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  1. onetonjohn

    Newbie here!

    A better question might be "what should I check before I buy so that I don't need to spend a lot of money after I buy a truck". Google this and you should come up with a good list that includes engine & trans condition, tires, fuel system, lights, blinkers gauges, fuel switch, the list goes on...
  2. onetonjohn

    Did I get a good deal?

    Any rust? None of my business, but why put another 1k in it for injectors and injection pump if it runs OK now? One thing I noticed is that the front clip has been changed, I would check that the previous owner just liked the OBS front clip and ensure it wasn't in a collision.
  3. onetonjohn

    New Owner Learning Curve, Strange Sound

    +1 for Automotive Stethoscope, but you can use a socket extension as well. Just put one end on what you want to listed to and the other up to you ear with your fist. Be careful there are no moving parts around that it can get caught on or hit (like the fan) - you don't want the extension being...
  4. onetonjohn

    1984 6.9 fuel not goin from ip to injectors

    Might be a dumb question, but could it be off a Chevy and not for a idi? I thought I read on here that they run the opposite direction. Am I off in the weeds here?
  5. onetonjohn

    timing cover gasket or RTV?

    Can you share a picture of the timing cover gasket(s)? I've got an engine builder kit, and I don't think it came with the timing cover gasket. I was assuming I needed to use RTV, but now I'm thinking maybe I don't know what the gasket looks like.
  6. onetonjohn

    Adding pyrometer to 6.9

    I've got the manifold on the bench so should be able to get all the chips out. Is there a particular brand sensor you recommend?
  7. onetonjohn

    Adding pyrometer to 6.9

    Where do you add the pyrometer sensor? I read that I should drill and tap the manifold just before the collector (flange where the exhaust manifold dumps into the exhaust system), but my machinist said unless it was bossed, you didn't have enough steel there to secure the threads. Thoughts...
  8. onetonjohn

    What do you torque 6.9 idi with ARP head studs (plan to run turbo later).

    I noticed later model 7.3 head torques to 100 (non-turbo) or 110 for turbo.
  9. onetonjohn

    What do you torque 6.9 idi with ARP head studs (plan to run turbo later).

    Sorry in advance if this have been discussed before (I know I've seen it), but search isn't pulling anything up and I want to torque this down. My manual says 80ft/lbs in 4 steps. (40,70,80,80) ARP says three steps to 80ft/lbs. I'll swear that I've seen that you get the ARP studs so you can...
  10. onetonjohn

    Valves recessed to far bad?

    Disclaimer: Not a machinist specializing in IDI. That said, from a layman's perspective, .004 inch is the thickness of a couple sheets of paper. If things were this tight, wouldn't carbon buildup be an issue?
  11. onetonjohn

    Anybody rebuild starters?

    Is there a good source for quality brushes, bushings, and bearing that we need for this assuming the winding are good? Just curious. I don't know where to go for this type of part.
  12. onetonjohn

    Rebuild engine with rust in coolant, worth it.

    I can only speak for a 6.9 rebuild. For that, I would avoid rebuilding the early casting number block with the potential to crack at the block heater. I would also run the later 6.9 heads (again, check casting numbers) that are less prone to cracking. My guess is that you will spend close to...
  13. onetonjohn

    PSA

    Ah. Now I see it. Top view with the top left of the image is the tower where the shifter bolts in. Thanks for the heads up.
  14. onetonjohn

    PSA

    Shift tower boot seals too good, builds up pressure in the trans, and pushes oil out the front seal? Where is the diff vent you added? Is it the freeze plug looking thing in the other photo? Can you zoom out, so I can see where we are talking about. Is this 4x4 trans with transfer case, or 2wd?
  15. onetonjohn

    valve to piston clearence?

    Tom posted some specs about halfway down on page 3. I don't know how to link to the post, but here's a link to the thread. https://www.oilburners.net/threads/new-user-with-2-1986-f350s.82511/page-3
  16. onetonjohn

    Yet another diesel convert

    Nice looking truck.
  17. onetonjohn

    Ignition "thing" Broke

    Weird (to me) it broke with a new switch. I thought they broke cause the switch got still and it was too hard to push. If your's broke with new switch - it must be something else.
  18. onetonjohn

    Towed this today

    Nice van. Must be running good. My truck slows to about 40 pulling uphill.
  19. onetonjohn

    Yet another diesel convert

    Welcome to the forum.
  20. onetonjohn

    Ignition "thing" Broke

    Tilt wheel? You can pick up that actuator arm pretty reasonable at local parts store, although I remember it being kinda a pain to get in there. Check that your switch slides freely. I think they get stiff over time and break the little arm. Lube it up, check that everything slide freely...
  21. onetonjohn

    What size tire y'all running

    I"m running 285 75 16 on the brown truck in my picture. It's a stock F350. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here, but I think the F350 has a little more lift (2"?) than the F250. Tires don't rub at all. I'm running Cooper ST-MAX (AFAIK made in 'merica) and I"m pretty happy with them.
  22. onetonjohn

    Battery Cables

    One think I forget to mention is (if you make your own cables) that welding wire is not the same as battery cable. Although it is designed to carry large current, it doesn't have the same oil resistance or temperature rating. I also haven't seen it in red. The battery cable is more...
  23. onetonjohn

    Battery Cables

    There must be a trick to solder terminals. Del City has the solder plug sold with the terminal. That might prevent the over solder problem mentioned above. All the factory terminal a soldered, so it can't be all that bad. That said, they may have some way to preheat the entire assembly (like...
  24. onetonjohn

    Battery Cables

    Using some heat shrink wrap at the terminal to cable connection makes the ends look clean (you can get it in both read and black so it matches). It probably also help protect/seal the connection. On thing about the solder type posts is that you don't have the exposed wires on the terminal side...

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