1990 Ford Bronco 4BT swap

BrandonMag

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Just checked the axle code. It's 3.55.

That looks like a great rig. Only thing I see from the pics is the mounting bracket for the lower radiator hose...re nylon rope...;Sweet

There are a couple of things like that I want to take care of before I start driving it daily.
 

BrandonMag

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Yep. There's some stuff that just ain't quite right... I don't think it's going to be terribly difficult, it's just making the time.
 

BrandonMag

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I just checked mileage: 23.5 mpg... and I wasn't light on the throttle. ;Sweet
 

BrandonMag

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Something I failed to mention earlier: the oil pan gasket leaks like a sieve. Time to roll up my sleeves and get to work. ;Sweet

Picked up a new toy to get started:

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The engine before pressure washing:

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To help release the oily mess, I used these:

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The degreaser went a bit further than I expected, so I hosed down the D44, M5OD, transfer case and rear axle as well.

After the degreaser soaked in for about 20 minutes, I let loose with 3400 PSI of pressurized water. Here's how it ended up:

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Tomorrow morning, the front clip removal begins. Stay tuned.
 
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BrandonMag

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I've been looking forward to tearing into this Bronco since I bought it.

Here's where it was this morning:

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And here's where it is after a few hours of work:

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Started cleaning a 7.3 all-aluminum intercooler I got from RJ a couple of years ago:

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Does anybody know what particular Holset model this is?

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F350camper

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She cleans up nice Brandon! Although I'm a little bummed that the rope radiator hose support is gone, that thing was custom! I'll be following your IC work closely. Red cent will get one soon.
 

BrandonMag

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She cleans up nice Brandon! Although I'm a little bummed that the rope radiator hose support is gone, that thing was custom! I'll be following your IC work closely. Red cent will get one soon.

I shed a tear when I cut that nylon radiator hose support off. :D

The more I think about it, the more involved this is going to be. I may swap out the Holset whatever-it-is for a HX30W. They're supposed to be a great match to the 4BT. I will be installing the intercooler, but it may be awhile.
 

79jasper

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Doesn't look big enough, but seems to be a 35 series by the assembly number.
Type in "holeset" and the serial number into Google.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 

BrandonMag

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Type in "holeset" and the serial number into Google.

I typed "holset" and the assembly # in, and got H1C series. www.invasionautoproducts.com listed the H1C series of turbos as the standard 4BT-issued turbo from 1986 to 2004. There have definitely been some improvements in turbo technology since 1986. I think an upgrade may be in order! ;Sweet

I read about there being an H1C on the 4BTs that was smaller than the H1Cs that came on the 89-93 1st-gen Dodge pickups. If anyone is interested or needs more information on 4BTs, www.4btswaps.com is an excellent source of information.
 
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BrandonMag

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The power steering pump has two returns!

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Gotta love the industrial engine design! I think I'm going to run the hydroboost setup I bought off RJ last year. This thing should stop on a dime. ;Sweet

I've got to do some wiring clean-up in the engine bay:

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Since I'm an apprentice wireman, using the Ford wiring diagrams to determine what can be eliminated will be good practice. (Judging by how little wiring the 4BT has, I think it's going to be most of what's pictured.) If you look closely at the second picture in post #24, you can see the wiring harness that is attached to the backside of the core support hanging down between the sway bar and pitman arm. That thing is ridiculously large. There are all sorts of wires that won't be needed. If I do this right, I think I can eliminate the entire wiring harness and run the few wires that will be needed on the passenger side above the engine against the firewall. I'm going to buy larger clips to replace the factory Ford clips that are used to route the low and high pressure AC lines against the firewall.

My plan as of now for the engine bay: relocate the battery to the driver's side where the radiator overflow/windshield washer fluid reservoir was. I'll need to relocate the starter solenoid and possibly some other things over there, I haven't figured out all the specifics yet. I'll have to run the cable from the battery to the starter to the passenger side, but that's easy. I'm going to build a custom cold air intake in the location where the battery used to reside. I may install a water/**** injection system (just for kicks). Haven't figured out what will go where for that system, though. The AC will be functional, I'll have to buy the bracket and pulley from AutoWorld. This is what I want it to look like:

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This is a pic I found somewhere (when you look around on different forums for ideas as much as I do, it's easy to forget what you saw where). It may be PAPEcat's setup, I can't remember. Credit to the original poster.

Everything but the fuel supply and return lines, the fuel pressure line (for the pillar-mounted ISSPRO gauge), the engine mounts and the transmission are disconnected. My plan was to pull the engine this morning. I stopped by my local Harbor Freight last night to pick up their 2000 lb. engine stand. It was out of stock. They're supposed to be getting more tomorrow. If everything works out like I hope it will, the engine will be on the stand next Friday or Saturday. I think I'll get a whole engine gasket kit, it is leaking from more spots than just the oil pan gasket.

I'll also need to replace the rear transmission mount and the wear parts for the stick shifter. The rear transmission mount I can get from NAPA, but the wear parts for the shifter I'll need to source from All State Gear in San Antonio, TX. I'd post a pic of the page I found with all of the part numbers, but I downloaded it in .pdf format. For whatever reason, flickr doesn't like that format. If anyone is interested, I can post up the part numbers.
 

F350camper

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In the pic of your two returns on the power steering pump, is that an oil pressure switch in the background? I almost wonder if that's leaking based on where some of the gunk is. When those things leak man they really spray everywhere.
At any rate, cool that you have the return for hydro-B. ;Sweet On the ranger since the hvac controls were all cable actuated, I dont even have a vacuum pump. I realized I didnt need one once I converted to hydro boost.
 

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