#1 Injector Adapter part #

[Morgonzo]

I'm pretty sure I mangled the threads on the brass adapter that goes between the injector hard line and the injector on #1 injector. I need a after-market source or FMC part# to get a new one. I hope to hell I didn't mangle the threads on the hard-line nut. I was out there for WAY to long today trying to button it all back up and this sucker just wouldn't catch when I tried to get 'em back together.

Thanks....

 

[icanfixall]

No chance of messing up the hard line nut. Those are much harder material than the injectors or that useless Rotunda timing adapter. Check the wrecking yards for this piece. They are ALL the same on the idi engine. If you can find a 7.3 or 6.9 in a van just see if this adapter is on the number 4 injector. If it is then either take it from there or remove the number one hard line from the van and install it on the idi in your truck. That way you wont need the timing adapter any more to make the hard line the correct length. Those timing adapters were used on the Only early engines with the old no longer used or serviced Rotunda timing meter.

 

[Morgonzo]

I guess i'm going hunting. It's good news to hear about the hard-line nuts. I'd like to replace the line with one w/o the spacer so even if it was messed, i'd be changing it out anyway. So we don't need that thing to time our trucks now?

 

[IDIoit]

change to 6.9 lines and it does not need this piece.

 

[Morgonzo]

change to 6.9 lines and it does not need this piece.

Yeah, sounds like the way i'm gonna go. Do you guy's think the JY will be cheap enough to be worth the trip and time? I found the right line (#1 idi van) online for 55. I'd like to go on a
JY trip, i've been a JY fanatic since i can remember. Pike's Junk Yard up in Maine somewhere around Rumford is the one that stuck with me, What a place. Anyway I got such limited time to go, and I'm so fed up at the thing not being done that i'm leaning towards just buying the damn thing. Worth it?

 

[Morgonzo]

I don't have to change all the lines to do this, just #1 right? The way you said lines instead of line makes me ask.

 

[IDIoit]

#1 7.3 van line will work, sounds like a cheap option.

 

[icanfixall]

You "might" end up removing other lines to reach the end of the number one line at the pump. Not sure where it is on the back of the pump head. You can also use a knife edge smooth file to clean up the damaged threads on the adapter or even the injector. I have cross threaded injector to nuts before. Just remove the injector and have a spare line available to test the threads as you file them correct. The threads do not create any sealing effect. Its the compression fitting that seals the 1850 lbs of fuel pressure. The thread just holds the fitting together. Please do not use any teflon tape on this fitting or any fitting on our engines. It has its p[lace in the plumbing world but it will do no good on the thread half and ring half of any coupling. Yes... I have seen this on the oil fields before. Once again the union is held together by the threads but the internal swedge is where the seal takes place. Not the ring threads...

 

[Morgonzo]

I was thinking about that earlier today when I thought I had smoked the threads on the hard-line. How would I go about getting that one line off? I saw myself trying to get it off alone but eventually taking two or more off. What's the fitting like on the IP side of the line? is it the same as the injector side?
I had the line on the adapter and the truck was running today, but it sure wasn't screwed on right.

I don't own any files, wish I did. I just got an air compressor, that's how far behind I am with tools.

Thanks guys.

 

[Koch13351]

I have one of these 'timing adapters', just sitting around somewhere... If I can find it, it's yours. I'll let you know. The hunt is on!

 

[towcat]

just as a side note.
if you switch 6.9 lines in place of 7.3, you must go all or nothing. there is a difference in the line length.
ideally would be to find a van 7.3 #1 line. if not found, the entire set of lines must be changed out or a firing imbalance will arise.

 

[Morgonzo]

just as a side note.
if you switch 6.9 lines in place of 7.3, you must go all or nothing. there is a difference in the line length.
ideally would be to find a van 7.3 #1 line. if not found, the entire set of lines must be changed out or a firing imbalance will arise.

Thanks towcat. If I find just the one line though, i'll be okay to switch right? I'm apprehensive to buy one online before looking at it to make sure it's long enough.

 

[homelessduck]

I have one laying around somewhere as well. I will see if I can find it.

 

[icanfixall]

Many 7.3 lines were 60 thousands shorter than the later early 6.9 lines. Reason for this is the factory pulled the injectors out of the precups by 60 thousands. So they required shorter lines. Its true about mixing short and long lines. There is not one of us on this forum that can measure the difference either. 60 thousands is between a number 53 drill bit 0.0595 and 1/16 inch at 0.0625. Get a couple knife edge files. Horrible freight sells them in the 4 inch size. Thats really all you need. Now if you try cleaning up the bad threads please keep it clean. Wash off the fitting really well BEFORE to test the threads. Then when attempting to install this and the number one hard line leave this timing fitting loose on the injector so it has some movement to it. Then hand thread the injector nut to it. Try to make sure the nut is threaded on completely but not tightened with a wrench. Then use the wrench to tighten the fitting to the injector. Then tighten the line nut to the fitting. It is the only real way to guarantee that line will follow the correct threads and not cross again.

 

[homelessduck]

This little guy ?