I used the Ford light gray implement paint from tractor supply with hardener on a car hauler trailer and at first it looked really nice but at this point I wish I would have repainted with the Napa industrial paint I used on it the first time. It chips and scratches off very easily. I even used...
There is a kit available that will allow you to bolt your 4x4 front leaf spring suspension to the 2x4 frame. https://www.skysoffroaddesign.com/products/92-97-ford-inner-front-frame-rail-conversion-box-channel-plates-for-2wd-to-4wd-f-250-350-conversion
I've seen it a couple of times over the years and not just in 6.9/7.3 engines. It sucks to pull a head and see a bunch of pits/holes in a cylinder wall because you just know this is going to cost a bunch more to fix.
I'm just guessing here but I take it that that you are talking about cutting into the cast iron elbow. If so my opinion is that gains received would not be significant enough to outweigh the amount of work needed to do the modification. Cast iron can be tricky to weld. You would be much better...
Yes I've tried unplugging the power from the FSV. I usually run diesel clean in the fuel but maybe I will fill the fuel filter with it and see if that helps.
To bring up a post that was resting quietly, I am having the opposite problem. My engine starts like it should but the FSV is not shutting the engine off. Yes the power to the FSV is shutting off but I have to pinch the rubber hose going to the lift pump closed to get the engine shut down. Any...
I haven't used it myself but a couple of buddies have and it seems to hold up well. I'm curious about how good rust-mort and rust-shield is. It is mentioned in a article in the May issue of Diesel Power.
I would say yes your heater core is gone. It's possible it has been leaking for awhile but you would usually smell the coolant or it would leave a haze on the inside of the windshield.
If the tops of the tires are out only a couple of degrees I would leave it alone until you can afford a proper alignment. They came from the factory with positive camber so you should be fine.
I have read it in the ATS documentation.
I have it backed out 2 turns on mine. It made a little difference but probably not as much as the internal adjustment would.
The upper screw that uses a 1/8" allen wrench is the torque screw ( or lower end fuel delivery) it can be backed out 4 turns, in fact that is ATS's recommendation when installing their aftermarket turbo kit on the 92-94 serpentine belt engines
Here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-6-9-7-3-DIESEL-INJECTOR-RETURN-LINE-KIT-6-9L-7-3L_W0QQitemZ130293856153QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item130293856153&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A3|65%3A10|39%3A1|240%3A1318
No I would leave all the bolts tight so it doesn't bounce around. It might go back into place without ever loosening the bolts. When you pull the fender watch out for any shims, tape each set together and label. Oh, and I would do the BFH adjusting with the door closed.
Since it looks like both hinges have done the same thing I think that I would pull the fender and use a BFH with a block of wood to drive it back in. It would be easier to do any finale adjustments that way also
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