redneck ways of getting by until i swap to a zf5

on the 2nd truck in my signature,
i fried the clutch a bit yesterday.
now, the clutch disc is getting pretty thin.
i know it needs to be changed, but i have plans of doing the ZF5 swap,
so i dont want to buy a set up for the t-18. (input shaft diameters differ. i want to do it once only... for now)
one of my really really oki friends suggested that i put a 5/16 nut inbetween the slave cyl rod and the clutch fork.
would this get me by? anyone have some quick fix options?
i just need to get by for a few more months with this truck until i have cash.
i do not tow with it, its my daily around town driver, until i get every little bug worked out and it will graduate to a long distance runner.

ok, im prepared to be slammed. just tell me to replace the f-in thing and be done with it...iknowiknowiknow

A nut under the rod is just gonna make it release further, and possibly not let the pressure plate fully engage. Bad idea. Does it slip when driving normally? if not, just drive it like a sane person til you do the swap. If its not drivable, just do the clutch and then buy the right disc and throw out bearing when the time comes for the swap.
Travis..

Disc only should be cheap.

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79jasper said:

Disc only should be cheap.

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Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking. Just the effort involved to pull it and do the swap.

i apologize for th F bomb!
i know replacing it is the best option,
but if i can get it to last just a bit longer, mabe with a washer or something
i really really dont want to mess with this 4 speed again....
it does not slip, but takes a bit of effort to get it into gear.

Oh.....
In that case, I bet your firewall is flexin, and/or you need the pedal bushings.

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Yes, check for cracked/flexing firewall. Have someone push/release clutch and watch the MC. Bet it moves. Ford makes a kit for this. Small kit and large kit, large goes around whole column and so forth. I used the small and it has been fine for a few years. You could DIY with some 1/4" or larger plate, drill appropriate holes, bolt to firewall. The Ford kits have a 90* bend and bolt to the tunnel as well, not rocket science to make something that'll spread the load and brace it.

If not, a thin/worn disc should release better than a new/ticker. Worn would slip or make noise if rivets are grinding into flywheel and pressure plate. Could always just drive it without the clutch and try to avoid stopping. Been there done that in one car for over a month and in a truck after I had a clutch failure in the woods. Real easy with a granny first even if you gotta stop, starter will turn it over/move the truck easy.

Bottom line is if it's the firewall you gotta fix it either way, if anything else deal with it for a bit if ZF5 is in the immediate future and if it's a ways off you should probably fix whatever is broke since it's your DD.

found the culprit!
the rod for the master is worn like a two dollar call girl.
i adjusted it for now.
looks like ill be replacing that in the near future
on another note..

if i replace the master, im gonna go ahead and replace it all.
however, i can only find a set up for the 94 and up.

are they the same?

new rod, new bushing, and regular grease cna help, but if the pin on the pdeal is worn you'll need to weld it back up and grind it. Another option is to eliminate the cheap factory design and use a heim joint, there is a how-to on one of the truck sites if not here.

There is an article here on the Heim-Joint. I believe that Ron (Dsl_Dog_Treet) has one......

Yep.....

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...Heim-Joint-Mod-Complete!&highlight=heim+joint

thanks guys! ya, i also thought heim joint.
or saying screw it and purchasing all new stuff.
the pin is donski.
the pedal assembly needs to come out and replace the pin with a bolt, to a heim on the master.

or....

finding another truck on the cheap so that i can run d-60's and steering in my 63....
providing parts for other things i need to address.

does any one know what year they changed this style of pedal assmbly?

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...-Std-pedal-assemblies!!&highlight=brake+pedal
Here's the pedal thread.

You may have an adjustable clutch to master cylinder pushrod...I think they are an aftermarket add on(I have one). You could adjust a bit but again, it is just masking the issue. So I agree with what a post said above and just drive it with care and see if it lasts

I'm a lead foot addict.
I couldn't light foot it if I tried.
Yes. That adjuster is there, but the eye hoop on the end
Looks like a tear drop. And the pin on the pedal assembly
Itself is done.
I had to remove the stock clip this morning and add a steel collar
With a set screw. Tightened her up, it seems pretty firm now.
I know it's a temp fix,
I think it's my truck trying to tell me to upgrade to a hydra setup

Lead foot ain't gonna help a thing here.