Glow Plugs

gilend

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I have a 1990 F-350, diesel 7.3 idi. Winter is coming I would like to test my glow plugs. My question is where exactly are they, and what is the best way to test them. Pics would be nice for the location of the glow plugs, I am new to working on my own trucks/diesels. Thanks so much for any help.
 

flareside_thun

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Testing them is crazy easy. Get a test light, hook the clamp to the positive side of the battery, unhook the glowplug connector from each glow plug as you move from one to the other and touch the tip of it the probe end of the test light. If the test light lights up, the GP is good, if not, it needs to be replaced. My personal preference is to replace GP's as a set instead of individually.

Here's a short video using a multimeter to check for continuity.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trEaaoktcs0
 

lotzagoodstuff

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Very easy to test. Get yourself an ohm meter or a test light, very simple to find them as there are 8 of them pointed straight up at your with a push to connect plug on each one. I'm sure there's a link on here, do a search.
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I believe the glow plugs should test 2 ohms or less, but if they are open you'll get no continuity (or no light if you are using a test light) and that will tell you what's wrong.

By the way: only Ford/Motorcraft/Beru glow plugs. Don't use anything else as they have a tendency to swell and the tips can break off causing you a major headache. If you find some bad ones, try to identify what make they are as you will need to be very careful when pulling them if they are Autolites or anything besides Berus.

I am local, if you have any problems give me a shout as it only takes about ten minutes to check your gp's (especially if your truck is not a turbo).

Good luck, should be very easy for you.
 

gandalf

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Let's start with the basics. Your 7.3 engine has 8 glow plugs. I think previous posters have told you adequately how to test them. Before testing them, however, you must find them and perhaps remove them. You'll need a 3/8 deep well socket (I think that's the right size).

The picture below shows two glowplugs, on the driver's side of the engine. They're the things with the white connectors. The red caps are on the injectors. On the right you can see the valve cover with the engine decal. Knowing where those two are, and what they look like, I'm sure you can find all the others.

You want to avoid, at all costs, breaking the tip off a glowplug as you extract it. Post back to the forum if you meet any resistance when unscrewing them.
 

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wmoguy

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All good info listed above. One tid bit I'd add if you think those gloplugs have been in there a while is to let them soak in Kroil or similar product for quite a while. Take it slow and easy. From personal experience I can tell you trying to rush thru this can cost you dearly. Also, it was previously posted the only the motor craft berus will not swell and get stuck. Not accurate, any of the brands can as I've seen. However I'd definitely replace them with motor craft plugs based on the long term reviews they've got over other brands.
 

RANOVRU

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I went to check mine today just for kicks and the first one I went to pull the connector off of I noticed was already cracked before I even touched it. So now Ill need at least one of those connecters (possible more, the rest feel pretty fragile).

Are the connecters just supposed to pull off or is there another trick?

Where can I get some new connecters?


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Cincinnati Guy

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Go to your local napa and buy all new bullet connector ends for your glow plugs. What yours are doing is very common with there age.
 

icanfixall

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Guys... If the white plastic body of the plug connecter breaks and they probably will. Don't worry about it. Thats just an insolater cover. The actual metal connecter still functions fine and nothing is close by to ground out the harness. Several of mine are missing all that plastic crap and they still work great.Uhaul was just selling new complete glow plug harnesses for around $80.00... The dealer will clip you around $200.00 for the harness.
 

RANOVRU

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Thanks for the tips icanfixall. I was just going to wrap them in electrical tape once I realized the metal connecter underneath was what actually counted. If they are just standard bullet connecters I may just replace them.

BTW, checked all of them and they were good. Definately not all the same type, but measured good. So does anyone have any idea about the clicking going on (check my sig for vid) at start up? I was told it was either bad GPs or bad GP relay???
 

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