86 f250 6.9 rebuild/refresh advice and questions

stealth13777 · Jan 27, 2015

Well, as I was doing final prep today, found that my cold idle advance switch located near the thermostat has both leads broken off. Looks to be a $50 part from the dealer or $40 on Amazon. And it'll hold up getting this thing running. I was thinking I might try and start it without coolant, just to hear it run, then finish it once I get this part. Also looking for a cheaper source, if anyone has one of these. [emoji93]

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IDIoit · Jan 28, 2015

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...trusive-High-Idle-Circuit&highlight=cold+idle

stealth13777 · Jan 28, 2015

IDIoit said:
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...trusive-High-Idle-Circuit&highlight=cold+idle

This looks good but still requires the switch I need. In any case, thanks!

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79jasper · Jan 28, 2015

But if you use a dpdt switch, set one position to power the high idle and timing advance. The other for just high idle. Of course middle will be off.

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stealth13777 · Jan 29, 2015

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PwrSmoke · Jan 29, 2015

Made smoke yet? The blue looks better than I expected but I still like grey better ( : < ).

riotwarrior · Jan 30, 2015

Whats the hold up? Light that beach up already!

stealth13777 · Feb 8, 2015

riotwarrior said:
Whats the hold up? Light that beach up already!

I should have tried to start it the day I took that picture; been slammed with work since. Hoping to get it going this next weekend maybe. If the shop was open Sunday could def do it...

Reading on here has made me really wish I had taken the studs tighter than 80ft/lbs, even with the ARP lube and checking them a few days after initial install. (followed the manual and arp's instructions...) I've been considering pulling the valve covers and taking them up to like 95. The extra work sure would beat doing any of this again. Anyone want to talk me into doing it, or convince me not to?

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PwrSmoke · Feb 8, 2015

stealth13777 said:
I should have tried to start it the day I took that picture; been slammed with work since. Hoping to get it going this next weekend maybe. If the shop was open Sunday could def do it...

Reading on here has made me really wish I had taken the studs tighter than 80ft/lbs, even with the ARP lube and checking them a few days after initial install. (followed the manual and arp's instructions...) I've been considering pulling the valve covers and taking them up to like 95. The extra work sure would beat doing any of this again. Anyone want to talk me into doing it, or convince me not to?

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While I agree on following up with another retorque, the 80 lbs-ft is there for a reason. Nobody has made a sufficiently technical explanation about the plusses and minuses of going tighter. It's just been "tighter is better." Maybe. Maybe not. Doing it, and going against what the manufacturer recommends, because a couple of guys on an internet site say so is not sufficient in my book. I'm sure the studs can take it (though remember ARP had a reason for 80 lbs-ft.. we may not know or understand it, but they did) but can the threads in the block hold 95 lbs-ft long term?

Waystro · Feb 8, 2015

stealth13777 said:
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Looking Good!! i see you have one of those Napa Camo Hats
They where giving those away with every $25 purchase I had like 5 of those gave most of them away. :rotflmao

Anyways enough of my Ramblings.

G. Mann · Feb 8, 2015

The instruction sheet that came with my new ARP stud kit says "Torque in 3 equal steps to 125 ft lbs with ARP Ultra-Torque Lubricant."

FWIW.

stealth13777 · Feb 8, 2015

G. Mann said:
The instruction sheet that came with my new ARP stud kit says "Torque in 3 equal steps to 125 ft lbs with ARP Ultra-Torque Lubricant."

FWIW.

7.3 or 6.9? It's interesting that your instructions are different. Wonder why

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G. Mann · Feb 8, 2015

The ARP stud set that I bought is specific for 1988-1994 7.3 .... ARP part # 250-4204.

Could it be you have a different ARP part number with different spec?

It's above my pay grade.. all I know is, when I put these in, torque will be per the instruction sheet that came with them.

The truck now has a blown curb side head gasket, a Sidewinder turbo, and no indication that it ever had a boost gage or an EGT gage installed.. so I have no idea what "boost abuse" the engine saw with stock bolts.

For me.. tear down, inspect, repair, studs, gages.. and run it like I stole it....

stealth13777 · Feb 8, 2015

Yep different part entirely for the 6.9. Still, it's interesting seeing as the heads are basically the same.

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IDIoit · Feb 8, 2015

stealth13777 said:
Yep different part entirely for the 6.9. Still, it's interesting seeing as the heads are basically the same.

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not when it comes to head studs!!!
6.9's are smaller than the 7.3
hence the torque rating difference.
i say run it.

86 f250 6.9 rebuild/refresh advice and questions

stealth13777

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IDIoit

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79jasper

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