GP THERMO add-on: Anyone done this/something similar?

[laserjock]

I agree, the cold advance is probably the one to go for. It really might be worth looking into a dedicated switch if it proves that the switching behavior is un favorable (wrong temp or nc vs no).

Don't mind me. It's late. Yes 3 and 6 are there. Duh. I started to dabble in effects pedals but didn't get far. Just didn't have time back then. I'm not against a little complication so long as it serves a purpose. Many of my bugs have become features over the years.


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[79jasper]

The high idle has power anytime the cold advance does, regardless of if you push the pedal or not.
They're fed by the same wire, IIRC.

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[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

Here Here!

Dabbling is where it's at! Institutional learning can only get you so far...

Sometimes you gotta stick your finger in the socket to light your own bulb! ....bzzzzzzt

 

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

The high idle has power anytime the cold advance does, regardless of if you push the pedal or not.
They're fed by the same wire, IIRC.

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They do have constant power, but the pedal definitely pops that solenoid out. I did it about 10 times earlier today....

I thought I saw pigtails, with one wire to the solenoid, and two to the IP... Is all that coming from the thermo plug, or is there a pedal sensor line mixed in there somewhere? How does the accel pedal trigger the solenoid then? Or does it trigger both the solenoid AND the advance? (only when temp is low)

I did pump the pedal with the meter on the solenoid, and got a slight voltage jump when I did... didn't do that test with Amps though... I need to do that. I'd like to know exactly where and how the pedal is affecting these components... I'll share whatever I find when I do.

 

[79jasper]

The pedal itself isn't affecting it. At least shouldn't be.

That thermo switch triggers the cold advance and high idle. When it goes bad, neither will work.

The high idle solenoid isn't strong enough to move the fuel control lever, so I'm sure the voltage jump was from when you pushed the pedal, the load was taken off the solenoid for a second.
Think of a starter spinning a engine vs spinning free on the ground.

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[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

That all makes completes sense now that I think of it...

The pedal made the V spike, only about a volt or so, and for a split second... Which is when the throttle budged the solenoid... A physical movement in a component creating a momentary change.

...and also, now that I remember CORRECTLY: The pedal didn't move the solenoid at all... What I remembered was the solenoid retracting when I removed the power supply from it. DOH!

So it looks like running the relay's 85 pin off the power to the solenoid is just as good as the advance...

 

[79jasper]

IIRC, it opens at 125°F. Not sure, I know Gary knows for sure. (Well pretty sure)

If a person wanted to, they could just get another one of those temp switches and mount it elsewhere. But they're like $75 or so, IIRC.

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[laserjock]

Uhaul has them. It doens't necessarily need to be the IH part. It is after all just a temp switch. I assume it's probably an NPT fitting. Mine didn't work before I tore it down so I assume either the switch or the high idle solenoid was bad. Didn't really cackle like the advance was working either so probably a bad switch.

Okay, so it looks like that switch is closed when cold and open when hot. That makes sense. Need to adjust my sketch so that it pulls the relay in when those are closed in stead of the other way around.

 

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

Wouldn't switching V-in from 87 to 87a do that? Or do you even need to? I thought if it's closed when cold, then that means the relay is being triggered when cold... open when hot, relay is open too, and GPC doesn't run...

I may just be misinterpreting...

I think we both need to test our respective circuit ideas, and then compare notes... I may have time on sunday...

 

[laserjock]

yes i think we are both right. Might take a little time before i can try it. I am just getting my frame finished.

 

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

My meter doesn't go high enough on it's DC amp settings for me to test the GPC's current draw.... Need to find that out so I don't wind up just melting a DPDT.... Any idea where I could find that info? Maybe look for a GPC spec sheet...? If one even friggin exists...

 

[laserjock]

Hopefully OLDBULL is watching this thread. He just built a glow plug test rig that shows what the GP currents are. However, I don't think its an issue because I'm pretty sure all the GP controller does is switch a relay solenoid on the fender for the actually GP current to turn the GPS on and off. So you shouldn't be dealling with 100+ amps but I don't know what that number will be. It's probably a few amps. I haven't dug into a GP controller yet to be honest so I don't really know how it works other than I believe it monitors the current output so that it doesn't melt the GPs down. Not sure how it does that though.

 

[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

These may not answer my amperage question... But they WILL help us in our quest...

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[N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy]

These may be from different years... (disclaimer)

But I'm noticing something... The Red w Yellow stripe in the top pic isn't in the legend on the bottom... Also, it's running from the junction of the lines that feed the fuel shutoff and the temp switch... I wonder if that Red w Yellow is the one we want... and if it is: wouldn't just changing its connection to POST temp switch do what we're looking to do? If we did that, the amps/volts would be guaranteed to work as well, since the feed is the same for GPC and temp switch coming from that split...

If that's true, one SPST rated 12v 5amps would do it... I think. Ahhhh, electronics. It's all good in theory.......

 

[OLDBULL8]

The GP controller itself draws very little current, it's the relay on top of the controller that transfers the battery voltage/current to the GP's, the heating cycle of the GP's is what draws the battery current, the peak current is 196 amps. The glow plug controller circuit is a general circuit. Different year trucks are a little different.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=tfTUka27UVo