Looking at this 96 F250 4wd 5spd

[madpogue]

That ^^^^^^ is all normal. Battery light SHOULD be on, since the engine is not running and the alternator is not charging. Voltmeter (it's no "dummy", it reads true system voltage) should read low, because the GPR is activated. Odometer should go blank when you turn the key to START.

Big question is, did the engine crank when you turned the key to START?

What about the WTS light?

 

[direwulf23]

No. It does nothing when I turn to start

 

[madpogue]

Um, excuse me asking, but you ARE flooring the clutch pedal when you turn the key to START, right?

Test to see if the engine cranks - BLOCK THE WHEELS (I wouldn't mess with the parking brake just yet, as the cables may be shot), put the tranny in NEUTRAL (so you don't run yourself over), and put a jumper wire between the two big terminals on the starter relay on the passenger side inner fender. WARNING - you're BYPASSING the clutch safety, so be SURE you're in NEUTRAL. You don't need the key on to do this; it's just to see if the starter works and cranks the engine.

 

[direwulf23]

Don't worry about offending me with "dumb" questions. Often times those are the fixes.
I have the clutch in as hard ai can push it against the floor.

 

[direwulf23]

Okay. I tried jumping the terminals on the starter solenoid and at first nothing. I monkeyed with it back and forth and it suddenly sparked. Now it is turning over.

 

[direwulf23]

Then it quit cranking from the key again. Jumping solenoid gets it to crank.

 

[79jasper]

I would possibly say the solenoid could be bad. Or even the clutch switch.
When you jump the solenoid, see if it'll start that way.

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[direwulf23]

It would crank fine from the solenoid as long as I good contact using a screw driver.
The key would work and then not.
However..... IT'S ALIVE!!!!

 

[madpogue]

Awesome! Get it home and you can troubleshoot the starting issue. You could try putting a jumper wire from the battery to the SMALL terminal on the relay; if it cranks, then the relay is good and it's probably the clutch switch. If no crank, then the relay is prime suspect.

Does the clutch pedal action feel normal? Did you try to actually move it? (Won't want to go far, with that tie rod....)

Once again, you're gettin' a sweet deal man.

 

[direwulf23]

First impressions. It's a lot quieter than my IDI lol. It's Running smooth.
There's a ticking coming from underneath. Could that possibly be the infamous dual mass fly wheel noise?
There is a lot of fuel pooled up in the valley. Like, if I shove my hand to the bottom it comes up to my second knuckle

 

[madpogue]

^^^^^ Join the club, we call ourselves the "Soggy Valley Boys"... Hoses are probably shot at the very least. '95 will have the fuel filter sensor pointed toward the rear (oh that was the other difference with the '95s, different fuel bowl layout). That sensor is a common leak point; you can replace it with a (1/8"?) NPT plug. Could be the weep hole in the fuel pump. Then it's time to decide whether to replace it with another mechanical pump, or go e-fuel.

Do you hear an extra little "clack" when you shut off the engine? That's another sign of a dumb-mass... er... dual-mass flywheel on its way out.

You're def. gonna get nickel-and-dimed on stuff like leaks, wires bit through by mice, belt/hoses, fluids, etc. But we're likely talking hundreds, not thousands, of dollars. Speaking of belt, I see a bunch of rust on that smooth idler on top, def. want to clean that off.

 

[direwulf23]

There was a bit of a clunk, yeah. The gears engage fully and smoothly with no slippage or anything.
Is cylinder in the middle the fuel drain value (easy to tell cause its yellow) is a attached to that has "install slowly" on the top? Or is it the small, flat round thing behind the big cylinder that has two hoses coming off of the top? There seemed to be foaming in the fuel at the base of that.
I've shut it off and started it twice after letting it warm up and it fired right off the key.

 

[direwulf23]

But the third time I heard mind of a clunk clunk on the passenger fender wall and no key activity. Is that a bad solenoid? Can still get it to turn over jumping the solenoid.

 

[direwulf23]

The truck does run. It does drive and shift well. The 4wd does work at least somewhat as I got hung up a bit on a slick hill. Locked in 4 high and it pulled right out.
I didn't get it out on the highway though.

 

[79jasper]

Imo, I'm sticking with the fender solenoid/relay.
I'm not sure what you're asking about in post#57, can you clarify?
Sounds like it may be a cali emissions truck.

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