manual tank selector valve

LCAM-01XA

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I think my electric tank selector got stuck on the front tank as far as return lines circuit goes, there ain't no way I'm getting 5mpg with no white or black smoke out the stack, misfires under the hood, or heavy load behind the truck! Does anyone make a 6-port manual selector valve? How can one be obtained? If not, what do y'all with them manual valves use, and where did you get it from? Thanks!
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Here you go; best prices I could find:




https://www.flowline.net/default.as...Direction=&SearchKey=SK115343PM&CurrentPage=6


I use two of #6747.


They are THREE-tank compatible and cost about the same as the two-tank ones; you can just plug one of the ports or use it to plumb in a drain or something.

I have three tanks.


They do make manual six-ways and eight-ways, but the stem is so long that it soon snaps from the strain of turning both ball-valves.

I had much rather have two seperate valves, plus there are some advantages to being able to direct the return fuel to a tank different from the one you are drawing from.


The place to locate the valves is in the area of the floor between driver and door = out of the way and easily accessible while driving.

I always orient the valves such that the little pointer points forward for FRONT and aft for REAR.


You will also need to incorporate a SPDT switch (or was it a DPDT--I can't remember if it was three or six wires) to switch the gauge-sender signals.

I put this switch in the same area, behind the manual valves, also oriented such that the toggle points fore for FRONT.



I wouldn't let someone swap my manuals for a bulletproof foreverlasting :puke:electric valve and give me a thousand dollars to boot, if part of the deal was that I couldn't ever change back to manual.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Thanks for the info sir. So your valves are made of what material? Also how does the lever work, fore-up-aft positions, 90 degrees apart?
 

RLDSL

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Here you go; best prices I could find:




https://www.flowline.net/default.as...Direction=&SearchKey=SK115343PM&CurrentPage=6


I use two of #6747.


They are THREE-tank compatible and cost about the same as the two-tank ones; you can just plug one of the ports or use it to plumb in a drain or something.

I have three tanks.


They do make manual six-ways and eight-ways, but the stem is so long that it soon snaps from the strain of turning both ball-valves.

I had much rather have two seperate valves, plus there are some advantages to being able to direct the return fuel to a tank different from the one you are drawing from.


The place to locate the valves is in the area of the floor between driver and door = out of the way and easily accessible while driving.

I always orient the valves such that the little pointer points forward for FRONT and aft for REAR.


You will also need to incorporate a SPDT switch (or was it a DPDT--I can't remember if it was three or six wires) to switch the gauge-sender signals.

I put this switch in the same area, behind the manual valves, also oriented such that the toggle points fore for FRONT.



I wouldn't let someone swap my manuals for a bulletproof foreverlasting :puke:electric valve and give me a thousand dollars to boot, if part of the deal was that I couldn't ever change back to manual.

After last weekend, I'm ready to grab a couple of those puppies. I was up in Illinois/ Michigan with a 150 gallon bed tank full of unbelievably watery southern fuel fighting icing problems , bucking and jumping down the road, and my nice new electric selector valve was totally useless, not enough oomph to overcome the ice to switch over to the tail tank with some decent fuel in it. Ended up putting it in the shop to get the tank drained off and give the selector valve time to thaw out.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Yah, tis too darn cold to be running fuel lines and stuff now - I covered up my issue by ditching both stock tank vents and running 1/2" hose between the two tanks, this way when the front one tops out it will not spill out the filler neck but will overflow to the rear tank (which is where the fuel should have gone to begin with). Both my filler neck caps work fine as far as venting goes, so pressure build-up should not be an issue.
 

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