'90 F350 Crewcab 4x4 "BFTD" Project..

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Ok... Ordered a few goods...

Oil cooler seals/gaskets, injector crush washers, t-stat and lift pump gaskets, and a rear main kit with repair sleeve.

Only question... Would it be worth it to go on and drop the oil pan and reseal it while its out?
 

jhenegh

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Yes with good RTV. And paint it with really good paint if it isn't paper thin with rust. The reason I pulled my engine the 1st time was rusted pinholes in the oil pan. Replacement requires engine removal from a practical standpoint.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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I thought so... but I know a few things on this engine are "If it aint broke, dont fix it" type of things...

I'll do that as well.

I really hope that the engine is in good shape. I will probably try to run it on the ground before swapping it in and throwing all these new parts at it. Probably reinstall the injectors and return lines and see if it'll go.

Would hate to waste another $40 in parts on another bad engine...
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Well... that was fun.

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Long story short... the tractor's lift cylinders wouldn't touch it however the bucket tilt cylinders would. So.. Had to get it half way out and block it up, let it down, and readjust my chains to get enough lift to get it clear of the core support.

I'll either be buying or borrowing a 2 ton engine hoist by the weekend for re-installation.

On another note, I found a single mass flywheel/clutch on the back of this engine... disc looks thick. I'm going to say that it was replaced when the headgasket failed and the engine was pulled last. Only issue is the input shaft on the trans caught one of the fingers on the pressure plate and bent it about 1/8" outward. I think I'm going to try to straighten it up and run it for the time being as the clutch felt good and the trans shifted good before pulling.

If I cant straighten the finger, I may just replace the pressure plate but hate to keep throwing money at it at this point. Would like to get it driveable so I can see if there are any other expensive issues to address.

Parts should be here later this week so it'll hopefully go back together this coming weekend. We'll see...
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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And then there were two...

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Driver's side exhaust manifold is in 2 pieces.. so gotta pickup some manifold gaskets and keep my fingers crossed that I dont break any of the fancy bolts off. I hit everything with kroil and am letting it soak overnight so we'll see what happens.

This engine looks rather rough on the outside.. everything from the manifolds down is scaling rust. Cooling system was still full and coolant was clean so thats a plus.

I'm going to rebuild the oil cooler, reseal the oil pan, valve covers, and install the new t-stat... then its going outside for some pressure washing. Debating on if I'm going to paint it or not... probably should just to ward off any MORE rust.

I'm hoping the freeze plugs are all still solid... would hate for the first time it builds system pressure that it blows one out. I've never seen rust this extensive on an engine before. Even the exhaust manifolds have huge 1/4" dimples all over them from corrosion.

Anyways... we'll get it cleaned up and see whats what. May do the cleaning prior to changing anything...
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Drug the replacement engine outside last night and pressure washed the scale off the block/heads... looks a lot better then it did.

Broke most of the exhaust manifold bolts loose without any trouble however a few of the bolts on the driver's side manifold... the heads are corroded to the point where the proper socket is loose. I'm going to try tapping on a smaller socket but if that doesn't work, i will most likely have to either cut the heads off or weld a nut on top of the bolt heads... We'll see.

All my seals/parts are in... just need time to get everything changed. Going to pick-up a big engine hoist tonight and plans are to have the new engine in the bay and hopefully fired by Sunday night. Gonna be a long and cold weekend.
 

mbarry98

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Those extractors work really well I had 2 bolts break on my drivers side exhaust manifold and I used one of those and it bit right in and spun it out!


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AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Apparently, the local autozoo has them in stock, so I'll pick up a set when I get the manifold gaskets and paint tonight.
 

79jasper

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Just pay attention, they sell them in half sets. First half comes in the case, the others come in another set to be placed into the current case. You'll see what I mean when you look at it in person.

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riotwarrior

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Fyi....penny vs pound...

Reseal lower rad hose adapter too...then all done.

Also remove BLOCK plugs hex nuts and drain block too. Add liquid sealant to block plugs and after cleaning threads install. Then if you flush system uou have easily removable block plugs
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Fyi....penny vs pound...

Reseal lower rad hose adapter too...then all done.

Also remove BLOCK plugs hex nuts and drain block too. Add liquid sealant to block plugs and after cleaning threads install. Then if you flush system uou have easily removable block plugs

Not a bad idea.

Anytime I flush a cooling system or do something like this, I pull the block drains... refill the cooling system multiple times with distilled water and drain it all back down. This will dilute any leftover tap water in the system to the point where corrosion is no longer a concern.
 

AcIdBuRn02ZTS

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Kentucky overhaul just about finished up....

Oil cooler resealed...
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Everything back together with a fresh coat of paint... not perfect, but much better then the scale/rust.
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Still need to drop and reseal the oil pan and change the rear main. I might sneak back out to the shop after the wife goes to bed and see what I can get done. Hoping to drop it back in the truck tomorrow.
 

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