Thanks for clearing that up Wes. I looked at some pistons this morning before I found your posts. I guess I’m just used to diesels having keystone rings. The first diesel I ever rebuilt, a Waukesha 190 DLC had them. But the 6.9 piston I have on my bench doesn’t. Guess I shouldn’t post from the...
Or swap the fuel pump gear housing. It seems to me my 86 had the sensor location in the gear housing with a plug instead of a sensor. And the wire was there both on the engine and dash end. But as I said that was at least 15 years ago so my memory could be off.
These should not be a big deal. Google Association of Diesel Specialists ADS to find an injection shop in your area or contact Mel Agne At Conestoga Diesel one of the preferred vendors here.
You are overthinking this. Unplug the sensor and run it. If it runs ok unplugged. Inspect / clean the plug. Plug it back in. If it runs bad again replace the sensor. DO Not cheap out and get aftermarket sensor.
I have no hard evidence at the moment but I think you may have a point. I haven’t had time to check my records but my 91 is in great shape with no starting or maintenance issues. It lost 2 ZD-9’s what I would call prematurely, gets started 2x per week and gets 5,000 miles a year on average. No...
It has a very low amp draw. It is not parallel power, the second wire goes to the switch for the timing advance and high idle solenoid. So when it cold all 3 items draw power but it couldn’t be more than 10 amps.
Who did your heads? I once had an engine doing this. The machinist had installed intake seats ( none originally) and cut the recess into the water jacket. So it burned coolant until I pulled the heads and figured it out.
4bt Swaps started off as a 4bt site but grew to have Detroit, Perkins, Japanese Diesels and more. It is a lot of creative people throwing ideas around and getting things done. Take a look!
But if I were buying today I would get Classic Diesel Design or R&D because of the upgraded turbo availability, simplified design and built to be intercooled.
Serviceability wise I don’t find the system in the way much. You can get all 8 glow plugs out and run a compression test without removing anything difficult.
The only thing I can complain about is the fuel mileage. I don’t believe that can be blamed on the Banks turbo system. It was 17 or so but over the past few years it has had some fuel system problems I haven’t completely solved. It has gotten as low as 11 lately. Need to get that resolved....
Performance wise it spools at 1350 rpm, that is the boost gauge comes off the peg at 1350. 8 lbs by 1800. Have the wastegate set there because not needing to work on a 200,000 mile engine that is untouched for 30 years (except the pump, injectors and usual accessories) is more...
I have a Banks Sidewinder on my 91, been on there since 2001. Good quality kit but time has moved on since it was designed. Got 100,000 miles on it. The only failure so far is a cracked flange on the crossover pipe. Here’s a few observations: The air filter is a k&N style and tiny for a 444cu in...
Yep, that’s what I did pretty much. One truck waiting for the engine to go in, the other waiting for me to find the energy to pull the flatbed off. It pisses me off every time I fuel it but just slightly less than enough to go home and rip the bed off......
As to returning the fuel from the regulator here: yes it will work fine but be just slightly less than ideal. Reason being in fluid dynamics we want to return flow back to tank below the level of fluid in the tank to prevent creating air bubbles in the fluid.
Can you get the sending unit out...
One cool thing your rig has that the most of the rest of us need is that 5/8 tank vent. I have 2 rigs I’m working on installing them on. Your pic gives me some reference as to how far down to tap in the 5/8 tube.
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