I bought an IP from them and have put 1000 miles on it. It dies if I let off the gas pedal and push in the clutch - every time. I've let it sit with treatment in it several times, but it still does it.
I don't have time or money to change it. So I just drive the truck carefully... But stopping...
Thanks guys.
This information is exactly why I appreciate this site.
I will seal up leaks in the pre-turbo exhaust. If that doesn't bring the boost up enough...I'll pull the turbo and check the hot-side wheel.
Not having luck finding parts for the turbo online. Anyone know a site for parts? I'm curious how much it would be to replace the hot wheel (if it turns out to be shot).
Typ4... the hot side wheel is something I haven't thought about. How do I check it? Do I have to pull the whole turbo?
By the way, I'll be in your neck of the woods this weekend... riding Winchester bay July 14-17. That's why I want to get this fixed... so I can haul the toys down.
The muffler is not plugged. I was worried about that, so I had the downpipe and new high flow muffler installed last week.
I was hoping that would bring my boost numbers up, but it didn't.
I am reading as many articles about EGTs as I can. In the mean time, maybe someone can help diagnose this issue with my truck.
All of my truck info (that I can think of) is in my signature.
With an empty truck, I can quickly see 1100 or more on big hills and my boost is around 3-4 psi. There...
RESOLVED !
Blind Driver 2 hit the nail on the head.
My starter was not turning over fast enough.
Upon researching cranking speed and causes, I found my battery cables to be suspect.
$80 2/0 cables from O'Rielly's Auto, arrived at the store same day as ordered.
Installation time: 30...
OK... I'm going to go after timing and new battery cables. Not sure which order I'll complete them, but those are good places to start.
I picked up a ferret timing adapter when i got the truck because I knew I'd need one. I can knock out the timing pretty easily I suspect, since I have the...
OK, fair enough, that's two folks that say timing will cause hard start when block is cold and allow good start when block is warm.
It seems odd to me that I should do dynamic timing before the truck will even start on its own. But I am a novice when it comes to diesels.
Blind driver,
the more I think about it, the more I am starting to agree that the cranking may be the next place to look. My battery cable/cables are not original. There is some corrosion. I think it turns over well enough, but it doesn't crank like a "Honda gasser."
I suppose the warm...
More information...in case it helps:
I can disconnect the hot lead to my glow plug controller, eliminating glow plugs altogether, and the truck fires right up as long as the block is warm. If the block is cold, no start or very hard start.
Upon startup, I get a puff of grey smoke, followed...
Blind Driver,
I am pretty sure that I am getting good cranking. I don't have another engine to compare it to. I have a portable battery booster and with two fully charged batteries the battery booster does not make any difference in the cranking speed. So I think my batteries are good. My...
Towcat,
I am curious to hear your diagnosis of why my engine starts great when it is warm (block heater or otherwise), but not starting when cold. You seem to lean towards dynamic timing? Can you elaborate on why?
My thought process was to get the engine to a point where it would start...
Resolved: Cold Starting issue
Jump to 13th post below for solution... look for bold, red "RESOLVED" written at top of post.
I am running out of energy, as I have been working on this truck for two months now with no success.
Purchased a 94 7.3 IDI with factory turbo about two months ago...
I am trying to put the cover back on my IP - and I want to follow the warning from the Tech article about having the FSS arm in the correct place.
I do get a clicking sound... but I can take the cover off, apply ground and power to the cover, and I will still get a clicking sound (as the arm...
Thanks guys,
the plate needed to be ground at the bottom. I took a closer look and it was not seated flush because the bottom was getting hung up on a lip.
Ground it down... threw it back on for test fit... no leaky : )
I just installed a block-off plate over the hole from my old fuel pump (lift pump) and I can't get it to stop leaking oil. The leak is pretty bad too.
At first I just used the plate and supplied gasket... Leaked!
Next I used the gasket plus black RTV... Leaked again!
What are other folks...
Update: I pulled the #2 and #4 injectors, cleaned them both, and swapped them.
For whatever reason... that stopped the leak.
After running the truck for about 10 minutes at idle, I noticed the #6 cap is just barely leaking...but enough that it bubbles after I shut the truck off.
And so...
Thanks for the info Wyreth.
A couple things you mentioned are ideas that I have not heard or read about before... but they make sense. Especially about having a clogged return line - causing the weakest link to fail.
I will say this, and I hope others will share their experiences... The...
Oh I did do the whole set.
I put in all new stage one injectors (from DPS), an IP (from Pensacola), and a full return line kit (also from Pensacola). As a side note, Pensacola sent me the wrong return line kit. They sent the ones for the 6.9, but it didn't really matter, it wasn't hard to...
Still leaking!!
I've replaced o-rings (Viton), caps (from other non-leaking injector), and lines.
I can't stop this leak!!!
It's at the base of the plastic cap, not at the top of plastic cap or top of metal nut. It's a good leak too.
I'm gonna swap O-rings again, and then the whole...
Of course I can't find it now, but I have read in several places that the 7.3 lines are shorter (all 8 of them) due to an emissions issue, and that if you mix 6.9 and 7.3 hard lines your timing won't be accurate.
Perhaps that's opinion, rather than fact. But I thought I would ask the question...
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