Update... for giggles I double dosed with Howe's and made it through the low single digits without a hiccup... AND... I never even plugged her in.
After a 12 second GP burn she lit right off, started like it was summer.
Maybe I'll go back to adding the TCW3 back in for lube and hope...
Thanks for the feedback, being I had it and in preparation for the weekends single digit temps I double dosed the Howes.
However, very disappointing to see that video showing how poor it is with adding lubricaty... even worst vs straight diesel!
For years I added Walmart two-stroke Tcw3 to my...
Anyone else using this product?
Years ago I was all about Power Service but saw this at the local Walmart for less $.
Some very low single digit Temps coming here this weekend and I certainly don't want to get stuck.
Update... AutoZone part #C1247 (front brake cable) pictured above worked just fine on my 1988 155" wheelbase F250.
While installing I had some worries as it's some 5" shorter vs the OE cable I took out.
I also cleaned and used a graphite 'drying' lube on all moving brake-pedal assemble parts and...
FYI... Auto Zone part #C1247 in my above post worked just fine.
While installing I had some serious concerns as it's some 5' shorter vs the OE front cable.
Also, I used a graphite cable lube that 'dries' on all moving brake pedal assembly parts... everything is working like new.
Removed my e brake assembly and the pencil points to the area that needs a squirt of WD40 etc and it will start ratcheting again.
Now I need the front brake cable for my 155" wheel base 1988 F250.
Getting the OE cable out front the floor was a ****.
I read a review that ... 'it's about 117 long."
However, that's not for 'my' year, it doesn't have the protective conduit where it runs through the floor or the rubber plug that seals the cab floor... it looks nothing like what I have.
Comment and a question:
Comment... for those wondering 'why' their pedal stopped ratcheting when depressed, the pencil points to where a squirt of WD40 is needed and it's fixed!
Question... my 1988 F250 has a 155" wheelbase and my OE cable measures 117" long.
However, Rock Auto and Autozone...
Just replaced BOTH rear parking cables and now the main/front cable must be hanging-up... depress pedal (no ratcheting sound) and the pedal flops.
I have to go under truck and physically pull the main cable and the pedal returns to up-position.
So... is it difficult to unbolt the parking brake...
What a coincidence... I just replaced BOTH rear parking cables and now the main/front cable must be hanging-up.
So... is it difficult to unbolt the parking brake assembly to clean/lube and install a new front cable?
OE had 4-prongs holding the cable end in-TIGHT to the rear Drum Plate.
The Dorman made in China 'garbage' only has 2-prongs and isn't a snug fit at all.
And... the springs are 1/2" too long, I had to cut the excess off.
And this is why you need to replace BOTH rear cables at the same time (aftermarket Dorman) isn't a direct match
But even what's in the box is wrong... like it's boxed wrong.
Since I bought her new in 1988... until now, zero issues with those cables.
I'm thinking a spring in the shoe 'may' have broken, but all those parts are only a few years old.
It appears my top cable (pass-side) isn't behaving properly... I get very little movement out of it. Lower cable (drivers side) I can pull by hand and it returns just fine.
#1 are these cables available separately?
#2 is there a way to free it up?
#3 possible issue in the drum/shoe area, maybe...
Never EVER noticed this before but at the bottom of a brand new 2-gallon sealed jug of Super Tech 15/40 I notice what looks like micro copper flakes.
The video wouldn't load, too big.
What the heck is that about?
My bad, could have swore I saw $78.00 on my cell.
But now on my Laptop I'm seeing $20.99
I have a decent 'crimper' but more for butt connectors.
I don't want to wait for a delivery... I'll check out what Hope Depot or even Harbor Freight may have to offer.
Just saying, in person those male/female pins are small, fragile looking and thin. For that multi connector 18 gauge wire may be fine 'but' the OE wires going in/out of my original wiring harness/connector sure seems thicker then 18 gauge. (not referring to the four heaver 10 gauge GP wires)
If you recall: my engine harness plug at the heavy Glow Plug wires fried so, I just got in the multi-pin connector AND the heaver RED connector for the four -10 gauge GP wires that some suggested.
However... the male/female pins on the 12-pin connector look extremely thin/tiny and delicate like...
Update... until the Amazon power/disconnect arrives, I isolated the big yellow wires and also put new eyelets on the burnt wires at the fender mounted relay.
Cleaned up all connections, used heat-shrink, kept my fingers crossed and the old girl started like the day I bought her new in 1988...
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