So another thought is the transfer case. I have had a BW1356 do something like this. The oil pump failed, spun around and wiped out the plastic shift fork liners. Then it would jump out of gear. I drove about 30 miles with my foot on the transfer case shifter keeping it engaged. However this...
You will be lucky if there is is no erosion of the block or head surface. Most high mileage 6.9’s I have done needed both done. I like to use 120 grit emery cloth soaked in oil to clean block deck... the oil keeps the sanding grit contained so you can wipe it up without it getting down in the...
My 91 had Duracool R12 replacement in it when I bought it in 2001. I finally had to replace my the compressor and some of the hoses a couple of years ago...25 years on a compressor ain’t bad....
Doesn’t need SCA’s, in fact adding them is a bad idea. Does not mix well with green coolant.
Coolant got extremely complicated and specific after the introduction of extended life coolants.
OAT = Organic Acid Technology
Be very careful with these new modern technologies in our old dinosaurs. My experience with 100’s of trucks is that it eats gaskets and seals.
Sounds like you are going to need to pin out and one out everything to figure this one out. I also learned over the years doing fleet truck work after the initial thorough look around that the sooner you bit the bullet and pulled the harness the sooner it got solved.
Yes the 88-94 F-Superduty used a 4x4 transmission with a parking brake unit that mounts up to the same interface as a transfer case. My experience with a fleet of the F-SD’s was the parking brake was a weak link, very vulnerable and very expensive to fix.
Dave, I believe what comp is saying is that the flywheel ring gear is straight cut spur gears BUT there is a “lead in” bevel on one edge to help the starter drive engage. I’m familiar with this because I have built up flywheel teeth with weld and filed to shape when I had no choice.
The torque converter drain is a great thing......probably more than half the fluid won’t get changed if you don’t drain the tc. Not too hard really. The main band does have an adjustment..... not very hard just need an inch pound torque wrench. The time delay is probably old hard seals that take...
A few random thoughts:
A compression check will help you know what to look for even if you still tear it down.
Reportedly Harbor Freight has an inexpensive kit that will work on our engines. Might save you more than it’s cost.
The chuffing out the exhaust is usually caused by an exhaust valve...
BUT he specializes in powerstrokes and will update the programs. With fast turn around, and if it isn’t the PCM you are out $45 and get some real help figuring it out.
On the subject of the alternator belt, some folks just run a belt around water pump and alternator. Do we need 3 belts to power the fan? Anyone know the part # for the belt to try this? It seems like getting rid of the Alt. flapping might be worth the increased load on the ps and ac belts since...
That spec change on the Alt belt was what the Gates rep told me years ago. That one belt they changed the specs to make it live better. Back when I had a fleet of these it did make a difference.
The only ones I have ever had issues with are the white nylon ones around the hvac box. The white nylon is so UV vulnerable that is has turned to dust where the sunlight comes in the gap between the fender and hood. The tubing is 1/8 OD so the vacuum hose should be 3/32. Vacuum hose comes 1/32...
Funny this came up I was just eyeballing the belt on the 91.
Totally agree on the Gates belt. Back when I had a fleet of these the Gates rep told me they built that part number with extra reinforcement due to the known problems with belt whip.
I used a moisture cured urethane paint called Mastercoat (think POR 15 but better because of leafing aluminum powder) 3 coats with a small brush. Hardest part was not overdoing the little pegs since MC is thick (but self leveling). Let it cure a few days. Then Safelight came out and reinstalled...
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