N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
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Here's with a switch...
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GP THERMO add-on: Anyone done this/something similar?
- Thread starter N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
- Start date
79jasper
Chickenhawk
None of those attachments are working for me.
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This is what I'm thinking. Depending on the type of temp switch you might have to either do another relay or pick a different switch. I like the NC relay at the controller so that if something breaks, default is stock. Could use the other circuit of a dPDT switch as a hard delete by wiring 12 V to the relay coil via the switch.
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oregon96psd
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This ^^^^^, this is how to do it right. Why does everything on this site have to be halfassed and cobbled together...a water heater thermostat, REALLY?? :***:
Sorry double post.
Not everyone here is a hack. I think the point of the OP was to figure out how to do it right. Completely agree the water heater thermostat is a hack job. Good idea, poor execution.
Not everyone here is a hack. I think the point of the OP was to figure out how to do it right. Completely agree the water heater thermostat is a hack job. Good idea, poor execution.
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
How bout now...?
Judging by laser's snapshot, i'm not far off... May have my pins mixed up though...
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Judging by laser's snapshot, i'm not far off... May have my pins mixed up though...
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
If those didn't work, try this:
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory.png
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory2.png
For some reason uploading images only works half the time for me. I don't know why.
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory.png
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory2.png
For some reason uploading images only works half the time for me. I don't know why.
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Yup, my pins were wrong.... +12v to GP controller should be Pin 30 (+12v IN), Pin 87 (+12v OUT)... and Pin 86 (to GROUND)... my bad.
Final draft:
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory3.png
Final draft:
http://maggiesfarmonline.com/IMAGES/uploads/GPtheory3.png
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
From other threads I read, i thought the diode was a good idea... so no unwanted juice could flow back to the Solenoid/Therm/IP... Just in case.
The diode in my pic was an LED indicator to tell you what state you are in. Again, I made an assumption about what type of switch the temp switch is. Depends on if it is closed or open when hot as to how to do the logic circuit.
Let me work through your pic in my head again but I think that will work. Could always pick another coolant passage somewhere and put in a dedicated temp switch in the head. They aren't that expensive. Hell, for that matter it wouldn't have to go into the coolant passage but I think that would be preferred.
Something else that's good practice when dealing with mechanical relays and electronics is to put a diode between the coil legs. What can happen is that if the coil is active for very long it can actually build up an inductive load of several hundred volts that will spike back through the system when the coil is de-energized. I don't think there is anything too sensitive in this system but it's just good practice.
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Let me work through your pic in my head again but I think that will work. Could always pick another coolant passage somewhere and put in a dedicated temp switch in the head. They aren't that expensive. Hell, for that matter it wouldn't have to go into the coolant passage but I think that would be preferred.
Something else that's good practice when dealing with mechanical relays and electronics is to put a diode between the coil legs. What can happen is that if the coil is active for very long it can actually build up an inductive load of several hundred volts that will spike back through the system when the coil is de-energized. I don't think there is anything too sensitive in this system but it's just good practice.
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Okay, can you walk me through your diagram? If I understand this you have got your toggle switch between the gp controller and the relay? Doesn't that defeat the purpose of the relay? Bear with me I'm going to edit this post several times because I can't see the pic and the reply at the same time.
You are missing 3 and 6 from your drawing. I think I see what you are trying to do. You are setting it up so that in pos 1 the power for the controller goes through the relay diverted that way via the switch. In pos 2 the switch bypasses the relay. That will work but since you are dealing with the power required for the controller (I don't know how much current it pulls on that side) you will have to size everything appropriately. That's why I like doing everything from the control side. You can run micro switches and tiny wire to the switch if you want because the current involved on the control side is tiny. Just gives you more options.
I'm definitely doing this when I get the truck back together. Good conversation.
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You are missing 3 and 6 from your drawing. I think I see what you are trying to do. You are setting it up so that in pos 1 the power for the controller goes through the relay diverted that way via the switch. In pos 2 the switch bypasses the relay. That will work but since you are dealing with the power required for the controller (I don't know how much current it pulls on that side) you will have to size everything appropriately. That's why I like doing everything from the control side. You can run micro switches and tiny wire to the switch if you want because the current involved on the control side is tiny. Just gives you more options.
I'm definitely doing this when I get the truck back together. Good conversation.
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Last edited:
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
The switch is to bypass the relay all together, so yes... I put it there specifically to defeat the relay, so if you want it back to stock you can do it. Definitely not necessary, but not a bad thing in my mind. I like the idea whenever I mod something (auto or guitar) of adding a single switch for the mod, so there's always a way back to the original setup. My insurance...
I've always gotten a rash of **** for doing things more complicated than they need to be done, but every now and then my "complications" turn into advantages in certain situations... I am my father's son.
The diode that I added is exactly for what you said... Current will only flow away from the Solenoid/Therm/IP with it there... No spikes going back.
The switch is between the relay, and GPC simply because that's where I chose to put it. With the diode protecting the pre-relay components, all you need to do is wire pins 3 & 6 on the switch together, and in one position the current bypasses the relay: +12v -> P2 -> P3 -> P6 -> P5 -> GPC, and the other goes through the relay: +12v -> P2 -> P1~relay~P4 -> P5 -> GPC...
It's just a "true" bypass of the relay. At least that's what they call it in guitar pedal and audio circuitry... You could add your LED into the mix right by the switch on the dash, directly from P4 -> GROUND... That way it would only light up when the switch was in relay mode...
I've always gotten a rash of **** for doing things more complicated than they need to be done, but every now and then my "complications" turn into advantages in certain situations... I am my father's son.
The diode that I added is exactly for what you said... Current will only flow away from the Solenoid/Therm/IP with it there... No spikes going back.
The switch is between the relay, and GPC simply because that's where I chose to put it. With the diode protecting the pre-relay components, all you need to do is wire pins 3 & 6 on the switch together, and in one position the current bypasses the relay: +12v -> P2 -> P3 -> P6 -> P5 -> GPC, and the other goes through the relay: +12v -> P2 -> P1~relay~P4 -> P5 -> GPC...
It's just a "true" bypass of the relay. At least that's what they call it in guitar pedal and audio circuitry... You could add your LED into the mix right by the switch on the dash, directly from P4 -> GROUND... That way it would only light up when the switch was in relay mode...
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Missing 3 & 6? How's that? They're wired together on the switch... Top right corner.
I actually already put the meter on the GPC earlier when I tested the High Idle Solenoid... They seemed to have pretty similar readings with the key on, not running... So I figure a proper amp rating on the relay/switch/diode is all I need.
After all my battery/starter woes, I was just happy that I was getting 11.75V!
One thing I was thinking also... The High Idle Solenoid is triggered when you press the accel pedal down (and the thermo is low)... This makes me wonder if the Solenoid wire is the right one to be using for pin 85 on relay... At worst it would mean that you would have to pump the pedal once to get that relay to switch (i always pump once. call it OCD...). It made me wonder if the other line running into the IP for the Cold Advance would be the one to run to the relay... That way, the thermo is still triggering the relay, and at the same temps/values... but you wouldn't have to pump your pedal to trigger it. Thoughts?
Btw... I didn't meter the Cold Advance terminals... So it could be way different. I don't expect it to be though... I'll do that tomorrow, when it's a balmy 3 degrees out.
I actually already put the meter on the GPC earlier when I tested the High Idle Solenoid... They seemed to have pretty similar readings with the key on, not running... So I figure a proper amp rating on the relay/switch/diode is all I need.
After all my battery/starter woes, I was just happy that I was getting 11.75V!
One thing I was thinking also... The High Idle Solenoid is triggered when you press the accel pedal down (and the thermo is low)... This makes me wonder if the Solenoid wire is the right one to be using for pin 85 on relay... At worst it would mean that you would have to pump the pedal once to get that relay to switch (i always pump once. call it OCD...). It made me wonder if the other line running into the IP for the Cold Advance would be the one to run to the relay... That way, the thermo is still triggering the relay, and at the same temps/values... but you wouldn't have to pump your pedal to trigger it. Thoughts?
Btw... I didn't meter the Cold Advance terminals... So it could be way different. I don't expect it to be though... I'll do that tomorrow, when it's a balmy 3 degrees out.
N.E fjord-by-fjord 2fiddy
Full Access Member
Technically, the cob-job was on YouTube...
Just an interesting thing I came across that got me thinkin...
