10.25 questions

[Fordsandguns]

The rear end on my truck has some issues. First is that it is leaking at the yoke and throwing gear oil every where. I have a new seal, crush sleeve and nut for it. Waiting on time to do it and a torque wrench.
Any tips would be very helpful.
Second is that the pass side axle seal is leaking. Have that also and just need tips there.

The problem that has me worried is that the driver's side has some forward/reverse play in it. It isn't leaking but going down the road it makes a hollow drumming sound that I am assuming is the hub hitting the brake drum as when i get on the brake pedal it stops. Also the lug holes on the drum are worn egg shaped.
Any thoughts? Do I need something on the inside to hold it, or is it maybe the bearings?
I do have the rear still under the 250 if I need it, but it is 4.10 and the one in the CC is 3.55 and I'd like to keep it 3.55.
Sorry for such a long post, just wanted to give all the info I could.

 

[Goofyexponent]

It sounds to me like a bearing out of adjustment or complete bearing failure. Get that fixed ASAP or you rust damaning the housing, breaking the axle shaft, losing a wheel or completely destryoing the hub and carrier inside.

Jack the truck up and see if the wheel/hub flops aorund on that side...if so, remove the wheel, axle and hub...I am sure you will find something out of ajustment in there!

 

[sootman73]

sorry i cant help you with the yoke seal(even though i need to do that myself also)

as for the hub seal make sure you get a seal that has three seals on it. on the sealing edge there should be three ribs(tri-seal) stock ones only have one rib and they dont last very long.

when you go to take the hub off you will:

• pull the axle shaft out
• pull the brake drum off(might have to loosen the shoes to get it off) to loosen the shoes turn the star wheel up with a screw driver.
• either get the socket for the ratcheting/locking nut or use a hammer and a punch to turn the nut counter clockwise.(to loosen either side, the top of the nut must be turned towards the back of the truck.
• then wiggle the outer bearing out
• should be able to the pull the hub off(it might be stuck on there but keep banging at it until the bearing/seal lets go)
• pull the seal out(best way is to put the hub the opposite way into the brake drum with the drum flat on the ground mounting holes up) then get a pry bar to pop the seal out. or you can use a punch if you have one long enough.
• just make sure you dont forget the inner bearing when you go to put the new seal on.

the hub and drum are together one spinning piece with the lug bolts holding everything tight so its not the hub touching the drum making that noise. as for egging the holes in the drum there must be some much more serious problems because that is pretty thick steel at the mounting holes....

 

[Fordsandguns]

It sounds to me like a bearing out of adjustment or complete bearing failure. Get that fixed ASAP or you rust damaning the housing, breaking the axle shaft, losing a wheel or completely destryoing the hub and carrier inside.

Jack the truck up and see if the wheel/hub flops aorund on that side...if so, remove the wheel, axle and hub...I am sure you will find something out of ajustment in there!

The wheel and hub don't just flop around, it just will rotate back and forward a little with that side up and the other wheel on the ground. I was putting new brakes on when I noticed the egged holes and the play. I had thought that the noise was from the bed. It wasn't put on as tight as it should have been and I had to tighten one of the bolts on it. But after that the noise was still there and experimenting found that when I push the brake the noise stops. I can't hear any grinding noises but with as noisy as these trucks are that might not mean anything.
I was fearing the things that you mention there!

 

[grog85]

On any non-limited rear end, you will get a couple of inches of play by turning one wheel back and forth with the other wheel on the ground. The clearence between the ring and pinion allows for that, especially after 200k miles. If you are getting a lot more play than that, you should pull the cover off & inspect the ring & pinion to see how worn they are. If they are worn bad, they will be noisy.

 

[spencergt66]

why do you have a new crush sleeve if your just going to replace seal you dont have to replace the crush sleeve remove yoke change seal reassemble using new nut done

 

[Diesel_brad]

For replacing the pinion seal. I have always just marked the nut and pinion. Taken the nut off(count how many turns),and yolk. Replace the seal, install yolk and tighten nut to previous position. Then tighten 1/8 revolution more.

 

[87crewdually]

It's pretty common for the pinion yokes to come loose on 10.25's prior to
1993. This is why 93-down is considered a short pinion and after, a long pinion. The differences between the 2 is the length of the spline and yoke contact area.
The following are the steps I take if there is no excessive play in spline to spline contact, and backlash.
So, what I do is mark a reference scribe of the nut to pinion and remove.
Remove the old seal.
Thoroughly clean the yoke and the splines of the pinion with brake clean being careful not to knock any dirt or cleaner in the housing of the rear.
Apply grease to the seal's inner rubber lip and install the new pinion seal.
Apply a thin coat of silicone sealent to the inner splines on the yoke. (This ensures you don't get oil pushing up the splines and end up leaking)
Install yoke.
Apply green or blue thread lock to the pinion nut and install nut to original position, and check for any looseness.
Using a punch stake the nut to the pinion to insure it doesn't back off.
Check or change diff oil level, top if necessary.

 

[spencergt66]

what they said

 

[Black dawg]

check your vent hose.

 

[Fordsandguns]

why do you have a new crush sleeve if your just going to replace seal you dont have to replace the crush sleeve remove yoke change seal reassemble using new nut done

Well, I was under the impression that it all had to come loose to fix it, I guess you live and learn.
I know that I have read on OB that you should replace the nut if it needs to come off.

 

[Fordsandguns]

On any non-limited rear end, you will get a couple of inches of play by turning one wheel back and forth with the other wheel on the ground. The clearence between the ring and pinion allows for that, especially after 200k miles. If you are getting a lot more play than that, you should pull the cover off & inspect the ring & pinion to see how worn they are. If they are worn bad, they will be noisy.

The play isn't more than maybe an inch, but this is an ls rear.
Are you saying that if there is enough wear on the ring and pinion that they could be the source of the noise?
Also, why would stepping on the brake stop the noise?

Bear with me guys, I have no experience with axles and this is all new to me.

 

[sle2115]

Check the yoke too! Mine had a groove warn where the seal rides, I had a spare and it's good now. It never leaked, but sure looked like it should have!

 

[sootman73]

i have had a vibration and shake ever since i got my truck. i'm finally in a place to fix it and i think maybe bearings in the rear end are bad. not the wheel bearings but the diff bearings. i have to confess that i've done a very poor job keeping oil in the axle. the hub seals have gone out repeatedly and the yoke leaks....

i found a complete bearing and seal kit on rock auto for $200. heres a link to it...

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=257933

there has always been a humming noise at higher speeds and when going from drive to reverse there is a big clank.... could that also be worn out gears?

i wish i had a dana axle cuz i could easily find replacement gears here at work...

 

[Knuckledragger]

there has always been a humming noise at higher speeds and when going from drive to reverse there is a big clank.... could that also be worn out gears?

The humming noise and clank are related. If your gears are out of adjustment, they will do both. Unless you have run it hard with no oil, they are probably only in need of correct adjustment to get rid of the offending noises. It isn't tough to do, but I have never had a 10.25 apart, so don't know if they use shims or screw sleeves to take up the slack. Some (yellow or white) high spot gear paste will show the wear patterns to guide your adjustment.