Sorry for the rookie question but I'm not too experienced with this........ What do you mean by that? Are you saying I could just get a gauge that says "universal" and adjust something?????
I probably would retain the orginal wires, since they're newer (compared to the ready of the truck) and work fine. So I just find the valve, cut on the fuel tank side, and run those two separate wires to the gauges?
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Hey gents I searched but havent found anything... So I'm thinking when I finally save up enough money to make my custom gauge cluster that it would be kinda nifty for each tank to have its own fuel level gauge... Does anyone know how I would go about wiring this in while retaining the stock...
The only time I've used on is on a 1939 farmall cub me and my dad restored... But that had a pedal you had to pump to prelude the engine lol
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Interesting concept. Wonder how much of a difference something like this would make to engine life as opposed to just letting it idle for 10-15 seconds before rolling out.
coolant temp sensors work like a meat thermometer. If you just hold it out in the warm air its not gonna read accurate. But if you actually touch it to something hot, it reads accurate.
They have the fancy funnels at wally world for cheap. I found one in the back seat of my truck when i bought it so mine was free lol. Actually works pretty good!
Fill the rad, and before you out the cap on start squeezing the upper and lower hoses. That'll help burp the system. And then while the motor is still warm fire it up and get to to operating temp. You'll probably see bubbles coming out of coolant and then the level will drop with each bubble...
I was referring to the piping for it. But IMO the tall narrow rads are better than the short wide. Stock was not aluminum. But aluminum can be had relatively inexpensive compared to modern rads.
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I'm not sure what is causing it, but if you're getting clearer with each flush I wouldn't worry about it. But when you do fire it up in between flushed, I wouldn't just run it until it warms up and then flush again. I would run it, and go for a good drive to make sure everything is circulated...
Definitely go with aluminum over steel. Its way more thermally conductive and will help to shed a lot of heat out of the coolant.
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