The vacuum dump valve should be mounted at the top of brake pedal on a bracket next to the m/c push rod under the dash. I don't have a picture handy but I'll see if I can dig one up.
I’m 95% sure he’s working on the truck in his avatar as that’s the one he’s been discussing in other recent threads which means it’s the vacuum version. But you’re right, it should have been asked before I assumed.
Are your write ups by chance posted in the tech section or somewhere else?
The EVTM manual for your year has a pretty through diagnosis in it if you can get your hands on one. I would start by pulling your steering wheel and making sure that the two slip ring contacts are not worn out and are clean and lubricated. Next would be to check the vacuum switch mounted on the...
Provided the wiring is in place, you need a new horn pad that has the buttons, maybe a clock spring depending on your year of van (early ones had 2wiper contacts under the steering wheel, later used a clock spring). Then you need the electronic amplifier module that mounts under the dash, a...
Yes but the power might all go out when the running lights turn on. If I remember correctly, the module has some kind of reduced power output to run the lights at <100%. So the module might not be useful but knowing what was there and why will help you make an educated decision on how to use the...
But remember, the dash light that turns on when vacuum is low is the Brake light and maybe the abs light as well?
On the DRL connector, the wiring diagrams show what signals go where and when they are energized so take a look at the diagrams before you wire them up. I believe you can buy that...
Maybe some kind of turbo shutdown timer? They used to be pretty popular to let the engine run for 3-5 min after you turn the key off to let the turbo cool down
Great deal on the truck. What’s the story with it?
Somehow this didn’t post earlier after I typed it. Kind of moot now but good info to know anyway if you don’t already.
I believe by '94 all the trucks were R134 so if this one is you may want to consider getting the condenser if it's in good...
First one is for the DRL module only OE in Canada.
Second one looks like it could be for the lamp on the hood? Or maybe e4od diagnostic port? I can’t really seem it’s shape or how many wires it has. Does your truck have the factory tow package? If not It may have some extra capped plugs in...
Excellent idea but I’d use the motorcraft version.
F2TZ-6701-A Has the wear sleeve
Or
E5TZ-6701-D Should also have the sleeve but is the older number for the 6.9 and 7.3
https://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlake.com/oem-parts/ford-rear-main-seal-f2tz6701a
Or Ebay for even cheaper.
Make sure you have the correct puller for the P/S pump pulley or you'll be buying that from him too as you have to take the pulley off to get pump off the bracket. Get the a/c low pressure/high pressure combo hose that goes to the compressor' it will have the high pressure cut out switch in it...
I’m not sure if it was careless but I can say that the LUK guy told us they are stuck with the bearing they supply because the Mfg (INA) is a sister company and already a preferred supplier and in their supply chain.
We’re leaning towards using the domed National bearing.
Not sure how deep you want to get into it but the Typ4 torque cam from Russ was designed for the N/A engine. It’s pretty well reviewed by the guys here that have one. I’d say it’s likely more work than a turbo kit but less money. I’d say an exhaust, fuel system tune up via CDD, and a cam is...
In the middle of this pic you can see a clip on the firewall painted black. As I recall, the clutch line clips here and one or two other places along the firewall with similar clips. As it leaves the M/C it should route over to the firewall and travel down mostly against it meeting the clips as...
People have varying opinions of pepsicola (pensacola) diesel but don't forget about Classic Diesel Designs and Russ Repair, both are members and frequent contributors to this site.
https://classicdieseldesigns.com/collections/all
https://russrepair.com/
I haven't ironed out all the steps of what needs to change but also getting that front wiring harness that runs from the pass side fender to the alt, then on to the tach sensor and a/c clutch (sometimes high pressure cutout as well) will help make things easier. Basically the charging system...
Here’s the wear the op is talking about this is more than just the rustproofing worn off, you can feel the depression in the worn area:
Here the difference in throwout bearings, the one on the right (from LUK kit) has a pretty sharp edge that could definitely produce this kind of wear and...
This guy too:
https://www.obsinteriors.com/
Or no cutting the dash:
https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/alpine-halo9-radio-apple-carplay-android-auto-ilx-f309
One of the guys here has a similar single din large screen that was much more affordable. I think it is @ifrythings
I posted this in the other request thread but I’ll put it here as well.
Consider the 4r100 as well b/c the internals are all upgrades of the e4od. Just have to back date the converter, solenoid pack, the pump and the lever sensor on the side.
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