I run mmo at every oil change with all my vehicles. One of those things where I saw that it worked with my Jeep, so I continue to use it in all my vehicles, dirt bikes & small engines.
I would drain a couple quarts out and add 2 qts of marvel mystery oil, and run it until your due for the next oil change. Bet that’ll get rid of your problem. I’ve had good luck with the stuff.
This goes both ways. Yes the bolts are bigger, but ARP’s solves that problem on a 6.9. Extra displacement really isn’t even noticed between the two. And then add the thinner walls on a 7.3 idi making it more prone to cavitation....I’m more of a fan of the 6.9 idi.
I would start by pulling out the engine and remove oil pan & cylinder heads. While your at it, take a bearing cap off and inspect it for wear. Proceed from there depending on what you find. Post some pics if you have questions about anything “internal engine” related.
It really depends on how...
Yes, a turbo helps burn fuel much more efficiently in general.
Don’t mess with the compression with these engines. It’s high enough at almost 22:1 CR in stock form.
Regardless of how complicated some may want to make this thread, a turboed diesel engine will be more efficient than N/A, even going on down the highway with very low boost. That low boost turbo setup running down the interstate is throwing more air down the throat than any N/A would be able to...
Don’t mess with the compression. Does a turbo increase fuel economy? Maybe but probably not much, because instead of going 30mph up a steep hill naturally aspirated, you’ll be going around 50-60mph instead with a turbo lol. And you’ll probably be running engine wide open in both cases if your...
I would snatch that up in a heartbeat. Looks like that will be a good truck, plus it looks like it’s a ZF-5! Don’t worry about the miles, they can go a long ways before needing any major attention as long as you take care of it.
Keep us posted ;Sweet
You could also run a heavy dose of power service diesel kleen (gray bottle) with your next fill up. Dump a quart in fuel and that will probably clean it up as well.
Looks like a fun trip!
^^^Check air filter. If that checks out, might want to drop in a new fuel filter filled with seafoam. That’ll clean up the injectors & pump very well if you run it for a minute & let it set overnight.
Sounds like your IP might be acting up a little.
Steam cleaning is best. That’ll take all kinds of crap off even without degreaser applied.
When I didn’t have access to steam cleaner, I used to drive my pickup a short distance to the carwash. Spray 2 bottles of degreaser, let sit for a few minutes and then blast it off. Didn’t really bother...
My oil turns pitch black in about 2 miles of driving it with new oil. Sure it’ll probably have tighter engine tolerances, but it’s still a diesel. Oil nowadays is much better than it was 30 years ago.
I run my 6.7 psd whenever the oil change light comes on, which is always around 8k miles. There is no need to change oil in short intervals anymore. I would run engine oil to at least 5k miles before changing it with a FL1995 Filter in these old idi engines.
Again, this is just my opinion on...
I’ve done it in the past. Probably won’t do it anymore. They are good at getting a truck owner all worked up because the oil shows 2ppm higher in bearing metal content and think their engine is going to blow up.
It is, however, a good test to see how your headgaskets are holding up if your...
3850 rpm is the redline. No need to be scared to use your engine what it was designed for. My $6k engine build saw redline rpms about 30 minutes after starting it for the first time. They are designed to be run in hard. Baby them, and they will be a oil drinking turd with lots of blowby because...
If your engine is governed at 3300 rpms, I’m sorry haha. Mine wound all the way up to 3850 rpm and I wasn’t afraid to run it that high either. That was a stock calibrated pump that I bought from Conestoga too.
These engines can take it.
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