Hey guys, so a while back I was active on this forum when I had my 89 idi. Now I have a 97 F250 HD 4x4 that I’ve been working on. I just finished replacing the ball joints and as I was taking the hubs apart I noticed that some of the internals look pretty worn. Does anyone sell a whole kit with...
My
My biggest issue is the fact that I’m in the middle of putting my 6.9 back together as well. The wife’s really enjoying 2 trucks that don’t run sitting in the driveway lol
Also, this is the torque wrench I used.
It fit fine on everywhere on the studs using either a regular or deep well socket. I was actually shocked at how easy it was torquing them down.
So here is an update. All studs were torqued to 110 ft/lbs. I torqued to 40, then 60, then 80, then 100 and finally 110. I have cleaned and installed push rods as well and getting ready for heater box. Finally seeing a light at the end of the tunnel.
The male part of the flange goes on the inside of the pan and through the hole where you then screw the female “nut” on to the male threads from the outside.
So I’ve read multiple ideas and thoughts on this subject but really need some advice from someone who has done this job. My 97 F250 HD is leaking from the dipstick flange on the side of the oil pan. There is also some rust spots that I want to take a look at, may need to replace pan. I am...
I’d say if they put bolts back in they probably didn’t clean them. With studs you have to chase thoroughly or you will have clearance issues with rocker arms.
Ya I would think after all that work you would want to do head gaskets as well. It only makes sense to me. Plus as idibronco mentioned, there is a lot of #### in those holes.
So I’ve now got the driver side head studs torqued down to 80 ft/lbs. My question is if I plan on turbocharging this engine, what is my max torque I can apply to these studs/heads?
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