Here is the exhaust system from Dynomax. I already made one improvement to the system. The system comes with mostly 3 inch from the y pipe to the muffler then 4 inch out to a 5 inch tip. I bought an extra piece of 4 inch tubing so now it has 4 1/2 feet of 3 inch tubing and 4 1/2 feet of 4 inch...
So I took a look on Jegs the other day and they had them in stock so I ordered it up. When the exhaust comes in I will be posting pictures of removal of the old exhaust and install of this one. The reason I went this route is my local exhaust shop wanted to charge $600 to do the exhaust the same...
Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it with jackstands. Remove the front wheel.
Remove the caliper assembly and support it on the frame with a piece of wire without disconnecting the brake fluid hose.
Remove the hub and rotor assembly.
Install the rotor in the reverse order of...
After market stuff will always be hit or miss. I replaced my worn out vacuum pump with Dorman 904-808 and it has been working very well for a long time now.
When I pull the pulley out to have it line up with the water pump it hits the other belt in the picture. Also as it sits now power steering pulley lines up with the crank pulley.
As some of you know Dark thread cutting oil has a very high sulfur content. Could adding a small amount of this type of oil to our ultra low sulfur fuel make it better for our old diesels that love sulfur in the fuel.
Now, this is just a question and not something that I have done nor am I...
I do retrofits all the time from R12- R134a and it always takes way less to fill the r-12 system with r134a that what the books will tell you it takes to do.
This is the only thing that gets hung up when trying to put the dipstick back into the tube. It is a lip at the top of the dipstick itself around 6-8inch from the handle.
When you parked it did you leave the emergency brake on? If you did it could have locked the brake shoe onto the drum, causing the issue. The way to get the drum off the shoes would be to use a pry bar and hammer to break the bond. Or get yourself a hub grappler from OTC for $100 and use that.
I just adjusted my key on setting to 1.10volt. Engine not running. It will sweep to 3.50Volts now. So I lost .08 Volts at WOT. When I adjusted it down to the 1.10volts. It shifts much nicer now than at 1.2V
Replaced my FIPL and connector today. As the old ones were falling apart. I have it set at 1.2V at idle and when doing a sweep it only goes to 3.58v at WOT. Is this correct? I could have sworn it was supposed to get to 3.8V.
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