Rotor & Other Questions?

[HammerDown]

That last 10% getting the spindles broken loose is 90% of the work!

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Question, in order to replace the upper & lower Ball Joints that knuckle must be removed correct?
Well, last year I had all ball joints removed and the shop was shocked that part came off pretty easily > maybe because 10 years prior another shop replaced the u-joints and everything had a nice coating of Antiseize on them.
So...I'm guessing-hoping that when my ball joints were replaced last year the inner bearing was greased.

 

[79jasper]

Yes sir.
Have to, to get the axle shafts out.

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[tbrumm]

When I tore down both spindles to change the knuckle u-joints, I made sure I put antiseize on the spindle flanges and on the knuckle. My ball joints were fine at the time, but I am hoping the antiseize pays off when I eventually have to replace the ball joints. I replaced those little inner spindle bearings at that time, and it took my slide hammer and hook attachment to get them out of the spindle. All the while I was doing it though, I was thinking about how much all that labor would have cost me if I would have had a shop do the work. That made all the tough work worth it!

 

[HammerDown]

Ya know what sucks...replacing all front bearings, races, new rotors and new brake pads...and then come to find one new/reman caliper is hanging-up and dragging. Maybe it's the brake hose but when swapping out the calipers brake fluid was pouring out of the hose.

Also...the other 'drivers side' caliper (both five years old) works fine...HOWEVER...the bleeder is frozen solid and if forced will snap-off!
*** > Grrrrrrrrrr!

 

[79jasper]

When the rubber line has bad, usually fluid flows out fine, but won't flow back in.

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