If one fell into my lap today (and I wasn’t in CA) I would put a F350 Dana 60 in the front, 1356 transfercase, and a F350 cab and chassis rear (hard to find). Would make a great dump truck, service truck or dedicated trailer puller. Wouldn’t plan on putting a pickup bed on it since the frame is...
I had a fleet of them at one time. Pretty simple and rugged. Largest problem was the parking brake unit. The bearings are oil lubricated in a separate compartment that holds maybe 4 Oz of oil. If the seals leak it is gone in a day.
The diesel ones are not legal in CA unless they are registered...
I have done the similar repair to the same panel on my 96. Small machine screws and nuts with washers but most importantly epoxy. Did that in ‘03 and it is still solid.
Have photos of every detail just need to get in the habit of posting. Something I never had time for before lately. Since you asked maybe I’ll figure it out.
Check the suggestions above for air doors operation checks. I have also had the air door break inside the box. If I were to bet I would bet on the evaporator plugged with debris. I just did my 96 and it was amazing and disgusting at the same time. Even after the caked over surface was clean it...
I agree.
At this point if it was in a truck where you could get the pan off I would pull the pan, fill up cooling system again and see where it came out.
In a pickup in this case I think I would drain the cooling system and oil. Refill oil. Leave water out. Rotate engine a couple rotations with...
If it wasn’t leakin/using oil before the turbo didn’t cause it unless you got EGR too high and scored a cylinder.
CDR does nothing to control blow by. It is there for emergencies only to prevent a run away by excess vacuum pulling oil from crankcase. Crankcase ......Depression (think vacuum...
If they have parking brake actuators built into the caliper the is only one logical choice..... Cadillac Eldorado. Google disc brake conversion kits for our trucks many people sell them but they all come down to van rotors, custom caliper brackets, and caddy calipers with park brake or Chevy PU...
Olives have to appear to be one size too small to actually fit. I learned over the years that pre stretching them helps. You have to act like you are trying to break it. They are very.....resilient. Some things that have worked over the years: push olive up a tapered punch then put in on line...
Man those Air Dog guys must have good advertising LOL!
Really not applicable to the 6.9-7.3 IDI except a full on performance build. And then there are other choices. Back to your original problem... Is your truck stock or modded? Most people have either an electric fuel pump or manual. Whatever...
Your comment on cleaning the bottom of the cab is me too!
I was having an argument with myself today.....cab mounting bolts are out to replace mounts.....that leaves brake lines, steering column and wiring.......should I jack up the cab a foot or so I can finish cleaning and painting the frame...
The firewall mod is at least cutting and folding the seam just above the bellhousing to make room for the turbo Dow and up pipes. If the engine is out a portapower makes it super easy. My problem is good enough never is so I have clearance for 4” downpipe now, but spent many hours making and...
Attached to the AC plenum in the stupidest spot possible just above the valve cover is the reservoir for the HVAC controls. It has one vacuum line attached and is apx 2x3x4. It can go anywhere you wish to run a vacuum line. Or be replaced by the 80’s round ball one with a more practical mounting...
If you havent, 3 things I would do for sure at the point you are in the photo....
Split the AC plenum and clean out the 20 plus year collection of stuff you won’t believe and reseal everything. While you are at it at least move that stupid little vacuum reservoir box from above the valve...
Wow that looks like where my 96 is at now but the engine is still out.
Started out to replace front cover and ended up just doing everything I have wanted to do for past 10 yrs plus a lot of that “while we are here” crept in.
New cab mounts.
Sand frame, remove all sharp corners and edges, paint...
Did you think about my trick of pressurizing the crankcase?
I never tried it but a shop vac on blow might even work.
What ever is leaking the oil is likely getting thrown out at higher rpm but not at idle.
Another less time saving approach is to block the throttle at 2000 rpm and observe. I...
I believe Powermaster uses genuine ND components. It is based on quality.
The original Mitsubishi is a great starter. At one time new ones were available for about the price of 2 remans.
I’m in the same situation with diminishing cranking rpm but good cables and batteries.
My experience with DB is that the starter has a low price, great, performance but a short life. After about a year a bearing failed.
At the time I had a local rebuilder I trusted and took fleet work to. He...
Here is how I locate pesky upper engine leaks.
Presssurize the crankcase with about 3psi of air using a regulator. The dipstick acts a a safety valve. I can’t count the number of leaks such as this I have found. Mix up some bubble solution and go for it!
I adapt to the CDR valve and put the...
That being said kudos and a huge thanks to those that have got off their butt and acquired drawings, machined parts and taken time to post photos of properly installed plugs. Most of us have never seen them properly installed.
Looks like you have both removal and installion down to a science. Nice work.
I also agree with typ4 that the best plan is to NOT remove them in the first place.
It has been standard machine shop practice on American V8’s to pull the soft plugs while hot tanking the block. That is fine with...
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