I’ve also heard both a valvetrain tick & an injector knock with these engines.
It sure sounds like you have a valvetrain tick listening to your vid.
Just my .02
Sounded exactly like my engine when I had a brand new hydraulic lifter that collapsed.
I would pull valve covers and see if you can depress any of the rockers with your hand. If you find one that depresses easily, bingo.
I think the lift pump change may have just been a coincidence, and not...
Running a new torque converter dry doesn’t do it any favors either. You were supposed to dump a quart of atf in there prior to mounting tc onto transmission.
Like already mentioned, removing a trans line might be the best way to drain some fluid from transmission.
With those test results, I would be pulling that engine out for further diagnosis. Sounds like it may need a full rebuild, but I would check out those cylinder heads first.
Ask him where the injectors came from.
He likely put cheapo reman injectors in it, so it’ll probably need new squirters and injection pump from Conestoga diesel or typ4 aka Russ.
White smoke does sound like a timing issue, or crap injectors that are dribbling bad.
Ultra gray rtv on the IP tower. Sealed many without a leak.
I was able to take a paint pen and mark both gears. Using a flashlight, you can mesh the two gears together and see your paint marks to verify it’s correct. Works like a charm for me.
This is a good point. No matter how good you think you are at timing an engine by ear, you don’t know squat until you actually hook up a meter.
The whole “timing by ear” thing really ain’t worth a damn.
I would bring the crankshaft into a machine shop and have them take a look see. They might be able to turn it and remove those problematic areas on the crank.
I don’t believe synthetic oil in an engine will net you better fuel mileage. A thinner weight oil might.
People mainly run synthetic oils when they want to achieve longer change intervals, as synthetic oils tend to hold up a bit longer before breaking down.
I would run it if you want, but that...
You are going to want 4:10’s with those 33 tires.
Just regeared my Jeep that I bought with 33’s and a 3:55 ratio. It kind of sucked to say the least. Seemed like the engine was always lugging around town. Just had it regeared to 4:10’s and it was a night n day difference. Well worth the $
That is one clogged up port. Looks like the driver never put there foot in the throttle either. These engines will clog up like that if they aren’t run hard every once in a while. And bad valve stem seals make it worse.
You should have seen my engine when I first tore into it. The PO drove it...
Like mentioned, porting these heads won’t do much good imo. They flow quite well in stock form, and doing so won’t net you a power gain. Only thing that does a damn bit of good in regards to hp is a turbo on these old engines.
I’ve had problems with enginetech quality in the past, specifically pushrods.
I would go with sealed power, as their specs are always correct and build quality is superior.
You can buy dynomat brand insulation for $50 a roll, or go to Home Depot and buy duct insulation for $18 a roll. And it’s damn near the same stuff. Used it on my yj when I put new carpet in er. Just FYI ;Sweet
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.