cooling: I did not choose this pan for better cooling- that's what the advertisements pitch. The main reason is TO BUY TIME.
The two times I've seen transmissions burn up were while under sustained load. In the middle of nowhere, another country,
over 110F air, with surface temps much higher. In one case the driver did not even know the overheating had started, then
it was too late. In the second case we saw the gauge get pegged, but again it was too late, temps were probably close to 300F.
My thinking is to get an extra 3-5 minutes of time BEFORE critical temp is reached. This gives me time to take smart action,
then idle down, do the manual override on the cooling fans (more on that at a later time,) and bring temps back within
service range.
It's kind of like trying to boil 2 quarts of water on your camp stove vs. 2 gallons, you'll get both to boil... ...eventually.
That said, the Derale pan I got has cooling tubes that work like convection tubes in a fireplace.
You must be registered for see images attach
The only cooling advantage you are going to get is the increased surface area (of metal) to dump out heat. If air is blowing
on the metal, even better. Most ALL the time, the E4OD will not run very hot. My trans is not a drag racer, it's for long
hauls, on sustained grades with extreme ambient heat, and not necessarily heavy payloads.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Note the color of the Pan Bolts- It was my first attempt at Home Powdercoating, pretty easy once you get equipped right
Takes a wrench pretty good. I'm hoping they hold up better than the zinc/cad plating I did in the past, what a nightmare...
If interested in increasing the fluid volume of your transmission, you can swap the 4x2 pan for the 4x4 pan, which fits exactly the
same with the only difference being MORE VOLUME.
If interested in cooling the transmission, get an additional cooler element down stream of the stock unit. A stock cooler, well-maintained
in mild/cool climates will do well for many vehicles- it is heat that is the E4OD's main enemy
Of course, I knew I had some thread issues in the case. Out came the Heli-coil kit...
You must be registered for see images attach
I've gotten pretty good with it, from discovery to tear-down to torqued on, was 20 minutes
Torque your Pan Bolts to 120 IN-lbs.
You must be registered for see images attach
BTW, use an INCH-Pound wrench, the Foot-Pound ones are too low on their scale, and that's where all their inaccuracy is, in LOW torques.
Anyways, there's LOTS more stuff going on, I'm trying to filter it down into sections so I can make more sense of what it is I
am trying to do...
.
You must be registered for see images attach
That's it for now.
Best regards,
George
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install (Cont.)**********************
Brought the sub-assemblies over to the site:
Had to load the E4OD by myself, by luck I had the tranny jack to bring the thing up to bed level.
Once I got one end in, I shoved it into my daily driver... (those things are kinda heavy!)
Thankfully, one of my employees was at the shop on the weekend, with two guys, it's much easier
to place the E4OD,
at an angle on the Tranny Jack, the Pan has a deep channel the jack adapter could have fallen into...
...maneuvers easy now, if you're doing this alone.
Had to get the Crank Bolts sealed up as good as I can,
Which meant I had the use solvent to clean the bolts and holes, BUT I could only do ONE at a time.
(None of them leaked as I pulled them,)
Use a good torque wrench to get to spec,
47 Ft-Lb.
"Get it done and done right and done right now..." quote from one of my old workplaces. ha
*but it's important to set yourself up as good as you can for the E4OD install. This re-seal
effort had to be done. Most trucks would not probably need it.
I have a bus jack from decades ago doing off-road rigs (lifted, needing more height.)
Pretty much gets the front of the 6,000+ lb van off the ground with almost no effort...
Got the Trans rolled under on the trans jack all in one piece. (thought I might have to slide
E4OD by itself, then assemble, but the bus jack is a real saver, HF item I saw they don't sell
any more...)
Getting into position:
Really like how the vans have so much work around room (at least between the Eng/Trans)
This shot didn't come out so good, but the shiny object is the 7/16" box end wrench keeping the
Torque Converter in place. Now it was time to remove it and (quickly) slide the E4OD forward
so the Torque Converter Bolts hit the Flywheel/FlexPlate,
The Torque Converter spins free (or should,) so you can align its' studs to the Flywheel. Then
continue on the mating sequence...
(cont.)
Brought the sub-assemblies over to the site:
You must be registered for see images attach
Had to load the E4OD by myself, by luck I had the tranny jack to bring the thing up to bed level.
Once I got one end in, I shoved it into my daily driver... (those things are kinda heavy!
)Thankfully, one of my employees was at the shop on the weekend, with two guys, it's much easier
to place the E4OD,
You must be registered for see images attach
at an angle on the Tranny Jack, the Pan has a deep channel the jack adapter could have fallen into...
...maneuvers easy now, if you're doing this alone.
Had to get the Crank Bolts sealed up as good as I can,
You must be registered for see images attach
Which meant I had the use solvent to clean the bolts and holes, BUT I could only do ONE at a time.
(None of them leaked as I pulled them,)
Use a good torque wrench to get to spec,
You must be registered for see images attach
47 Ft-Lb.
You must be registered for see images attach
"Get it done and done right and done right now..." quote from one of my old workplaces. ha
*but it's important to set yourself up as good as you can for the E4OD install. This re-seal
effort had to be done. Most trucks would not probably need it.
I have a bus jack from decades ago doing off-road rigs (lifted, needing more height.)
You must be registered for see images attach
Pretty much gets the front of the 6,000+ lb van off the ground with almost no effort...
You must be registered for see images attach
Got the Trans rolled under on the trans jack all in one piece. (thought I might have to slide
E4OD by itself, then assemble, but the bus jack is a real saver, HF item I saw they don't sell
any more...)
Getting into position:
You must be registered for see images attach
Really like how the vans have so much work around room (at least between the Eng/Trans)
You must be registered for see images attach
This shot didn't come out so good, but the shiny object is the 7/16" box end wrench keeping the
Torque Converter in place. Now it was time to remove it and (quickly) slide the E4OD forward
so the Torque Converter Bolts hit the Flywheel/FlexPlate,
You must be registered for see images attach
The Torque Converter spins free (or should,) so you can align its' studs to the Flywheel. Then
continue on the mating sequence...
(cont.)
david85
Full Access Member
Makes me want to build another one but mine's still going fine. Its a real pleasure to see some of the fear and mystery around the E4OD being torn down by such a well detailed thread.
These really are great transmissions if you take your time and put it together right. Trust me, the moment that beast finds that extra gear on the highway will be a great feeling.
These really are great transmissions if you take your time and put it together right. Trust me, the moment that beast finds that extra gear on the highway will be a great feeling.
Hi David85,
MAN, WHERE WERE YOU WHEN I STARTED?!? (Just Kidding) I just watched your YouTube, and it is EXACTLY what
I need to see. You use the Shift Tables and OverDrive quite a bit, I set my switches about the same area.
Wondering,
which do you think you use more? (Might swap positions, one is in a good spot, the other so-so)
THANK YOU!
**********************
*(write up for those switches and lots more coming up on my Club Wagon thread, and also the HydroBoost thread,
just waiting on parts before jumping into it...)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT**********************
(Putting Trans in to find out the fit, and what mods would be needed.)
Reach in and lightly put the Torque Converter Nuts on...
...also, right before putting nuts on, check Torque Converter for free movement. It should "clack" back and forth freely,
the studs hitting the sides of the fastener holes in the Flex Plate. IF IT BINDS, STOP. Pull back and check.
I thought I would draw the E4OD toward the 6.9L Block using the bolts between them, but instead (being cautious,) I just
used my fingers to tighten them, starting with the top two. I kept them tight with fingers, then on my creeper, went back and
(forcefully) wiggled the tail end of the E4OD, mostly in the direction which would make the gap smaller (gap was not even,
trans too high, then too low, left/right, etc.)
Surprisingly, there came a point where the E4OD slid on easily the last 3/8" or so. Then I got all six of the bolts in and cinched
them down lightly with the socket wrench (NO torque for the test fitting.) The fact that it slid together was a big relief, binding
is dangerous territory, avoid when you can, unless you REALLY KNOW ALL YOUR STUFF>)
I checked around for interference,
and interference I found. This view is the arch at the very rear of the Dog House (engine cover) which acts as a floor stiffener.
Notice the contact at 3 points. Furthest fin over has excess material hitting the Arch, the center one and the nearest ones all
hit.
Furthest Fin over (Driver's side)
Now,
I could just say "screw it, git 'er dunnn" but the back of the Transfer Case will be plowing Earth and in Kalifa-fornia they'd arrest
me, so I want to raise the REAR of the Transfer Case about an inch from its' present "maxed out" position.
Transfer Case could go up another 3/4 to 1 inch...
But the Arch and a couple of the fins/webs on the E4OD are preventing it, so...
...it was time to pull the tranny and start cuttin'
Left and Right webs need a slight trim. Both are "excess flashing" so no structure was compromised.
Just trimming the webs would allow about 1/2" upward movement at the back end of trans.
That said, this number is with the E4OD IN CONTACT with the chassis- which is a "no-go" for me, I want at least
1/4" of gap in resting position.
5 minutes with the air saw. 16 gauge cuts like warm butter...
...and tacking back in 3/4" higher,
(MIG welding upside down is such a joy...)
(cont.)
MAN, WHERE WERE YOU WHEN I STARTED?!? (Just Kidding) I just watched your YouTube, and it is EXACTLY what
I need to see. You use the Shift Tables and OverDrive quite a bit, I set my switches about the same area.
You must be registered for see images attach
Wondering,
which do you think you use more? (Might swap positions, one is in a good spot, the other so-so)
THANK YOU!
**********************
*(write up for those switches and lots more coming up on my Club Wagon thread, and also the HydroBoost thread,
just waiting on parts before jumping into it...)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT**********************
(Putting Trans in to find out the fit, and what mods would be needed.)
Reach in and lightly put the Torque Converter Nuts on...
You must be registered for see images attach
...also, right before putting nuts on, check Torque Converter for free movement. It should "clack" back and forth freely,
the studs hitting the sides of the fastener holes in the Flex Plate. IF IT BINDS, STOP. Pull back and check.
I thought I would draw the E4OD toward the 6.9L Block using the bolts between them, but instead (being cautious,) I just
used my fingers to tighten them, starting with the top two. I kept them tight with fingers, then on my creeper, went back and
(forcefully) wiggled the tail end of the E4OD, mostly in the direction which would make the gap smaller (gap was not even,
trans too high, then too low, left/right, etc.)
You must be registered for see images attach
Surprisingly, there came a point where the E4OD slid on easily the last 3/8" or so. Then I got all six of the bolts in and cinched
them down lightly with the socket wrench (NO torque for the test fitting.) The fact that it slid together was a big relief, binding
is dangerous territory, avoid when you can, unless you REALLY KNOW ALL YOUR STUFF>)
I checked around for interference,
You must be registered for see images attach
and interference I found. This view is the arch at the very rear of the Dog House (engine cover) which acts as a floor stiffener.
Notice the contact at 3 points. Furthest fin over has excess material hitting the Arch, the center one and the nearest ones all
hit.
You must be registered for see images attach
Furthest Fin over (Driver's side)
Now,
I could just say "screw it, git 'er dunnn" but the back of the Transfer Case will be plowing Earth and in Kalifa-fornia they'd arrest
me, so I want to raise the REAR of the Transfer Case about an inch from its' present "maxed out" position.
You must be registered for see images attach
Transfer Case could go up another 3/4 to 1 inch...
But the Arch and a couple of the fins/webs on the E4OD are preventing it, so...
...it was time to pull the tranny and start cuttin'
You must be registered for see images attach
Left and Right webs need a slight trim. Both are "excess flashing" so no structure was compromised.
You must be registered for see images attach
Just trimming the webs would allow about 1/2" upward movement at the back end of trans.
That said, this number is with the E4OD IN CONTACT with the chassis-
which is a "no-go" for me, I want at least1/4" of gap in resting position.
You must be registered for see images attach
5 minutes with the air saw. 16 gauge cuts like warm butter...
...and tacking back in 3/4" higher,
You must be registered for see images attach
(MIG welding upside down is such a joy...
)(cont.)
david85
Full Access Member
Your build already has many improvements on what I did. Not knowing how tight I could get the reverse clutch pack, I left it stock so my park to reverse transition can take up to 1 full second. Drive to reverse is about half. The AOD in my F150 is in gear instantly no matter the condition. The only real alteration I made to the clutch packs was the overdrive clutch pack which went from 2 to 3 frictions. I'm wishing I did that to other cluch packs because my 3-4 shift is always the quickest and cleanest...which is good considering how often it gets used with such tall gearing.
To your question about which I use more often, I'm probably using the shift table more. Mainly because I can change how the converter locks up in addition to pushing overdrive higher in the speed range. Its easier to just program it such that the converter unlocks to give me a bit more RPM on the 5% hills north of 70 MPH, but I can get nearly the same RPM with 3rd gear and the converter locked. It takes a bit more programming to get it working smoothly, but well worth it. Less power/torque is sapped by the converter and the transmission runs cooler.
To your question about which I use more often, I'm probably using the shift table more. Mainly because I can change how the converter locks up in addition to pushing overdrive higher in the speed range. Its easier to just program it such that the converter unlocks to give me a bit more RPM on the 5% hills north of 70 MPH, but I can get nearly the same RPM with 3rd gear and the converter locked. It takes a bit more programming to get it working smoothly, but well worth it. Less power/torque is sapped by the converter and the transmission runs cooler.
Very helpful David85, thanks again.
I watched parts of your video a few times, and it is a very good way to better understand the versatility of
the stand alone Trans Controller. Because mine is a recent edition, it is not called a Baumannator,
but instead it's a "Quick 1" by US Shift. The things you describe are exactly what I am seeing
available on mine, so they must be the same unit, 2 shift tables, programmable shift points both
up and down, plus a lot more.
This is mine, just right of the Column, USB port access on the right side...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGEUJ28ra1Y
It's great that you annotated your video, I could correlate your actions with gauge outputs. BTW, the
speedo threw me for a sec, "SHOOT, He's going 112??!! that's one magic idi!!!"
I'm driving a van, but I plan to put a "factory" tach into it (Econolines didn't come with a tach)
and I have 3.55's rather than 3.08's, as I will have close to 34-35" tires. Mileage won't be as good,
but it will be interesting to see what I get, keeping in mind it's a 7 foot+ tall Brick...
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT**********************
I pressed the metal patch in place as I tacked the piece in, then kept filling the gaps,
Buffed the welds a bit.
I got the larger first piece in, 16 gauge is thicker so "longer spot welds" are possible without
too much overheat/burn through. Note the gaps on either side due to the upward-shift of the
piece. (I just used pieces from the 3/4" strips I cut away to make little patch strips, same gauge.)
Filled, buffed, ready for re-spray using New Ford Gray:
Sprayed out:
Let it dry and on to the next step.
I was getting closer to a good fit, so it was time to prep the Cross Member:
Research showed that the Chassis Width (in the area of the Cross Member,) stayed the same
over the years in the Econolines. So it was a matter of finding the Member that 1. had enough
"droop" and 2. would accommodate a BW 1356 Transfer Case (since NO Econoline came from
the factory with 4x4.)
I found that the E-450 Econoline for 2010 year fit perfectly. *there are companies like U-Joint
Offroad who sell a cross member for 265 plus ship, but if I can get a more stock-looking one,
delivered, for less than half, I'm going to try it.
Being 2010 'vintage' it shined up pretty good, ha ha.
Time to get the adapter on, spec was 30-40 Ft-lbs from what I could dig up.
Bought some Grade 8 Flange Head Hex bolts, better effective clamping force on alloys.
****************Another Fit Test***************
Now that I clear the Front Beam, I could swing the E4OD up higher to see how things
sit, and see what else I may need to clearance...
Plenty of clearance in the front zone that gave trouble before. Next step is to swing up the
Tranny/Transfer to see where it hits, then decide if I need to trim anything...
Here's a good example of getting more clearance. See the rear flange of the E4OD/BW1356
Adapter? That silver ring. Straight above it is a cross beam (with E-brake cable along it.)
I have about 1/4" of space between Adapter and Beam. I could leave it, the E4OD Pan Seam
line runs level with the Chassis that way. However I can tuck it up another inch by notching
out the Beam.
(*BTW, I am not too concerned about the exit angle of the E4OD output flange, because CV
(Double-Cardan) Joint is being used. This is more about gaining any clearance advantage.)
Right now I am thinking I am good, but will wait one more day before drilling the 4 holes to
attach the E-450 Cross Member to the Frame Rails of the chassis, which will set the height.
Holes are about half inch, diagonally opposed (17/32 bit)
Again, I'll have a fresh look at it again before committing.
Then the wiring, cooling, and shift linkages will be addressed...
Until next time.
Best regards,
George
I watched parts of your video a few times, and it is a very good way to better understand the versatility of
the stand alone Trans Controller. Because mine is a recent edition, it is not called a Baumannator,
but instead it's a "Quick 1" by US Shift. The things you describe are exactly what I am seeing
available on mine, so they must be the same unit, 2 shift tables, programmable shift points both
up and down, plus a lot more.
You must be registered for see images attach
This is mine, just right of the Column, USB port access on the right side...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGEUJ28ra1Y
It's great that you annotated your video, I could correlate your actions with gauge outputs. BTW, the
speedo threw me for a sec, "SHOOT, He's going 112??!! that's one magic idi!!!"
I'm driving a van, but I plan to put a "factory" tach into it (Econolines didn't come with a tach
)and I have 3.55's rather than 3.08's, as I will have close to 34-35" tires. Mileage won't be as good,
but it will be interesting to see what I get, keeping in mind it's a 7 foot+ tall Brick...
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT**********************
I pressed the metal patch in place as I tacked the piece in, then kept filling the gaps,
You must be registered for see images attach
Buffed the welds a bit.
I got the larger first piece in, 16 gauge is thicker so "longer spot welds" are possible without
too much overheat/burn through. Note the gaps on either side due to the upward-shift of the
piece. (I just used pieces from the 3/4" strips I cut away to make little patch strips, same gauge.)
Filled, buffed, ready for re-spray using New Ford Gray:
You must be registered for see images attach
Sprayed out:
You must be registered for see images attach
Let it dry and on to the next step.
I was getting closer to a good fit, so it was time to prep the Cross Member:
You must be registered for see images attach
Research showed that the Chassis Width (in the area of the Cross Member,) stayed the same
over the years in the Econolines. So it was a matter of finding the Member that 1. had enough
"droop" and 2. would accommodate a BW 1356 Transfer Case (since NO Econoline came from
the factory with 4x4.)
I found that the E-450 Econoline for 2010 year fit perfectly. *there are companies like U-Joint
Offroad who sell a cross member for 265 plus ship, but if I can get a more stock-looking one,
delivered, for less than half, I'm going to try it.
You must be registered for see images attach
Being 2010 'vintage' it shined up pretty good, ha ha.
You must be registered for see images attach
Time to get the adapter on, spec was 30-40 Ft-lbs from what I could dig up.
Bought some Grade 8 Flange Head Hex bolts, better effective clamping force on alloys.
****************Another Fit Test***************
Now that I clear the Front Beam, I could swing the E4OD up higher to see how things
sit, and see what else I may need to clearance...
You must be registered for see images attach
Plenty of clearance in the front zone that gave trouble before. Next step is to swing up the
Tranny/Transfer to see where it hits, then decide if I need to trim anything...
Here's a good example of getting more clearance. See the rear flange of the E4OD/BW1356
Adapter? That silver ring. Straight above it is a cross beam (with E-brake cable along it.)
You must be registered for see images attach
I have about 1/4" of space between Adapter and Beam. I could leave it, the E4OD Pan Seam
line runs level with the Chassis that way. However I can tuck it up another inch by notching
out the Beam.
(*BTW, I am not too concerned about the exit angle of the E4OD output flange, because CV
(Double-Cardan) Joint is being used. This is more about gaining any clearance advantage.)
Right now I am thinking I am good, but will wait one more day before drilling the 4 holes to
attach the E-450 Cross Member to the Frame Rails of the chassis, which will set the height.
You must be registered for see images attach
Holes are about half inch, diagonally opposed (17/32 bit)
Again, I'll have a fresh look at it again before committing.
Then the wiring, cooling, and shift linkages will be addressed...
Until next time.
Best regards,
George
Last edited:
trackspeeder
Stone crusher.
Change out the boost valve. This will help the delay issue. Sonnax and TransGo offer this part.
david85
Full Access Member
EconVan,
You laugh but I've already been up to 100 mph twice. Once years ago just to see if I could, and again more recently to get a stacked dodge cummins out of the way. He fogged me earlier when leaving the lake but what annoyed me was all the crap flying out of his boat once we got on the road. Chip bags, beer cans, etc. He tried to follow but lost his nerve in the corner. All in good fun. No doubt he was trying to figure out how an old rust bucket ford blew his doors off
Your trans controller is actually made by the same folks as my old baumannator so I have no doubt its a solid product. When I was first getting mine up and running, I talked to Karl Baumann a few times on the phone and he was always a pleasure to deal with. Whats really nice is they seem to have kept the price about the same even with some new features. If I ever drop a 6.9 in my F150, I'd have no reservations about using it.
Trackspeeder,
Its been so long that I can't even remember if I replaced that when I did mine. Probably not. I'm almost tempted to just keep an eye out for another E4OD, build it up and swap out when the time comes. I plan to have a spare engine and tranny for my truck on the long term anyway. No plans to sell the beast, especially after the new sheet metal goes on.
You laugh but I've already been up to 100 mph twice. Once years ago just to see if I could, and again more recently to get a stacked dodge cummins out of the way. He fogged me earlier when leaving the lake but what annoyed me was all the crap flying out of his boat once we got on the road. Chip bags, beer cans, etc. He tried to follow but lost his nerve in the corner. All in good fun. No doubt he was trying to figure out how an old rust bucket ford blew his doors off
Your trans controller is actually made by the same folks as my old baumannator so I have no doubt its a solid product. When I was first getting mine up and running, I talked to Karl Baumann a few times on the phone and he was always a pleasure to deal with. Whats really nice is they seem to have kept the price about the same even with some new features. If I ever drop a 6.9 in my F150, I'd have no reservations about using it.
Trackspeeder,
Its been so long that I can't even remember if I replaced that when I did mine. Probably not. I'm almost tempted to just keep an eye out for another E4OD, build it up and swap out when the time comes. I plan to have a spare engine and tranny for my truck on the long term anyway. No plans to sell the beast, especially after the new sheet metal goes on.
Hi Trackspeeder!
Thanks for this advice and for helping so much with my E4OD build! You are right, the Boost Valve in the Front Pump
is probably the "biggest bang for the buck" as the increased pump capabilities will counter the large amount of volume
the E4OD requires to be pumped in order to engage a new mode...
Hi David85,
That's amazing, I don't think I will get even close to 100 mph in my Brick, or if I did, I wouldn't feel too safe, I don't have
the aeroshape for it, ha, I could pull back on the wheel and "take off." You got such tall gears, how is it at the lower end?
Do you tow very much?
Correct, the price was very low, the unit was like US325 I think, but I got other stuff with it. Everyone I talked to said money
well-spent and I am confident after seeing the video you made.
Good idea to build a second E4OD rather than to be without. I'm thinking the same philosophy for rebuilding my 6.9L, but
there are not too many out here in Southern Kommiefornia... ...I got the impression our State "government" scraps anything
diesel every chance they get. (Most pre-2010 diesels here are going to be phased out (read, "Illegal") by 2023.)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT (Cont.)**********************
Looking at the "tuck" of the driveline, I decided that it is up underneath about as good as I can make it without major surgery:
like cutting 2 other cross-members, relocating the E-brake cables, and somehow re-routing the speedometer cable which now barely
makes it out of it's port, rebounding off the Van floor.
(that's less than a tenth of an inch clearance)
BW1356 mounted and about as high vertically as I'm gonna get it without a lot of effort. The front drive shaft should clear with
the Cardan Joint at this end...
(Kinda wished I had a 1987-91 7.3L idi E-350 to look at, and see how the factory fitted a (2wd) E4OD, just curious. 4WD is uncharted territory...)
With that, it was time to drill the Chassis to mount the Crossbeam/Support,
(Transfer Punch is a lifesaver, less chances at a mis-alignment, finds the center every time.)
Also recommend having a set of Uni-Bits, very useful in the shop. Had to use a Close Quarters Drill to get it done.
Guy I bought the beam from was nice enough to include the factory double fastener, no back up wrench needed.
Note the scuff on the Floor Beam over the Adapter. There is about 0.10" gap between them, a little close...
Next beam aft is a Chassis Cross Beam. Two things happening here. The speedometer cable output is VERY
cramped, the bow, or curve of the cable coming out of there is going to be pretty tight. Second thing is about
1/16" of gap between the Case and Beam. Something I did not account for.
I would be a little more comfortable with more gap between the two parts...
...the driveline is pretty darn up high now that I look at it,
I'm going to pull the E450 Cross Member and oval the holes in it or the Chassis about 1/4" for some more room.
Now I can get the dimension for the rear driveshaft!
Until next time.
Best regards,
George
Thanks for this advice and for helping so much with my E4OD build! You are right, the Boost Valve in the Front Pump
is probably the "biggest bang for the buck" as the increased pump capabilities will counter the large amount of volume
the E4OD requires to be pumped in order to engage a new mode...
Hi David85,
That's amazing, I don't think I will get even close to 100 mph in my Brick, or if I did, I wouldn't feel too safe, I don't have
the aeroshape for it, ha, I could pull back on the wheel and "take off." You got such tall gears, how is it at the lower end?
Do you tow very much?
Correct, the price was very low, the unit was like US325 I think, but I got other stuff with it. Everyone I talked to said money
well-spent and I am confident after seeing the video you made.
Good idea to build a second E4OD rather than to be without. I'm thinking the same philosophy for rebuilding my 6.9L, but
there are not too many out here in Southern Kommiefornia... ...I got the impression our State "government" scraps anything
diesel every chance they get. (Most pre-2010 diesels here are going to be phased out (read, "Illegal") by 2023.)
**********************E4OD-Details Before Install- TEST FIT (Cont.)**********************
Looking at the "tuck" of the driveline, I decided that it is up underneath about as good as I can make it without major surgery:
like cutting 2 other cross-members, relocating the E-brake cables, and somehow re-routing the speedometer cable which now barely
makes it out of it's port, rebounding off the Van floor.
You must be registered for see images attach
(that's less than a tenth of an inch clearance)
You must be registered for see images attach
BW1356 mounted and about as high vertically as I'm gonna get it without a lot of effort. The front drive shaft should clear with
the Cardan Joint at this end...
(Kinda wished I had a 1987-91 7.3L idi E-350 to look at, and see how the factory fitted a (2wd) E4OD, just curious. 4WD is uncharted territory...)
With that, it was time to drill the Chassis to mount the Crossbeam/Support,
You must be registered for see images attach
(Transfer Punch is a lifesaver, less chances at a mis-alignment, finds the center every time.)
You must be registered for see images attach
Also recommend having a set of Uni-Bits, very useful in the shop. Had to use a Close Quarters Drill to get it done.
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Guy I bought the beam from was nice enough to include the factory double fastener, no back up wrench needed.
You must be registered for see images attach
Note the scuff on the Floor Beam over the Adapter. There is about 0.10" gap between them, a little close...
You must be registered for see images attach
Next beam aft is a Chassis Cross Beam. Two things happening here. The speedometer cable output is VERY
cramped, the bow, or curve of the cable coming out of there is going to be pretty tight. Second thing is about
1/16" of gap between the Case and Beam. Something I did not account for.
You must be registered for see images attach
I would be a little more comfortable with more gap between the two parts...
...the driveline is pretty darn up high now that I look at it,
You must be registered for see images attach
I'm going to pull the E450 Cross Member and oval the holes in it or the Chassis about 1/4" for some more room.
Now I can get the dimension for the rear driveshaft!
Until next time.
Best regards,
George
david85
Full Access Member
I think the most I've needed to move was around 6000lbs. Low range comes in really handy for pushing something heavy on a ramp. I don't actually NEED it on a boat launch but reversing up a steep incline with a trailer is the only real fatal weakness I can see in the E4OD. The reverse ratio is just too tall so its fairly easy to stall the converter. Getting up to highway speeds with a trailer isn't really an issue. The only time I notice any hesitation is right off the line. But even then, once over 10-15 MPH, the boot comes on and the transmission simply upshifts at higher road speeds to maintain engine RPM.
I have no doubt your van will hit 100 MPH if turbocharged since my foot was no where near the floor...SHOULD you (or I) do that is another question entirely.
My complements on how clean that van is underneath. Kommifornia has its perks.
I have no doubt your van will hit 100 MPH if turbocharged since my foot was no where near the floor...SHOULD you (or I) do that is another question entirely
.My complements on how clean that van is underneath. Kommifornia has its perks.
Hi David85,
"Low range comes in really handy for pushing something heavy on a ramp..."
Ha, I didn't even think about that, (slaps forehead) I occasionally use the local boat ramps and drive down arroyos (gulches) in
Baja. And now my Van will have LOW RANGE....
My van will be run as a shell most of the time, or with boards inside (they take up space but light in weight.) Still,
I plan to do a turbo on the 6.9L, hopefully soon as budget allows. I'm sorting out the front axle and steering
first, then on to the funner stuff
Very impressed by the mileage numbers you've pulled, wow!
**********************E4OD-Final Install**********************
I decided to oval the holes in the chassis. I could have done the Cross Member but it's a wash. As long as I
can attain a clamping force which exceeds the max load between the two parts using the given bolts, it will work.
Mini air-grinder with 1/4" tungsten bit cuts almost too fast on mild steel. (my goal was to drop about 1/4" max)
Test fit with the Ford combo fastener. I got a little less than 1/4, maybe 3/16" real drop.
Couldn't help myself, hitting the frame with Scotch Brite and my solvent combos...
...spray bomb "Rust Tough semi-flat Krylon," seems okay.
But I'm just doing the mechanical on this project, so this is where I draw the line... ...a few inches from the
"new" cross brace. If I do a resto on this wagon, then I will revisit this and cherry out the entire chassis.
(This way, at least, I don't have to pull the brace to paint under it (kinda like taping off your wall switches vs.
taking the switch plates off when you paint a room.) )
I now have about 1/4" of space above the Transfer Case and Adapter!
So that makes a milestone, the E4OD/BW1356 assembly is installed.
Now to start connecting things to it all...
********************ORDERING A DRIVE SHAFT*******************
Front and rear drive shafts are going to be custom made from scratch, because of the Slip Yoke Eliminator/Flange
I had put on.
I got the dimensions for the builder.
Transfer Case Flange Pilot Dia:.......2.00"
Transfer Case Flange Bolt Circle:....4.25"
Spicer Yoke Inside of Tabs:............3.63"
Spicer Yoke Cap Dia:.....................1.13"
Center Flange to Center Cap:........51.25"
Slider Required?...........................yes
Now it's on to the next step...
Til next time.
Best regards,
George
"Low range comes in really handy for pushing something heavy on a ramp..."
Ha, I didn't even think about that, (slaps forehead) I occasionally use the local boat ramps and drive down arroyos (gulches) in
Baja. And now my Van will have LOW RANGE....
My van will be run as a shell most of the time, or with boards inside (they take up space but light in weight.) Still,
I plan to do a turbo on the 6.9L, hopefully soon as budget allows. I'm sorting out the front axle and steering
first, then on to the funner stuff
Very impressed by the mileage numbers you've pulled, wow!
**********************E4OD-Final Install**********************
I decided to oval the holes in the chassis. I could have done the Cross Member but it's a wash. As long as I
can attain a clamping force which exceeds the max load between the two parts using the given bolts, it will work.
You must be registered for see images attach
Mini air-grinder with 1/4" tungsten bit cuts almost too fast on mild steel. (my goal was to drop about 1/4" max)
You must be registered for see images attach
Test fit with the Ford combo fastener. I got a little less than 1/4, maybe 3/16" real drop.
Couldn't help myself, hitting the frame with Scotch Brite and my solvent combos...
You must be registered for see images attach
...spray bomb "Rust Tough semi-flat Krylon," seems okay.
But I'm just doing the mechanical on this project, so this is where I draw the line... ...a few inches from the
"new" cross brace. If I do a resto on this wagon, then I will revisit this and cherry out the entire chassis.
(This way, at least, I don't have to pull the brace to paint under it (kinda like taping off your wall switches vs.
taking the switch plates off when you paint a room.)
)I now have about 1/4" of space above the Transfer Case and Adapter!
You must be registered for see images attach
So that makes a milestone, the E4OD/BW1356 assembly is installed.
Now to start connecting things to it all...
********************ORDERING A DRIVE SHAFT*******************
Front and rear drive shafts are going to be custom made from scratch, because of the Slip Yoke Eliminator/Flange
I had put on.
I got the dimensions for the builder.
Transfer Case Flange Pilot Dia:.......2.00"
Transfer Case Flange Bolt Circle:....4.25"
Spicer Yoke Inside of Tabs:............3.63"
Spicer Yoke Cap Dia:.....................1.13"
Center Flange to Center Cap:........51.25"
Slider Required?...........................yes
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
Now it's on to the next step...
Til next time.
Best regards,
George
Last edited:
While the rear driveshaft is getting made, I could start connecting the E4OD to the vehicle.
First lesson...
Got the Trans torqued to the Eng, Cross Member torqued to the Frame, and finally started to
torque the Torque Converter to the Flywheel...
See the little hole next to the bigger hole in the flywheel?
Well, it accepts the Torque Converter bolts, and unlike the photo above, I was plugged into them
Pulled the tranny back again, then made sure it was right (and I could get a socket on the special flange nut) then
proceeded to torque everything down.
Note on torque: Ford Engineering will recommend something like the following. If you are given a range for torque,
like (34-42 Lb-Ft) just take the middle value and add 1 or 2 Lb-Ft, so dial your wrench for 40 Ft-lb.
*************************Adapting the Shift Mechanism***********************
The E4OD I got was stripped on the outside. I grabbed as many parts off the blown C6 that came with with van,
I decided to start with existing parts and modify them to suit the E4OD. (The time it would take me to crawl around
at the Pick U Pull, plus going and coming would be way more than doing this... ...plus it's not as fun!)
The shift linkage from the 1985 was staying put. I had one anchor to build then had to fab the shift arm then extend
the last link rod.
The piece on the left will attach to the E4OD, it will support the existing Bell Crank which sits inboard of the Driver's
Side chassis (One arm reaches up to the column shift arm, and the other arm reaches back to the Transmission shift arm.)
The middle piece was also from the C6 (or C5.5,) and it literally fell off the shaft it was swaged to. Not knowing if I
could use the entire C6 shaft/lever in the E4OD, I kept the lever. Turned out the shafts do not interchange...
The piece on the right was the aftermarket B&M shift arm that came with the B&M shift shaft I already installed in the
E4OD. Nice thing I liked was the arm BOLTED ON rather than being "permanently" swaged.
(Didn't know at the time if/what arm would work, but logic says to stay close to stock, rather than go cable shift which sounds clean at first but is another can of worms...)
By using stock Ford parts, I kinda made the new part look like it was supposed to be there, ha.
Cut it apart, hammered the one arm flat, then bolted it to the E4OD. Tacked together here.
mocked up. Kept the Bell Crank shaft level and square, used the 3/8-16 threaded bosses in the E4OD
*Never seen one, but my guess is there is a part on '86-'88 or so diesel vans which does this, but again,
didn't want to go chasing...
Bell Crank pivot in place, on to the next step,
Thinking the C6 is sort of like the E4OD, the shift lever is in the same area, and shift pattern is the same, so
the shift lever from the C6 would be a good starting point.
Since I retained all the stock shift lever/bell crank contraption, the shift lever length/ratio should be darn close,
Looking closely, the black "Double-D" B&M E4OD Shift Shaft is in place on the C6 Shift Arm. I wanted to use that
Double-D end, so I fill welded,
Grinding, dremel, filing,
The shift arm fit nice and tight, then I tacked a piece of round stock at roughly where I thought it would shift
right...
(Continued...)
First lesson...
Got the Trans torqued to the Eng, Cross Member torqued to the Frame, and finally started to
torque the Torque Converter to the Flywheel...
You must be registered for see images attach
See the little hole next to the bigger hole in the flywheel?
Well, it accepts the Torque Converter bolts, and unlike the photo above, I was plugged into them
Pulled the tranny back again, then made sure it was right (and I could get a socket on the special flange nut) then
proceeded to torque everything down.
Note on torque: Ford Engineering will recommend something like the following. If you are given a range for torque,
like (34-42 Lb-Ft) just take the middle value and add 1 or 2 Lb-Ft, so dial your wrench for 40 Ft-lb.
*************************Adapting the Shift Mechanism***********************
The E4OD I got was stripped on the outside. I grabbed as many parts off the blown C6 that came with with van,
You must be registered for see images attach
I decided to start with existing parts and modify them to suit the E4OD. (The time it would take me to crawl around
at the Pick U Pull, plus going and coming would be way more than doing this... ...plus it's not as fun!
)The shift linkage from the 1985 was staying put. I had one anchor to build then had to fab the shift arm then extend
the last link rod.
You must be registered for see images attach
The piece on the left will attach to the E4OD, it will support the existing Bell Crank which sits inboard of the Driver's
Side chassis (One arm reaches up to the column shift arm, and the other arm reaches back to the Transmission shift arm.)
The middle piece was also from the C6 (or C5.5,) and it literally fell off the shaft it was swaged to. Not knowing if I
could use the entire C6 shaft/lever in the E4OD, I kept the lever. Turned out the shafts do not interchange...
The piece on the right was the aftermarket B&M shift arm that came with the B&M shift shaft I already installed in the
E4OD. Nice thing I liked was the arm BOLTED ON rather than being "permanently" swaged.
(Didn't know at the time if/what arm would work, but logic says to stay close to stock, rather than go cable shift which sounds clean at first but is another can of worms...)
By using stock Ford parts, I kinda made the new part look like it was supposed to be there, ha.
You must be registered for see images attach
Cut it apart, hammered the one arm flat, then bolted it to the E4OD. Tacked together here.
You must be registered for see images attach
mocked up. Kept the Bell Crank shaft level and square, used the 3/8-16 threaded bosses in the E4OD
*Never seen one, but my guess is there is a part on '86-'88 or so diesel vans which does this, but again,
didn't want to go chasing...
You must be registered for see images attach
Bell Crank pivot in place, on to the next step,
Thinking the C6 is sort of like the E4OD, the shift lever is in the same area, and shift pattern is the same, so
the shift lever from the C6 would be a good starting point.
Since I retained all the stock shift lever/bell crank contraption, the shift lever length/ratio should be darn close,
You must be registered for see images attach
Looking closely, the black "Double-D" B&M E4OD Shift Shaft is in place on the C6 Shift Arm. I wanted to use that
Double-D end, so I fill welded,
You must be registered for see images attach
Grinding, dremel, filing,
You must be registered for see images attach
You must be registered for see images attach
The shift arm fit nice and tight, then I tacked a piece of round stock at roughly where I thought it would shift
right...
(Continued...)
*************************Adapting the Shift Mechanism************************
...the PRND21 didn't match too well at the 2 and 1 (the Indicator Needle.) So I cut and tacked and tried again.
After the third try it was real good.
Advice: Good place to start is Park. Have the Column Lever in Park and Trans cranked into Park, then tack in
place. Then it's just a matter of getting the 2 and 1 to match up at the other end of the Indicator, by adjusting
the Bell Crank Rod, and changing the Length of the last shift link.
Once I got it right, I welded in the 7/16" Round Stock,
Kinda ghetto way to do it, but it works when you're not in your home shop!
Mocked up for test fit and function check before paint,
P
R
N
D
2
1
That's for the 1985 PRND21 pattern, but it is actually the OverDrive of the E4OD, I probably won't
change the Indicator, There is also a digital output from the Transmission Controller to the right of
the Steering Column to avoid any confusion.
On to the next steps, cooling and electrical!
Best regards,
George
...the PRND21 didn't match too well at the 2 and 1 (the Indicator Needle.) So I cut and tacked and tried again.
After the third try it was real good.
Advice: Good place to start is Park. Have the Column Lever in Park and Trans cranked into Park, then tack in
place. Then it's just a matter of getting the 2 and 1 to match up at the other end of the Indicator, by adjusting
the Bell Crank Rod, and changing the Length of the last shift link.
You must be registered for see images attach
Once I got it right, I welded in the 7/16" Round Stock,
You must be registered for see images attach
Kinda ghetto way to do it, but it works when you're not in your home shop!
You must be registered for see images attach
Mocked up for test fit and function check before paint,
You must be registered for see images attach
P
You must be registered for see images attach
R
You must be registered for see images attach
N
You must be registered for see images attach
D
You must be registered for see images attach
2
You must be registered for see images attach
1
That's for the 1985 PRND21 pattern, but it is actually the OverDrive of the E4OD, I probably won't
change the Indicator, There is also a digital output from the Transmission Controller to the right of
the Steering Column to avoid any confusion.
On to the next steps, cooling and electrical!
Best regards,
George
**************Adapting the Shift Mechanism (cont.)***************
Been chipping away steadily at the project. There is a lot of truth to the saying "the devil is in the details."
I kind of knew it would go this way, I usually don't cobble things together so I can drive it to work Monday
morning, and that takes all the pressure off.
I've cut and changed the Shift Rod 3 times because of oversights,
Here's the funny part, I put the shift linkages all together for what I thought was the last time: "Okay now
put the MLPS on!" No matter how I put the Sensor on, I could not get the "Neutral Marks" to line up
I was in a state of denial.
*see the alignment marks? This is with the Shaft set at what I determined at the time as N, I had the PRND21
number of clicks and everything, it felt right. That's as close as I could get the marks (DON'T mistake the
keyway as a mark) This is with the sensor body CRANKED CCW as far as I could make it go. (Note
the spacing of the 8mm bolts, the washers relative to the raised part of the MLPS body.)
Having never worked on an E4OD, I ASSumed I knew where "Park" was on the Manual Lever sticking out
of the E4OD case... ...NOT!!! (I pushed by hand as far forward on the lever and called that P, and for
the last 2 weeks I left the linkage that way while continuing with other tasks.)
Some thoughts that go through your mind when this happens:
"CHINA PART!!!" (even though it was from Mexico...)
"It's only a little off..."
"Where's my Dremel?"
"My E4OD is a '98, it's "special""
"Keep going, I'll get used to how it shifts, R is N, N is D, and so on and, NO P!"
"I'm pulling the pan and seeing for myself" (in spite of a million pics I took)
"Stay calm, I'll come back with an idea..."
As of this writing I STILL DON'T KNOW IF I HAVE IT RIGHT, HA!!!
The reason I am posting all this is:
1. Maybe it will help someone else, less head scratching, more improvements
2. Someone knowledgeable will chime in and warn me of stuff
3. The experienced members on here can't wait til I light this candle to see if it grenades!
I made a BIG assumption today, that the position I thought was P is really R, which
means there is another position further over on the Indicator at the column...
...to do this I adjusted the slide link:
^^^That little bit left of adjustment to the right was juuust enough to let me "find"
the real Park (or what I now THINK is Park.) In fact, it was too much so I backed it
off 1/16" after a few tries.
Turns out I actually DO FEEL another detent "click" as I throw the Column Shift into
Park. When under the van, pushing on the Manual Lever sticking out of the trans, I
didn't have enough force to get it over the clicker I guess.
The weird part now is the other end of the range. I swore I had a "1" before all this,
although it did not "click" firmly, it just slid over and the weight of the Column Shift
arm seemed to hold it there. Now, of course, there is a distinct "click" for every gear.
I JUST DON'T HAVE THE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TRANSMISSION TO KNOW FOR CERTAIN.
I figure the proof will be when I get all the wiring done, the US Shift will display the
gear, AND the REAL PROOF will be when I fire the thing up... OH MAN!!!
Anyways, with the Link adjusted, I click over to Neutral:
And down below, I get this:
*and notice how the washers are evenly spaced in the black plastic, right about mid-range in
the little bit that the MLPS can be adjusted.
The lesson here (on-going) is, you cannot be 100% sure when fabricating linkages, so proceed
with CAUTION. The MLPS can wreak havoc if it is out even a little bit!
Okay, so fingers crossed on that part of my Punch List...
************************Trans Cooler************************
I could not mount the Tru-Cool LPD47391 to the front of the Radiator because of planned space needed
for the Intercooler. Underneath is not the best place for any electrical component when the vehicle
is a 4x4, stream crossings and debris are real threats.
There is nothing electrical about the 47391, but I have two little fans mounted to the cooler to produce
forced convection- basically pull over during an overheat scenario and get the almost 20 quarts of
Mercon to lower temps while idling. The fans are conntected to a Derale 16759 adjustable controller:
So, if the fans fail, I'm not stranded, the Tru-Cool kit comes with a manual override option which I
have wired into the dash panel.
I had to find a good new location:
Behind the Passenger Front Wheel, just outboard of the Frame Rail. (There will be splash guard and
bash plate built around this.)
Along with the adjustable temp sensor of the Derale, there is an option for manual override of the fans.
I had to make a panel for other switches anyways so I came up with this:
That way I could give a huge boost to the already more-than-adequate stacked plate cooler element.
Rough calculations show about 3 cycles of the ~20 quarts will get the temp down pretty quickly.
(Continued...)
Been chipping away steadily at the project. There is a lot of truth to the saying "the devil is in the details."
I kind of knew it would go this way, I usually don't cobble things together so I can drive it to work Monday
morning, and that takes all the pressure off.
I've cut and changed the Shift Rod 3 times because of oversights,
You must be registered for see images attach
Here's the funny part, I put the shift linkages all together for what I thought was the last time: "Okay now
put the MLPS on!" No matter how I put the Sensor on, I could not get the "Neutral Marks" to line up
I was in a state of denial.
You must be registered for see images attach
*see the alignment marks? This is with the Shaft set at what I determined at the time as N, I had the PRND21
number of clicks and everything, it felt right. That's as close as I could get the marks (DON'T mistake the
keyway as a mark
) This is with the sensor body CRANKED CCW as far as I could make it go. (Notethe spacing of the 8mm bolts, the washers relative to the raised part of the MLPS body.)
Having never worked on an E4OD, I ASSumed I knew where "Park" was on the Manual Lever sticking out
of the E4OD case... ...NOT!!! (I pushed by hand as far forward on the lever and called that P, and for
the last 2 weeks I left the linkage that way while continuing with other tasks.)
Some thoughts that go through your mind when this happens:
"CHINA PART!!!" (even though it was from Mexico...)
"It's only a little off..."
"Where's my Dremel?"
"My E4OD is a '98, it's "special""
"Keep going, I'll get used to how it shifts, R is N, N is D, and so on and, NO P!"
"I'm pulling the pan and seeing for myself" (in spite of a million pics I took)
"Stay calm, I'll come back with an idea..."
As of this writing I STILL DON'T KNOW IF I HAVE IT RIGHT, HA!!!
The reason I am posting all this is:
1. Maybe it will help someone else, less head scratching, more improvements
2. Someone knowledgeable will chime in and warn me of stuff
3. The experienced members on here can't wait til I light this candle to see if it grenades!
I made a BIG assumption today, that the position I thought was P is really R, which
means there is another position further over on the Indicator at the column...
...to do this I adjusted the slide link:
You must be registered for see images attach
^^^That little bit left of adjustment to the right was juuust enough to let me "find"
the real Park (or what I now THINK is Park.) In fact, it was too much so I backed it
off 1/16" after a few tries.
Turns out I actually DO FEEL another detent "click" as I throw the Column Shift into
Park. When under the van, pushing on the Manual Lever sticking out of the trans, I
didn't have enough force to get it over the clicker I guess.
The weird part now is the other end of the range. I swore I had a "1" before all this,
although it did not "click" firmly, it just slid over and the weight of the Column Shift
arm seemed to hold it there. Now, of course, there is a distinct "click" for every gear.
I JUST DON'T HAVE THE EXPERIENCE WITH THIS TRANSMISSION TO KNOW FOR CERTAIN.
I figure the proof will be when I get all the wiring done, the US Shift will display the
gear, AND the REAL PROOF will be when I fire the thing up...
OH MAN!!!Anyways, with the Link adjusted, I click over to Neutral:
You must be registered for see images attach
And down below, I get this:
You must be registered for see images attach
*and notice how the washers are evenly spaced in the black plastic, right about mid-range in
the little bit that the MLPS can be adjusted.
The lesson here (on-going) is, you cannot be 100% sure when fabricating linkages, so proceed
with CAUTION. The MLPS can wreak havoc if it is out even a little bit!
Okay, so fingers crossed on that part of my Punch List...
************************Trans Cooler************************
I could not mount the Tru-Cool LPD47391 to the front of the Radiator because of planned space needed
for the Intercooler. Underneath is not the best place for any electrical component when the vehicle
is a 4x4, stream crossings and debris are real threats.
You must be registered for see images attach
There is nothing electrical about the 47391, but I have two little fans mounted to the cooler to produce
forced convection- basically pull over during an overheat scenario and get the almost 20 quarts of
Mercon to lower temps while idling. The fans are conntected to a Derale 16759 adjustable controller:
You must be registered for see images attach
So, if the fans fail, I'm not stranded, the Tru-Cool kit comes with a manual override option which I
have wired into the dash panel.
You must be registered for see images attach
I had to find a good new location:
You must be registered for see images attach
Behind the Passenger Front Wheel, just outboard of the Frame Rail. (There will be splash guard and
bash plate built around this.)
Along with the adjustable temp sensor of the Derale, there is an option for manual override of the fans.
I had to make a panel for other switches anyways so I came up with this:
You must be registered for see images attach
That way I could give a huge boost to the already more-than-adequate stacked plate cooler element.
Rough calculations show about 3 cycles of the ~20 quarts will get the temp down pretty quickly.
(Continued...)
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