Some food for thought.
Always check your timing after rebuilding the engine, changing the IP, or changing the injectors. Also, if you have one you might want to check yearly. Make sure you timing mark bracket on the timing chain cover is not loose or bent, this could give you a false reading. Clean off your damper and your harmonic balancer so you can see the marks and get good readings. There are several ways you can use these tools to get your timing. Below are two.
Set up one - Using the piezo clamp (Injector line clamp.) and the magnetic probe.
Hook the machine to your battery. Now put the switch on “Offset” and set to 20 if not already showing that. (You can use other injectors with a different offset.) Now put the switch on probe. (Magnetic probe.) You will put the magnetic probe in the hole to the right (Clockwise) of the TDC mark. Since this hole is not at/over the TDC mark its actually 20 degrees off of TDC. Thus, your meter will do a 20 degree offset needed when using this probe to calculate true timing. (If the hole was over TDC you would not have an offset.) Make sure your probe is not riding on your crankshaft damper, it will grind it down and perhaps ruin it. One member said he uses a business card, pushes down, and then pulls out the business card for a gap. Then hook the piezo clamp to the #1 injector line as close to the injector as possible, but not on a bend. You will also want to sand off any paint where you plan to hook the piezo clamp. The timing machine will use the difference between the crank position and injector pulse to create a timing number. Now you are ready to set the timing. Remember to move any wires out of the way from moving parts of the engine. You are now ready to time your vehicle.
Set up two - Using the piezo clamp and a timing light. If your magnetic probe is problematic you can do it this way. (You can use your own timing light with advance or buy theirs.)
Set the machine switch to “light”. (As in timing light.) It now works the pickup bar (U shaped looking metal part.) or their factory light. (Which most of us do not have.) Hook the piezo clamp to the #1 injector line as close to the injector as possible, but not on a bend. You will also want to sand off any paint where you plan to hook the piezo clamp. For this instance, we will discuss using a generic timing light with timing advance. Hook up your timing light to the battery and your ignition wire clamp around the u-shaped metal bar in the machine. Set your timing light to 8.5 degrees and check how far off of TDC your timing mark is. (Note there is no 20 degree offset when you do not use the magnetic probe.) You can use the timing advance feature to now figure out how far off your timing is. If your not at TDC with 8.5 degrees of advance on your light, go up and then down on your timing light till it is at TDC. Now you can add or subtract to determine how many degrees you are off.(Then you set the timing light to your desired timing and adjust the IP till you see the timing line on the damper at TDC. You are now ready to time your vehicle. Some folks find some timing lights do not work well with these metal bars, so you may have to try more than one timing light.
You will time the engine at 2,000 rpm and you want to set your timing between 8.5 (Factory) and 9.5 (Many like this better.) degree’s before TDC. (Your meter will correct for the 20-degree offset and show you actual timing.) You are strongly advised by many members of this site to not adjust the IP while the engine is running. Test, shut off, adjust, and re-test till you get it right. Many have killed an IP doing it while running. Move in small dime or 2 degrees of a turn. The front of the timing pump has a square on it you can put a wrench on to turn the IP and hold it till you tighten. As mentioned above, don’t over twist your lines. If you timing is off by more than a couple of degrees and your pump does not want to move easily, you should loosen the injector lines on the IP, adjust the IP, tighten the bolts, tighten the lines and try again. If you are close most folks can just move the IP and all is well. Many above has suggested the special wrenches for loosing the IP, I agree and did the same. All the best!