Agree with the comments on the 6bt.
On the Detroit 4-53t or 6v53t. The only reason to do a Detroit really is that you just love them. I do and I would, but not so much for practical reasons.
4bt swaps dot com has a Detroit section. There are some very serious Detroit nuts out there. Leid...
This is the question on a lot of parts now, alternators and starters come to mind. I would rather have OEM parts remained by someone with care than new parts of which the quality is questionable.
I think you are asking if there are fuel pressure gauges that will work for our application. Yes therefore are many 15 psi electric fuel pressure gauges. From cheap to$$$. The cheap ones have a pretty high failure rate on the sender. I think I’m going with a mechanical gauge mounted on the cowl...
Likely the base problem is the missing copper washer and loose injector. The copper washer seals combustion gasses and provides a heat conductivity path. When the injector tip overheats bad things happen such as a sticking pintle which allows hot combustion gasses to come out the return flow...
You are kind of noticing the reason so many of us have a manual transmission lol. It is somewhat tunable though. I have my C6 truck set up high and tight. No electronics involved though....
What is your actual fuel pressure with that Facet pump?
The main reason I did dual Facet pumps is because I already had one on the truck which was basically worthless because of pressure drop under load. I had another one behind the seat. So for the cost of fittings and the time to build a...
The reason to have them on when AC is on is to keep air moving over the condenser while sitting still. If not, high head pressure results with failed compressor, blown hoses or vented Freon at the pressure relief. Medium duty and big rig trucks use a pressure switch to turn on fan when head...
The interesting thing was my first test pointed at the starter since it showed over 600 amps draw and battery volts dropping to around 9.5. Once I swapped the batteries from the 96 in, the amp draw dropped to 300 and cranking volts came up to over 10.5.
Watts Law is still true I guess. It is...
So checking things out a little better I found out the starter from 2001 looks just like a Powermaster. AND one of my nearly new batteries is open....zero volts output.
So my 18 year old starter that looks identical to a Powermaster ( no idea where it came from ) has been getting by starting the...
So maybe I already have a Powermaster?
So it has been a very mild winter here in central Ca so far. Has only got below 32 a couple of times.
Early fall I noticed the old 7.3 not starting quite like normal. A little slow cranking. Took a quick look but no time so kept using it. Then when it got...
Use the penatrating grease or chain lube on the door latch mechanisms, inner door handle mechanism (except the parts that slides as it works use the grease there), the pinion gear on the window regulator. If the cable is stiff but still good a variety of gas and vacuum hose pieces can be used to...
Use the Teflon/silicon grease inside the window motor gearbox, all the sliding parts and tracks in the window regulator and on the outer handle button and the end of the button sliding contact. Any place you can smear it directly on the moving surfaces.
So to get lasting “better than new” door and window operation begin by removing the window regulator, door latch, inner door handle and outer door handle/push button from the door. Soak the latch and inner door handle mechanism in solvent, the wire brush and blow until clean. Clean all the...
Spray lube goes little for the window regulator and sluggish window operation because of dried up grease in all the sliding parts.
Oh and to the OP, I do agree you need the kit with the poly “torque fuses” however if you don’t clean and lube the regulator it will return.
The door latch and the inside release handle mechanism both have a lot of moving levers that pivot on rivited in fulcrum pins that get dry. Spraying penetrant such as WD40 will temporarily help since it dissolves the old gunk and gives a little lube for a short time. But the problem soon returns.
My first comment on this process is that white lithium grease, the old standby, was banned from my shops in both spray penatrating and grease forms. It always dries up turns to gum, then later to white chalk (the clay used as a binder). Nearly impossible to get off without scraping and wire...
At one time I had a fleet of 86-94 FSeries. All IDI’s.Some of them such as the landfill crew truck and the shop pickup plus one 94 FSD toilet truck were still in use in 2014. Over the years most of the problems with hard to open, cracked doors, broken inner handles, sluggish windows and stripped...
THIS is the key reason for me. I have run into battery / starter issues before trying to recover from a minor fuel supply problem. The last time I was a ways from help when it stalled while off road. Grabbed air somehow and since it was essentially idling at the time (up a steep rough incline)...
I’m 100% convinced electric is the way to go. It is just finding the combination of reliability, flow and pressure. And delivering fuel that isn’t aireated.
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