From Mel on another thread.
All of our fuel ratings are guaranteed spot on at 1400 RPM. As the RPM's climb, the fuel curve does start to drop off after 3000 RPM. Most pumps will make within 5cc of the advertised spec at 3000. Once you get to 3300, it starts to drop off sharply by design...
I punched about 6 holes with a cheap #2 Phillips head sharpened to a point. 3/16ths holes or so. I have had no problems with oil drain back. Slathered some rtv around the tube base when I stabbed it in the grommet. Dry up to this point!
Glad I'm not the only one who thinks this way. I tried the peacocks, and took them right back out 2 days later. Just seems like something else to fail/break/corrode. It ain't that hard to me to grab some extensions and zip those plugs out.
Lots of information at the top of this forum. You can read for hours.
Start here!
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?5467-IDI-Forum-Frequently-Asked-Questions-FAQ
And here
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?13506-IDI-Forum-FAQ-Part-2
Which banks kit are you looking at? If it is the newer sidewinder kit(with the cone filter, not the big square air box) there is no difference. Pulled my kit from an e4od truck and mounts it on my zf equipped truck. Should clear a c6 as well.
Here is a set for sale from a great member here. I have bought from him before and I thought about buying this set!
Go ahead, you won't find a better price either, I have looked.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?74339-FS-6-9-amp-7-3-Corteco-and-IH-Head-Gaskets
I know you want to get the idle screw fixed properly, but also, that high idle solenoid IS adjustable.
With it engaged....engine cold....turn the plunger head with a 1/4 in wrench. It will adjust in and out, might help with your problem.
It sounds like a bad booster to me. Time for another one.
It may be time to swap in a hydroboost brake system from an f-superduty. There are many threads on here. If you are tired of an crappy pedal feel, the hydroboost will forever fix that.
To me, it is the best mod I have done to my...
Man, I didn't even notice that! Some people's children. Right!
Glad you were able to fix them up for you.
Rustygold, I doubt you will get any better mileage. I know I don't. The gears are killing you. If I keep my 4.10 equipped truck under 60, I can get 17 or so, but speed it up...
I know the truck you are talking about! Idioit has the valve covers now. You don't need the injectors. You will need the exhaust up and down pipes as well as the turbo and the turbo pedestal it is bolted to. That truck has a janky looking home made air filter too.
As far as th valve...
That's not thread sealer. That is antisieze. Different animal. Get some black rtv and put it on the threads, then torque the bolts to 47 ft/lbs.
Those wires go to the fuel heater and filter head on the 7.3. Your 6.9 filter head is different.
If you have the flywheel, and flywheel spacer, you can swap it over onto the 6.9. Be sure to use thread sealer on the bolts and use the bolts from the 7.3 as well to be sure they don't protrude too far into the crankcase.
If you have the glow plug controller from the 92, it would be easier...
Several things you need to do.
Check battery voltage while trying to crank the starter.
Check all your grounds and positive cables for a GOOD clean connection.
Put a brake bar on the crank nut and see if the engine will turn over by hand.
I bet you have bad battery...
Wish I knew which relay it was Gary. Mine having a zf swap, I have never had any issues with it. I still have the TECA, and if my relay quit, the tach would too, but it hasn't yet.
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