Go to dieselorings, look around the site for the maintenance, check the fuel control, pressure regulator, tank return and things like that. not to expensive for a rebuild kit.
http://www.dieselorings.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?p=8&q=wicked+wheel+2+for+7.3+f350
There is a 20 Amp fuse in the underhood fuse panel. That could be blown. Don't just look at it, check with VOM or just replace it.
In the diagrams, scroll down to the diesel.
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/DownloadPdf?id=9231
I don't recall how many pipe plugs are in the side of the block, but the far front plug of the block on both sides would be the cross over, since your not getting much oil or any to the lifters and push rods, I would say that passage is blocked or partially blocked. Take the plug out on both...
Look at the oil routing in the pic. There is no way for those pieces to get into the oil pan except thru the bypass hole from the oil filter. The oil galleys are only 1/2" in diameter, even the drain back holes in the heads are to small for the pieces to pass thru if they got in the oil fill...
Don't ya just Love it when asked a question about a phantom truck.
Got a Ford DVD for every Ford vehicle from 2000 to 2003 and a complete wiring manual for a 99.5.
That could be the light Toreador light or medium Red. Just got a Dupli-Color rattle can of Ford Toreador red don't match mine at all, had to get a Dupli-Color Toreador Red for GM, lot darker.
The return line fitting on the filter cap and top of IP could be either 3/16" or 1/4", use the size whatever size those are. If you go to 1/4", you'll have to change those two fittings or they will leak or air intrusion, can't clamp tight enough.
Anyone have a picture of the different pulleys for NA and turbo engines. A thread/post was discussed about them sometime ago, searched but can't find it.
After torquing to that 20 Ft-lbs, you have bent the pan rail and torque spreaders. You need to remove the pan and straighten the rail and spreaders. Torque bolts to 7-8 ft-lbs or just tighten lightly, if it still leaks, then tighten a half bolt turn each one until leaking stops.
The probe should be as close to #8 Cyl in exhaust manifold. #6 then #8 Cyl's fire, that's the hottest exhaust.
Is the probe screwed in the manifold or held in by a band?
You should be seeing 1100*F to 1300*F EGT pulling that heavy of a load. Your GCVW, your overloaded. Tractor 14,200, trailer...
I think a couple of you wealthy guys should buy the two the seller has, then install and let us know in the year 2025 if it was worth it.:Thumbs Up :flipa
You have to have the fuel selector switch on the dash set to front tank, then jumper/connect the two wires together at the FSV, one from the tank gauge, to the one going to the dash fuel gauge.
YUP, voltage flow is from +Pos. to -Neg. , Current flow is from -Neg to +Pos. So it's accentual to have good grounding wires and clean and tight ground points on the Negative side.
You don't need a Diesel Mechanic yet. Brakes and trailer is the same a s Car.
For the trailer brakes, look into the harness at the rear drivers side, there could be three wires wrapped up in there, Blue, Red/Orange and Black, the other end is by the drivers side firewall wrapped up in harness...
Well sure, that's to be expected. But a good Video showing how.
On a cold start when the Cold Advance solenoid is energized, it advances the timing a bit because the engine is running at a ~1000 RPM, after the CAS de-energizes and running at 650 RPM, the throttle shaft cam takes over Advancing...
I made a top side creeper for less than $50 out of 1-1/8" angle iron. See pic. Have all the measurements. Fasten it to a cheery picker or put feet on it. Folds up by removing the bolts, hang on the wall. Have to draw up the dimensions yet.
You can see my skinny A$$ on it.
Where the top bolts...
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