Arctic Ambulance

I am really struggling to figure out where to hook up the wires for the neutral safety switch. The EVTM says there is a white/pink wire and a red/light blue wire. The w/pk is coming from the ignition switch to the mlps, the r/lb is running from the mlps to the starter solenoid. According to the EVTM they are both in connector c119, but which is that? I'm thinking it might be the one circled in this picture. The connector seems to be part of the engine harness, and is on top of the engine, just in front of the fuel filter. It's odd that both those would show up there.

That connector was indeed C119. It appears to connect engine harness to vehicle harness, in the middle front of the engine.

I unhooked the connector and found that the end connected to the vehicle has continuity to the starter solenoid on the front driver side (R/LB wire). I turned the key to the start position and found that same end of the connector has 12V with the key in the start position (W.P wire). I hooked up the two neutral safety switch wires from the US Shift box to these.

I found the wire (gray/black) running from the PSOM to the dash behind the instrument cluster, and spliced the green wire from the controller to it.

I ran all the cables except the single green speedo wire through a rubber grommet in a hole I drilled in the firewall(?), high on the passenger side, immediately in front of the removable doghouse cover.
From the engine side:
From the cab:

I needed to connect the shift controller to power that's on during start and run. The terminal on the glow plug relay was the easy button.
The bright red wire with the yellow ring terminal is the power for the shift controller.

I needed a solid ground. US Shift recommends running their power ground wire straight to the negative terminal of the battery. That's not easily accessible, since the batteries are in that drawer under the box, behind the cab. I ran a 10 gauge THHN wire from the grounding stuf on the front passenger side of the block over the engine and back, and spliced that to the power ground. If I have flaky behavior I'll suspect that the ground isn't good enough.

At this point I don't have any of the nice-to-haves like the OD OFF function, or the backup lights, but I think I'm ready to power it up, and I think I could start the engine and drive it.

Today I was sidetracked a bit, but I did get the machine powered up and auto-calibrated the throttle position sensor. It told me 1.19V at idle, 4.29V at full throttle. Can't remember if those are where it's supposed to be or not, but unlike the factory controller, this one adjusts to the TPS rather than the other way around. I've started putting everything back together now: I put the air cleaner back on with a new filter, I put a new upper clamp on the doghouse cover and wrestled it back into place, I reassembled the dash.

I'll try to start it up and back it out of the shop for a test drive tomorrow. Then I'll park it and pull the radiator for repair or replacement. I still need to contact that shop up in Fairbanks.