1991 f350 crew cab project.

[79jasper]

Yep. You rebuilding the trans? Or a shop doing it?

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[siegler]

I'm rebuilding it. No pics of that process unfortunately.....

 

[79jasper]

Cool. Was just curious.

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[Koch13351]

May as well do head studs if it's out and getting a turbo. A friend of mine is doing a similar swap, just don't have the donor truck for wiring and whatnot. It's a 90 F350 CCLB 4x4 460/E40D getting a 6.9/E40D.

 

[siegler]

May as well do head studs if it's out and getting a turbo. A friend of mine is doing a similar swap, just don't have the donor truck for wiring and whatnot. It's a 90 F350 CCLB 4x4 460/E40D getting a 6.9/E40D.

I have been kicking around the idea of head studs. I don't know if I will build enough boost with my ats 088 to worry about it though, even with Russ's 60-1 compressor wheel upgrade and cam shaft. It didn't have studs before I took the turbo off 5 years ago and didn't seem to suffer ill effects, at least from what I can tell.

I do still have the E4OD, computer, sensors, plugs with pigtails and such from when my F250 had an E4OD if interested.....

 

[siegler]

Been a while, but some work got done. Got the reverse shackle kit on, replaced the front spring bushings with poly bushings, removed the AC and steering box from the crew cab and started tearing the IDI down for inspection.

I used Sky manufacturing's old school OBS reverse shackle kit. http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?preadd=action&key=FORD-FSROB-002

Came with box in plates for the frame. This kit does not have you remove the old shackle mount.

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The box in plate is not perfect unfortunately, it hits in a couple places so I had to modify it.

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Once I got the insert to fit I loosely put everything together so everything aligned properly and welded the inserts in.

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Now the hanger can get put back on and bolted securely. I put a couple small stitch welds on too.

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[siegler]

Hit the per-post image limit of 10.

Finally hooked up the leaf springs. I had to loosen the Ubolts to get everything to line up.

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Forgot in the last post: 3 rivets on each frame rail need to get ground smooth and the outside shackle mount hole needs to get drilled to 7/8" for a sleeve.

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[siegler]

Started pulling the engine apart last night. I did a leak down test after pulling the manifolds and oil pan. Cylinder 1 failed at 57% and is leaking out the intake. All other cylinders were below 40% with a couple possibly having a very faint exhaust leak. Hopefully The leaky valve(s) can be fixed with just some valve lapping compound and the suction cup stick. Haven't done much close inspection yet. Hopefully I can get better info today as I continue tear down and start the close inspection. Cylinders are .030 over already, and cross hatching is still visible in all cylinders, so hopefully that will mean the block is in good condition.

Injector. This one is number 8, they all looked the same.

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Pistons and cylinders.

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Rods. Nothing real exciting.

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Gonna do more today, I will post progress tonight.

 

[siegler]

Finished taking apart the engine.
15 of the 16 valves passed the mineral spirit test specified by IH. the intake valve for cylinder 1 is the one that failed which wasn't a surprise after the leak down test yesterday. I pulled no. 1 intake valve to have a look. Hopefully a little polishing will clear up the problem. I measured the stem, and it measures out to be 0.3869", which is bigger than the 0.371"-0.372" called out by my book. What is up with that?
Didn't see any cracks on the heads, The pre combustion cups have some cracks though with a fair few getting close to the fire ring. Should I be concerned?
Bearings show some wear, but don't look awful (at least to me). Rod bearings are standard size. Main bearings are .010" U.S.
The pistons are .030" over. they don't look awful, with the exception of scoring above the top ring and piston no. 7 which has some weird mark that looks like something drooled on it and corroded it? Again, concerning?
All cylinders showed cross hatching all the way down. Cylinder 8 has one spot that has worn past the cross hatching though.
think re-ring kit might be sufficient?

no.1 intake valve.

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no.1 pre-combustion cup. About half had similar cracking that is close to the fire ring.

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No.1 rod bearings. Similar for all rods.

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Main bearings.

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no.1 piston scoring. All others looked similar.

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no. 8 piston with its weird mark.

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Cylinder 8. All other cylinders didn't show signs of wearing past the cross hatching.

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Probably not going to work much more on the engine until Friday at the earliest since I haven't won the lotto.

 

[siegler]

I have measured the block and the crank. All within tolerance so far. Then I got to taking apart and cleaning the pistons. The pin bores on the pistons have very noticable side to side wear, about 0.034" worth. Do you guys think I need to replace otherwise good looking pistons because of this?

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[riotwarrior]

K like the sky kit that seems work well...may swing that way next....

Lookin good so far

Btw 15 images if u post to photobucket

 

[siegler]

Been shopping around for rebuild kits and pistons. I noticed that Mahle lists pistons for our engines that are standard compression, 0.010" decompressed, and 0.020" decompressed (plus an anodised crown 0.020" decompressed piston) All with our 1.11" pin diameter.

Why the decompressed pistons? do some people deck the block up to 0.020"?

http://www.mahle-aftermarket.com/media/local-media-north-america/pdfs/pi-20-09.pdf

Page 109 and 110

 

[siegler]

Talked to a Mahle distributor about pistons for a N/A IDI with an aftermarket turbo (specifically the hard anodized pistons with the 1.11" wrist pin.) He didnt know and talked to Mahle for me. Here is what Mahle has to say: (I identified the part numbers and put the part description in parentheses)

224-3509HA is discontinued. (this is the hard anodized crown piston that would fit non IDIT 7.3's, 0.020" decompressed aswell.)

The turbo would end up burning up this piston. (edited out) from tech said the parts below would work but we do not advise doing what your customer wants to do. There would be no warranty if you went this route but the parts below are what you would use. If any questions, call (Edited out)

8 2243512HAWR (these are IDIT pistons. Hard Anodised crown. standard compression, I would have to change my connecting rods and have the harmonic balancer and fly wheel rebalanced and the very least)
8 CB1327P (rod bearings)
1 MS1596P (main bearings)
1 953299VR (complete victor reinze gasket set)

So no turbo pistons for us..... And if we want to go with what Mahle has to say, we are all going to burn up our pistons with our aftermarket turbos (and lets not mention those running big bad injection pumps ) and we need to upgrade to IDIT parts to compensate.

Thought that was interesting.