Tractor Supply 15w-40, Chevron 15w-40, Mobil, Shell T2 or Rotella...it’s all good oil.
Additive packages have changed a lot over the last 35 years since the first Ford IDI Diesel pick-up hit the roads.
It all does the job fine unless there is irrefutable proof out there that I haven’t seen yet...
I’ve heard you may be able to open your oil fill cap and put a shop vac on it to create a vacuum to prevent oil from pouring out of the drain pan...seems like it would be best to recover the oil in a fresh containers stated earlier though.
I still wonder if that shop vac trick works or not...
Texas
Houston and Katy area
Snap-On MT257 Pulse Adapter
Innova 5568 Tach/Time
PM me, no charge if you come to me.
I also encourage you to do the work to learn first hand how to do it.
Buffed out the ol girl trying to get rid of superficial oxidation, nothing major but still a lot of elbow grease was needed...I don’t trust myself with a power tool for that job.
Got some OE door panels finally installed .... scored them from eBay, been looking for a long while waiting for the...
Yeah I fogged that campground out, sounded raspy too. But, you got me on the right track by identifying the troubled injectors. And everything got better from there because you reinforced that there is a right way and a wrong way to run our trucks, crazy part is how they can actually run so...
Ill stick with Ford on the optimal timing spec, mine is bone stock and I want it to live a long time. Interesting thing I’ve noticed in all the hot rod shops and engine builders I see weekly is that they tend to rely heavily on their shop equipment...including timing equipment.
I was getting...
I’ve never had to loosen more than just the top ones which you can get to easily, have box end wrench that slides over the lines for that job.
FWIW, saw some guys on YouTube use a turnbuckle for the throttle and fine adjustments on the pump. Next time I’m going to try it out, sometimes it...
Got a Snap-On MT257 pulse adapter from eBay for $160 and Innova 5568 tach and time light from NAPA. Truck has a new Oregon Fuel Injection pump with less than 10k miles on it and just recently purchased pop tested B.B. code Delphi’s (Thanks @Thewespaul).
Had did my best guesswork for timing...
I used light coating of lithium grease, and made sure my dang cable housing was flushed out good before I ran the cable back in.
On the speedo cluster I had just used some rubbing alcohol and graphite
Clean em up and use dish soap and water to rid it of any metal particles. Then to break them in try driving up to about 35 then slowly breaking about 7-8 times. Then let them cool before using them.
Any harder stops after a fresh drum/rotor and brake job can cause a spot which can be grabby...
You’ve may have seen it mentioned on here before as I’m sure you’ve done a lot of research already. If the return lines are not straight then there is a chance it can slightly torque the caps around. Which could end up disturbing the return line cap seals over time.
Hasn’t happened to me...
Just following up,
the mechanic who worked on my truck has been working on them since they were new, that’s a relief and he seemed very meticulous.
He did a superb job!
I did the new hydraulics, pedal bushing. The mechanic did the clutch fork and pivot ball and that 12” LUK clutch kit...
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