GP THERMO add-on: Anyone done this/something similar?

I was thinking about an override switch to my GP relay from my dash so I could opt out of them lighting up when I felt like it, but if I could take this guy's theory and work out the kinks... I think this would be a pretty sweet thing to have...

GP thermostat mod:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gk06W-dvuqA

Anybody here ever tried what this guy's trying in the vid?

Successes? Failures? General opinions or warnings...?

My initial change would be to somehow get the thermo sensor to act off the block temp instead of the ambient air temp of engine bay... Maybe a little metal plate that could bolt up to block somewhere in between an existing accessory and it's seat, and then mount thermo to it?

Also... Where would be the best spot on block to get a good baseline heat reading? I was thinking around water pump, or in the valley under air intake behind steel lines...

Seen this video a while ago and I've been thinking about the same thing. I believe this guy tackled it on the high power side with a hot water heater thermostat if I'm not mistaken although watching it I'm not sure if that's the control voltage he's switching or the actual high power side for the GPs. In retrospect I think it has to be the control side based on the size of the wires. I think he talks about having problems once in a while with it not cycling when it needs to when its just luke warm. I've been thinking about going at it from the control side with a temp switch like is on the cold advance on the IP. I would think using head temp or collant temp would solve the problem as that is more directly what we are concenred about. I havn't dove into it yet as my truck is still scattered all over the place but I think thats the route I'm going with a 2 or 3 pos switch to either have it temp controlled, normal, and possibly just manual on.

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I have thought about this myself. No reason to use the gps when engine is warm , thinking they will last much longer if they are not used at every start whether needed or not. I was thinking just a toggle switch to turn them off.???

You could mount a dash DPDT switch going to this thermo setup... That way, when you KNOW the engine is hot enough, you just keep the switch off... When you're not sure... switch it on, and if it's warm enough, the thermo keeps them from running...

... and of course cold start: switch it on, and thermo lets them run... (or switch it off... in this situation, either way they're gonna run)

Some may call that overkill... I say best of both worlds!

Another bonus to this: if the thermostat starts acting up/failing/whatever... You have that DPDT switch there to take it out of the circuit, and go back to your stock mode for GP's...

^^^^ EDIT STATEMENT:

The reason: "That way, when you KNOW the engine is hot enough, you just keep the switch off..."
That defeats the point, since with the DPDT, they would light up with an already warm block, and the switch in "stock" mode...


A three way switch might be better... (STOCK MODE)/(THERMO)/(KILL)

The addition of the kill switch into it is the only way to completely ensure they won't light up, if you want that option... Like PackRat's toggle...

It's either that or a DPDT, preceded by an in-line kill/toggle switch... (if you want lots of fancy switches on your dash... )

At that point why not just use push button to work the relay? Just works and only when you think you need to glow and only for as long as you need to.

dunk said:

At that point why not just use push button to work the relay? Just works and only when you think you need to glow and only for as long as you need to.

Click to expand...

The thermo is in there so if you think you need to, and you're wrong... you don't run them unnecessarily. Like I said, most would call it overkill, but I like options.

This thread is kind of timely. Just yesterday while hunting for some wire clips to do my GP testing, I came across some water heater T'stats I had left over from being in the RV service. The thought was to do just like what the Video is showing. Never seen this Video before. Those t'stats are available at just about any big box store for about $10 or less. With the mounting ears, just bolt it to on some place, the back side is metal and will conduct the engine heat temp. Yeah, you can switch it any way that suits your fancy, even with a lighted switch.

I just use a momentary toggle switch to a solenoid in place of the factory one. After a couple weeks you'll know what temps it will need to be cycled and when it won't.

Unless your like me and get a complicated idea in your head and go ahead and do it anyway just because you can. In that case, totally understandable

What about powering it through the cold advance/high idle temp switch?

Or would that still keep them coming on too often?

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79jasper said:

What about powering it through the cold advance/high idle temp switch?

Or would that still keep them coming on too often?

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Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking too. You would just use that as a signal for a NC relay. I don't know what the temp is but I would guess it would start without the GPs once it's warmed up enough to come off the cold advance.

On edit: you would only need a SPST switch in the circuit to put it back to normal.

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So a line running High Idle signal>SPST>relay[switch terminal], and then Power>relay[in] and relay[out]>GP controller...

I'm assuming this is what you guys are talking about... I like it, since you dont even have to buy a thermo. Just use the engines' since it's already there...

What type of signal does that high idle switch put out? Constant or momentary? I would imagine constant... just like a regular thermostat.

Where is it located? I'd love to go put my meter on it today... get started on this mod.

Haven't mentioned it before, but I build guitar pedals as a hobby, so these electrical mods are super fun to me. I'd love to get a parts list and do a writeup for it if it's successful... maybe just make simple kits on request for $ on the side too...

It's behind the thermostat. Deep down in there.
2 wire plug.

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Ok... That thermo is WAY down in there! To avoid using it, I was thinking: whatever current is controlling the high idle solenoid is probably what I want, since that solenoid should be triggered the same time the glow plugs should, and vice verse... (I'm assuming if the engine is warm enough to not need the high idle and cold advance, that it probably will fire without the GP's... PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong... I'm no expert...)

This is what I was thinking... (no dash switch in the mix yet):



This look right (for a starting point, at least?)

and a secondary question... Anyone think any major damage could be incurred by just going ahead and trying this? I don't see why... It's just a 12v relay...