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Thread: Jeep CJ5/1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel(M90 Blown)

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    Default Jeep CJ5/1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel(M90 Blown)


    Hi everyone.
    New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project, a Jeep CJ5, soon to be with an 1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel. My build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, first Jeep, and is the first diesel motor I have ever owned personally.

    Attachment 34876Attachment 34877

    The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with @ 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but they are out there. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away. And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 368lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy rods and crank, ect...

    Here's a crazy thing: I bought this motor UBER cheap on CL, before I did any research on Jeep transmissions. Or before I had the Jeep. Now, there is an UBER rare Isuzu Rodeo 2.6L I4 2WD 5 spd bell housing that mates MY engine(@ '82 vintage Isuzu Chevette sourced), with a Jeep T5. As in the SAME bolt pattern as the Jeep T5. Haven't looked too deeply into input shaft dia., or clutch components yet. But still, WHAT are the odds of THAT? A VERY kind soul met at an Isuzu forum found one in an AZ pick-your-part, pulled it, mailed it, no money up front.

    Goals of the project are:
    1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly.
    2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
    3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory HP, which is possible.
    4) Reliability
    5) Simplicity
    6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability. And after buying the CJ, and the motor, I am WELL under my goal of > $2,000 so far. And still have plenty $$$ for trans., transfer case, and tires(which I feel will be the pricier items).
    7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 30-40 MPG on the highway, I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby swamper/mudder tires.

    I noticed a Isuzu P'up at another site, that is running an Eaton M90 SC. Works very nice. Used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed inside of the Isuzu "Altitude Compensator". Attachment 34875
    It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw a Ford M90 in, along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.

    Glad I have a Ford M90, as they are much more adaptable...

    However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab pressure oil line, return...
    Prelim rough calculations if I were to use the M90 reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY. I think personally for my project my goals are to get full boost at 5,000RPM(this motor's Red Line), and keep it conservative, as I won't go that high often(hopefully). I'd like to HAVE the power there, available, but actually use it as sparingly as possible(so I don't stand out like a lil ol' lady angering everyone else merging with traffic!) My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable, and 150 lbs torque is fine... And perhaps I could wire up a on/off switch to a A/C clutch, ala Mercedes Benz and/or Mad Max.

    All the project goals are slightly variable, to a point...

    AND, the buddy who lent me the trailer gave me:
    A set of military tailights(one is glass lens!!), a spare tire mount, a Gerry can from 1945( I already have one from '51). He also has a set of 4 NICE chrome 15x7(instead of the 8's that stick out 2+ inches) that he'll sell CHEAP!! Mounted a 235/75R 15 on it, and it's about right. Sticks out from under the tub BARELY. Worried about water "rooster tails" as I go down the road (or trail) with no flares...


    PO called and said he found a set of the military 16x4.5 wheels he'd trade for my crappy 15x8's! Think I'll widen them to @ 7-8", in the future(as $$$ allows). That will really help with the look I'm shooting for, AND help with tire selection, as 15's are slowly going away.

    STILL have to get back down there and pick up my roll bar and axles.



    MAN, I'm having a HARD time finding a CJ5/M38A1 short nose!!!
    Last edited by DieselJeep; 05-18-2011 at 10:43 PM.

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    red dye fuel isnt high supher any more and its not legal to use for street cars because there isnt any highway taxes paid. thats way its cheaper. welcome the form . sounds like you got yourself a project
    1990 f250 extend cab 4x4 fuel tanks moded and a rdt group 31 bats with 4/o red cables and 2/0 black ones ip turned up 1 flat soup bowl is gone more mods to come and running on wmo96 2500 ram packing the old 8.0 chiped and spaced and geting 5 mpg in the city and 12 mpg on the highway

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    thumbsup

    Definitely a project, but it sounds like you've done some research.

    Isuzu builds some pretty good motors, but I'm not familiar with that one. When you finish this you have to promise to up some video and real life results! (0-60 times, top speed, speed up grades, etc...)

    Nothing worse than following a project along and the guy gets it all done and just leaves you hanging on how it all turned out!!

    I maintain this Geep for my wife (actually a '49 Willys):


    Need to go get some updated pics- this weekend I redid the rear ring and pinion, added new shock mounts and put a vintage warn winch on the front. She just keeps gettin' prettier and prettier!
    ________________________________________________
    1957 IH w/6.9L, ATS 088, C-6, GVO, D70U, flatbed C&C.
    ************************************************
    2012 Ram 3500 HO Smoothside dually. Now rocking CNG dual fuel system.

    Other stuff I maintain/tinker on: 2003 Jetta TDI, 1949 Willys, Deuce coupe chopped 3.5", and couple motosickles.

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    Thanks guys, glad to be here!

    Diesel # 2 is lower sulfur, but still MUCH higher than #1.
    And the placard on a #1 pump here in Ohio says required for diesels 1994 and newer, recommended for 1994 and older.
    And it's mostly to thin out my filtered waste oils anyway.
    I highly doubt anyone is gunna question what I burn in a early 70's jeep with a early 80's diesel in it.

    Hell, maybe I'll get an "alternative fuels" tax break!!

    I love to learn new things, and been learnin' alot.

    They really do, second oldest manufacturer of diesels (after MB). Know of any other diesel with a 5,000 RPM factory Redline? THIS one has! Overseas, it was available with a turbo, so there is actually a manifold for one(if you can get it). VERY stout design, relatively common, and uber cheap. Biggest thing is be SURE to replace timing belt before every 50,000 miles.
    It has an OVERHEAD CAM!

    I have a spare motor that runs lined up, and I'll have $700 total in BOTH low mileage, perfectly running motors.

    This build is chock FULL of weird lucky ironies and "good fortune".
    Here's ONE: I bought the motor FIRST, cheap off Craigslist. I had no real idea about trans selection or adapting. And I was terrified to use an Isuzu trans, as they are known to be weak, esp after boost.
    GET THIS: turns out the Isuzu Rodeo 1990-1997 2WD 5 spd, 2.8L I4 gas, had a T5 in it! AND the bellhousing bolts to MY engine, starter in correct location, and to a stock Jeep T5!!! What are the freaking odds I'd buy a diesel randomly off CL, and later find out it will bolt to a stock Jeep trans?

    STILL can't wrap my head @ it.

    I've been reading a lot here:http://www.isuzupup.com/index.php and here:http://forum.planetisuzoo.com/

    Here is a link to a guy in Alaska with the same motor and an M90 in an Isuzu P'up. Funny, I didn't find this till AFTER I had the parts in hand, as I bought engine first. He removed it for horrible economy(I think pulley size, 3PSI at idle), and stock Isuzu 5 spd didn't like the power!! But proves the concept, and ran (very well, watch the videos!).
    http://www.isuzupup.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=12742

    I personally felt a $1200+, 700lb+, underpowered for the weight, thirsty, antique diesel didn't fit my concept. I'll let others put those in theirs.

    It'll keep mine cheaper.

    I'll share info as it comes.
    Speed isn't part of my train of thought these days, so be patient with me. Just want to get to cruise speed easy, and cruise at 70 if need be. If it has the same streetable acceleration as my escort wagon w/5 spd, I'd be content. Very strange for ME to be saying something like THAT! Actually, the math shows MUCH better...

    And, I DO mean before the S/C is installed, running N/A.

    And on the trail, I'll crawl a lil, and winch if I need. No hurry, I'll get there just fine. No need to launch myself, or break parts impressing other males.

    I'll post more pics very soon. Haven't had a chance to do much, but this week major strides are forthcoming.

    I feel ya. I plan on tuning this completely, and completely ironing out any possible glitches. Definitely will share the info...

    SWEET WILLYS!!
    Last edited by DieselJeep; 05-19-2011 at 05:59 AM.

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    Busted tail and took names yesterday, big time.

    Had to clear out half of a barn, 20 years of haphazard misc. stuff; re-arrange toolboxes, table saws, plywood, 2x4's, ect. Mostly by myself.
    Then get the cj in shoved into the barn. Can't let this stupid rain hold me up anymore.

    But I was just getting started!

    I worked till @ midnight, and also managed to get the hood, fenders and grill removed, dash, wiring and steering wheel out, seats, windshield and windshield hinges removed.

    Yes, the tub is now almost completely stripped, and ready to come off.

    It was a very good day's work!

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    were are the pics at?
    1990 f250 extend cab 4x4 fuel tanks moded and a rdt group 31 bats with 4/o red cables and 2/0 black ones ip turned up 1 flat soup bowl is gone more mods to come and running on wmo96 2500 ram packing the old 8.0 chiped and spaced and geting 5 mpg in the city and 12 mpg on the highway

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    There are a couple, if you click on the blue lettering.
    Dunno how I got two build threads.
    The other one actually has the posted pics up without clicking on anything.

    So, the frame is completely stripped. Fuel, brake, emissions lines, steering gear, just about everything.
    Even cut the rivets holding the front and rear cross members out, as they were fairly bent(and front one was even cracked).
    That's kewl though, as it allowed me do do even a better rust abatement.

    This frame is CLEAN! Hardly any pitting...

    After I finish my rust treatment and paint, I'll wheel it outside(to bake in sun), and take some good pics.

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    SCORE!

    A set of fenders, to replace mine that were "radiused"(POORLY) for big tires.
    Will be shaved down the 4 inches required.

    D300 transfer case. Twin stick mod coming, definately!

    $250 for all, and $15 in gas.


    Schweet!


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    SCORE!

    A set of fenders, to replace mine that were "radiused"(POORLY) for big tires.
    Will be shaved down the 4 inches required.

    D300 transfer case. Twin stick mod coming, definitely!

    $250 for all, and $15 in gas.


    Schweet!


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    Quote Originally Posted by DieselJeep View Post
    SCORE!

    A set of fenders, to replace mine that were "radiused"(POORLY) for big tires.
    Will be shaved down the 4 inches required.

    D300 transfer case. Twin stick mod coming, definitely!

    $250 for all, and $15 in gas.


    Schweet!

    Very nice. A D300 goes for more than that alone around here...
    ________________________________________________
    1957 IH w/6.9L, ATS 088, C-6, GVO, D70U, flatbed C&C.
    ************************************************
    2012 Ram 3500 HO Smoothside dually. Now rocking CNG dual fuel system.

    Other stuff I maintain/tinker on: 2003 Jetta TDI, 1949 Willys, Deuce coupe chopped 3.5", and couple motosickles.

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    Just got a call back from a Guy I contacted on CL few weeks ago.

    Spare D300, $100!!

    I really need to start taking photos...

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