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    Turn signals only work sometimes…

    Maybe it's part of the safety or navigation feature? Do they only not work when trying to make an illegal u-turn or going the wrong way on a one way? But seriously seems like a good excuse to invest in a power probe. I'd start at the ignition or headlight switch as previously suggested. Also...
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    Glow plug stuck

    Definitely don't leave it in there. If it's swollen, only a matter if time until the tip drops and contacts a piston. I'd either remove the heads, use a speciality tool like @Nero suggests or maybe drill it out depending on the particular situation. Whatever you do, just don't be like me...
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    DTI Tech Time issues

    For sure look into magnetic probe placement as other users have suggested. But also, how close are you getting it to 2000 RPM and how long are you holding it there? My unit can be very fickle if I'm not holding the throttle very stable at 2000 +/- ~20 RPM. You could try adjusting the AVG...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Oh and here is a quick video explanation of using that meter. To go along with the written explanation here. https://www.oilburners.net/threads/how-to-set-the-timing-on-your-6-9-or-7-3-idi-and-how-to-buy-timing-equipment.91235/
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    To add to what @Rdnck84_03 said: It works on either cause they are 180*. Even using cylinder #1 the timing mark passes the magnetic pickup twice for every combustion cycle. But since the meter is reading injector line pressure it only "sees" the timing mark during the compression stroke. With...
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    Cup holders

    Yeah, from scratch is probably the only way to go. If you aren't comfortable with your wood mangling skills, go to your local thrift store armed with a tape measure. You may find something to "modify."
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Glad to hear it is already performing better! Hopefully you'll see a bit of an improvement Monday as well. As long as it's diving good enough, I wouldn't worry too much about it right now anyway since you have a timing meter in the mail! :cheers:
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    Water Methanol?

    I'm not super knowledgeable about water m3th injection, but I've been looking into it. I'm considering using it as a method to prevent coking when running on alternative fuels. It's a pretty complicated system when done right, but can add a lot of power for folks with turbos. There is also some...
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    Need help identifying a knock

    I'm not 100%, but I believe the 6.9, 7.3, and 7.3t flywheels were all balanced differently. That's why I figure it's always best to get them matched. But if the knock is just the same now as it was before the transmission swap then it sounds like that ain't the problem anyway. Have you used a...
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    Automatically priming fuel system hack

    Don't talk about my friend the mechanical fuel pump like that! Lol But yeah, it's a bit of a niche situation for sure. The main reason is that I plan to convert this rig to burn WVO, and I want to keep the mechanical fuel pump because I know it will work well for that. The other reason is...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Sounds like you've already got it tightened back up and running. If you decide to advance it more , you can still safely go a dimes width or so from where it was originally. That square knob thing on the body of the injection pump just above the top bolt holding the IP to the gear cover is made...
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    Need help identifying a knock

    I read through your ZF5 install thread. Specifically: You mentioned you had the knocking before the tranny swap, but I wonder if it could be two unrelated issues? Does the knock that's happening now sound and act the same as before? I could be totally off base, but it sounds like you may...
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    Automatically priming fuel system hack

    Since the pump relies on a functional GP controller, it may be less that ideal to hook it up to one that has been bypassed. It would be difficult to know if the pump was running or when it has shut off if the wait to start light has been disabled. Since this is intended to be temporary, I used...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    If I recall correctly a dimes width should give you around 3-5* advance, s I don't think it would hurt to do a little more than that. However... A dimes thickness is about all you can move the pump without needing to loosen the hard lines coming of the back of the IP. So that depends on how...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    I agree with the conclusion of air intrusion likely not being the cause. These fuel systems are designed to work with a certain amount of air in the lines. You'll pickup air and see bubbles in the line just from driving and sloshing the diesel around in the tanks. I imagine it would have to be a...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Excellent decision! I have the same meter, and have been very happy with it.
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Actually means a good deal. Tells you that is the original IP, and likely the original injectors as well, and that the timing has never been adjusted. After 85k it almost certainly could use some advanced.
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Yeah, a dimes width rotation towards the passenger fender should give you a few degrees advance and would be fine to try. I'd recommend scribing a line across the IP and IP gear housing BEFORE you loosen the nuts holding the pump. Then you can see how far you have moved it and easily set it back...
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    The timing advance solenoid is not designed to be used at speed and I would recommend against using it in the way you suggest. You should be able to notice a difference in haze at idle just by energizing the timing advance solenoid without needing to drive with it on. After rereading your...
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    Automatically priming fuel system hack

    Oh, forgot to mention, If the engine has sat for long enough for it to energize the fast idle solenoid, then you'll also be priming the IP housing. :cool:
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    Blue Smoke at cold idle, White smoke after descent/climb (air intrusion)

    Yeah, definitely less room to work in there. And just to be clear, I don't think moving the fuel filter will fix your problem, but may be something worth doing if you have the time. There was actually a Ford service bulletin about the check failing in that fitting, and a potential solution was...
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    Automatically priming fuel system hack

    I finally managed to fix all my fuel leaks, but I'm still dealing with an air intrusion issue. After sitting for a while, usually overnight, she starts and then dies after a couple of seconds. Then I have to crank for a while to get it started again. Afterwards it runs rough for a minute, then...
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    AC/Heat Not Blowing Air when starting up or idle

    Definitely check the vacuum pump. With hydroboost brakes, you may not have noticed a poorly performing vacuum pump. It should be able to pull 21 inches plus at idle. A lot of times a failing pump will pull little to no vacuum at idle, but will otherwise seem to work fine once at speed. If you...
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    Need help identifying a knock

    How are the clearances and engine mounts? Could be part of the turbo piping or transmission housing contacting the frame or firewall?
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    Rear taillight wiring question

    Sounds right to me. Here is a diagram that may help, but things could be different if someone has got into it before you. It's kinda expensive, but for situations like this a Power Probe is worth every cent.

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