1998 E4OD on the outside... ...wait a minute!

[79jasper]

I could be wrong, but pretty sure you can just bolt the tpms on.
Shouldn't be any difference in 6.9 vs 7.3 pumps.

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[trackspeeder]

TPS bracket is a bolt on. Besure to get all the parts.

As for the dipstick tube. E4OD van or 4R100 Super Duty. should work.

 

[SDEconVan]

Hi TrackSpeeder,

I remembered that I grabbed a Transmission Dipstick tube (no stick though,) from an early 90's van when I was
at the Pick-U-Pull on 50% off Day a while back, I dug it up,

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The C6 one, is rusted, the 90's is black. Both have a similar end fitting although I know the C6 tube inserts
directly into the Case of the Tranny and the 90's goes into a stub tube which is in turn inserted into the tranny.

What I am thinking is to purchase the stick for the 90's tube and fit it, since the bracket on the tube mounts
to the bell/adapter rather than the cylinder head as the C6 one does.

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Should be fine. To get the stick to work, I got to figure out the amount of stickout into the case, then modify
the stick or tube as needed:

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Right now it's a guess but the amount sticking out should probably be the same as the C6 dipstick (?)

**********Thread Repairs*************

I also went after the stripped thread in the Main Control Body:

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drilled it out and noticed the alloy case was pretty soft right there, I noticed that this happens in spots with Investment
Castings like this one. Re-threading with the oversize tap was a cinch because it was so "soft" there. On the other hand,
you gotta be careful as another strip out is a possibility. (Then I'd need a helicoil for the helicoil... )

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Heli-coil goes in then the little tab is snapped off.

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(HeliCoils have more thread area, and in most cases are stronger than the original threaded bore.)

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The bolt took the new torque nice and crisp as it should. Knock that little set-back off the list...

(Continued...)

 

[SDEconVan]

(Cont.)

*********More Odds n' Ends**********
Thought I would invest in a Filter clip since the new pan is deeper (deeper than 4x4, which in turn is deeper than 4x2.)

Even though the pans all have a high spot to keep the filters sorta pressed in place, it's good insurance as the filter can
rotate a little bit and this could cause a failure. Look at this as "less chances at a f*#k up..."

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Finally get around to doing some cleaning and painting:

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I've had pretty good success with this in the past. I use a 1/2" chip brush to get in the nooks n' crannies, then towel
it off and let it evaporate. Seems to give a good "tooth" for the new coat of paint.

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Last shot I was messing with the C6 dipstick. Here's the other dipstick:

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You can see the red Locktite on the Stub Tube part. Seems like Permatex sealant might be better!

Shot the adapter as well:

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Not sure I'll put the tag back on, it was thrashed when I got it, and unlike some other stuff I worked on, there's no resto
service to update the tag with what is in the trans now...

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**********************

(Continuted...)

 

[SDEconVan]

(Cont.)

***********Trans Cooler Flush************
ALWAYS flush the cooling system upon rebuilding. Further, if the transmission failed (due to internal and/or overheat
issues, then REPLACE the cooling system as it potentially could be compromised. My C6 transmission failed due to
driveshaft failure which tore the tailshaft housing off. Internally the C6 was still intact.

Got to doing the flushing, compressed air before, during and after the chemicals go in AND in both directions (see the puke mark before
I got the bottle put on) ha ha :

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Usually flushed ATF is still RED...!!!

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Want a swig of "Yoo-Hoo" anyone?

It was pretty obvious the elderly couple never changed the ATF, plus this van was on the ORIGINAL tranny:

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After the SECOND flush, the color of the liquid was finally clear! I might do a third flush later on just to see
if the sludge was somehow soaked into the pipes and cooler, it does not seem it at the moment... ...I will replace everything
if that is the case.

This one was super easy, the lines are real easy to access, BUT the big surprise was how LONG it took for the goop to
come out the other end??!!:***:

I double checked the existing cooler, OH MAN, I thought the lines went into the radiator (OE cooler) and came back.
MAN, I was WRONG! Turns out there's a BIG COOLER in FRONT of the engine's radiator!!! (The thing was so big
that I didn't notice it (if that makes sense...)) But it is large enough to make me think it was the radiator for the engine.

I taped its' outline to show:

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The element was 28-1/2" X 17-1/4" BUT the OE cooler was NOT connected.

DANG IT, I bought the Tru-Cool kit before I got to check out the van in person, now I got to figure this one out, whether
I should do TWO coolers, AND hook back into the existing stock one.

The stock cooler is a little better when the vehicle is at a standstill, but even that is contestable because of electric fans. It is
possible to have fluid running too cool believe it or not, there is an optimum temperature where everything is slippery yet the
frictions are grippy. The MOST IMPORTANT thing in my decision is to PREVENT an OVERHEAT SITUATION- either by keeping
temps down, or BUYING TIME before a meltdown.

Still waiting on some transfer case parts...

Until next time.
Best regards,
George

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i think it's ideal to have - 180F t-stat - oem radiator cooler - one large aux cooler - return to trans.

www.amazon.com/Tru-Cool-LPD4739-4739-Pressure-Transmission/dp/B00803CTDA/

well, and i suppose "ideally" before this even,the 4r100's bypass assembly and 3/8 lines.once log truck gets this,it will match chips setup.

 

[trackspeeder]

Is the cooler tube and fin or stacked plate.

Tube and fin toss it. I don't care how big they are, they're junk.

Now if it is stacked plate flush it thoroughly and re use it. Unless it was plumbed fittings up. Those can be time bombs because they load up with tranny crud.

 

[SDEconVan]

Guys, thank you for the info, this helps a lot. Right now I have a BIG fin and tube, and from what I understand
they will create a pressure drop which is undesirable. And with such a Big cooler there are a lot of 180 bends, which
means a LOT of PRESSURE DROP- I can't afford any compromise in the long run.

Also, I already bought a Tru-Cool 40000GVW w/o reg (I have a Bypass from 4R100 though,)

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I found today that the big cooler is clean and flows clear fluid no problem.

That said, I am almost inclined to believe the 8.5"x22" Tru-Cool will be more efficient than the 17.3"x28.5" unknown brand.
Plus the Big cooler could be as old as the vehicle!

So, cooling PLUS pressure drop is deciding this for me.

Now, with the Tru-Cool, I plan to run it outboard from the transmission, and behind the front wheel. It will be shielded and
I want to eventually get a controlled fan that works with the shielding I'll fabricate.

Also, I want to use the OEM cooler inside the main Radiator, but with the controlled fan, maybe I will keep the circuit simple (more
fluid pressure that way,) and just use the Tru-Cool only. With the fan I can sit long periods and idle, or cool-down the trans
quicker when pushing it hard.

The only reason to run through the OEM radiator trans cooler is for the static case (vehicle not rolling.) The fan negates that need.

I'd like some discussion and reasoning about that as well (?)

Good stuff! Thanks guys!

Best regards,
George

 

[asmith]

i have always heard to run the fluid though the aux first, then the stock radiator. this does two things, gets rid of excess heat first so your cooling system doesn't work as hard, but it also lets the tranny come up to temp faster, by using the engine heat. i think that is what i would do along with a remote filter and thermostat like fordf250hdxlt linked to, and see how she does, you can always bypass the radiator completely later on if you don't like how it is behaving.

 

[SDEconVan]

Thanks asmith,

Yes, the engine circuit is helpful to get up to temp on most E4OD's. My E4OD has a bypass valve which has that
viscosity "sensor" (it's a spring actually) that returns fluid back to the transmission. I am wondering if that is enough
or not to get me up to temp quickly? (in Southern California and Mexico most all of the time.)

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See that "lump" at the end of the line? That contains a very sensitive spring, so when the pressure is too high
either from cold/thick liquid or the pressure builds up from a clogged cooling circuit, the fluid will return back to
the sump and fluid supply is maintained. TrackSpeeder pointed this out to me, this was one of the major design
flaws of the E4OD, it serves to warm the fluid AND buy some time if the Cooler and/or Filter are clogged. An E4OD
would starve and burn up quickly. At 45 bucks, it's cheap insurance and makes sense to me.

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The Bypass Valve, when combined with a larger transmission sump, will buy critical time to allow a driver to avoid
a meltdown. The BV also negates any need for the Engine Radiator's Trans Cooler to try and heat up the transmission.
(Usually when the transmission needs warming up, the engine is ALSO in need of warm up and the engine's cooling
circuit has not cracked open (thermostat) yet.) The Bypass Valve lets the frictions and torque converter heat up
the fluid by not running the Cooling Circuit.

So, the "jury is still out" on this one. I don't think the Ford engineers intended the rad/cooler to warm up the transmission,
or at least not to the degree of the BV. I do know that the Bypass Valve was designed in part for that purpose.

Still, it's got me thinking, I have to flush the engine radiator's Tranny Cooler if I go that route...

The other thing is I have a fan set-up on the extra cooler which is thermostatically controlled and I am trying to
figure out if that is enough by itself, it will be adjusted to around 180 degrees. That should cover me at idle and
setting still for long periods while running.

The big gain by keeping the fluid circuit smaller/simpler is a higher fluid pressure is the result, and that is a very high
priority. Yesterday I figured my (out of tranny) fluid circuit with the Big cooler it has right now to be about 30 feet
when stretched out straight. That's THIRTY feet through a drinking straw, and like my shop compressor, there is
a pressure drop from the compressor to the gun, more so with fluid than air too.

Not arguing with you here, this is what I am debating/facing. A good decision now will make things last longer.

Best regards,
George

 

[trackspeeder]

Tube and fin coolers are like a long garden hose. You will have higher pressure at the beginning and will drop at the end. Plus when they get contaminated it will shut off fluid flow. The tranny will fry. Stacked plate are like your radiator. Two ends and multiple passages for fluid to pass through.


Never delete the factory cooler. This is important for low speed and reverse. O/A cooler need air flow to work. You don't have that in these situations.

Always plumb the factory cooler first. This one is doing most of the work. Take the output line and run it to your aux cooler.

Before doing this flush this cooler thoroughly. Don't worry about pressure drop with this cooler. It's a bundle like the engine oil cooler.

 

[SDEconVan]

Okay thanks TrackSpeeder!

I just read that the line out of the trans packs a good wallop of heat, better dealt with at the Engine's Radiator/Trans Cooler.
(that's called "Thermal Hysteresis" and the Engine's Radiator "deadens the blow" of high heat coming out of the converter)


The Torque Converter gets hot at times, wow very hot, also NOT the place to put a temp gauge, there would be too many alarming
"spikes" in temp. Best place for average temp will be the sump, which I think is that 1/8 NPT on the Driver's side, ahead of the
shift mech.

Very helpful, thank you.

Got some flushing to do!

Best regards,
George

 

[SDEconVan]

Oh, forgot to mention, I have a thermostatically controlled electric fan on the Tru-Cool element. It will be
set at 180F with a 10 degree drop to switch off. The thing is adjustable but that will be my starting point.

The controller also has a manual override which I really liked, so I can force cool the trans if need be. I can
hit a dash switch right next to my Temp Gauge.

Pretty good deal at 50 bucks I thought...

 

[FORDF250HDXLT]

i doubt you'll ever need the fan.when the E40D's converter locks up,she's pumping super high volume through the circuit.it's pretty tough to get the trans temps over 200F with the oem setup and the tru-cool.mine pretty much runs around 180-190 peaks.i think iv seen 200 once in a while.......and 220-230 isn't going to kill it or anything.
when at idle the cooling fan will keep the radiator cool and she wont be under load.she'll run cool at idle all day.

it was a chore keeping the C6 cool.it's a breeze keeping the E40D cool.

 

[SDEconVan]

Thank you very much Matt, concrete numbers like that based upon direct experience are a huge help!

I requested some specs from Tru-Cool's maker, then I can calculate the situation where I would need an additional
convective cooling boost from a fan. The running conditions for my rig are unique. I've measured the ground temps
in Mexico (Vizcaino Desert area of Baja) in excess of 150 degrees. Air temps well over 110. We usually are running
flat out 70+, into the wind, rigged with a load up top, then pull off the road and go 60-80 miles off road to reach
destinations. Good stuff for sure. But a failure can be a real game changer. Right now I'm thinking it will be worth
it just to have the fan there, maybe it will never kick in, or I may never need to override and force cool my tranny,
but I've had enough stuff happen down there, and seen plenty of experienced guys get completely humbled.

"...the tru-cool. Mine pretty much runs around 180-190 peaks. I think I've seen 200 once in a while...
....and 220-230 isn't going to kill it or anything."

This is VERY encouraging! Remember I have zero background with the E4OD set up and limited on other drivetrains,
so information like this has a high value. Suggestions are awesome too, I am one of those guys who has to kind of
see "why" or "what" should be the desired set up, rather than just be offered a set up to try.

It would be great if the transmission would pretty much live at 180-190, it would last for sure. 230 scares me a bit,
I'm thinking the plastic parts like the check balls and some seals would begin to flow a bit...

Thanks again, this is really getting me psyched up!!!

Best regards,
George