Yeah I'm hoping to hear from people with more experience.
From what I've gathered googling around....
On the one hand, removing it eliminates a possible source of failure that can lead to stalled engine.
On the other, apparently it also drops internal pressure by 4-6 PSI, which can actually...
Ok, I have some pics.
1. Location. Top of the IP. Underneath the barbed hose fitting, which threads into the check valve.
2. The check valve, removed. Notice the front nozzle appears empty (no glass ball).
3. I can see light through it. No spring, no ball.
From reading a few threads...
In case it wasn't clear, this is the outlet threaded into the top of governor housing. It can easily be removed with the pump fully mounted just by removing the outlet hose. So anyone can inspect it, not only pump rebuilders. :-) I just figured they would work with it regularly.
I didn't think to shake it. Doesn't it strike you as odd though that I could see right through the valve? I would think the ball should be in the center...
Calling for help from those of you that have rebuilt one of these IPs!
I need info about the IP outlet "Fuel Return Regulator Housing Pressure Fitting".
Ok, so some call it a "check valve" but apparently it is supposed to regulate IP fuel pressure somehow. Anyway, I'm referring to the IP...
Update: I performed most of the mod as described a couple posts back.
I wasn't yet able to install the tee that joins the injector returns to the main return line from IP. That's because I need a 5/16" by 1/4" tee and nobody local carries them. I thought for sure Ace Hardware would have it...
If you haven't already, I'd suggest installing an electric fuel pump first thing and installing a block-off plate where the old mechanical pump was. This will bring benefits (shorter crank times) even after you've found/fixed the air intrusion issue.
Second, with a flashlight perform a visual...
Progress: I finally had a little time yesterday/today to mess around with the 7.3 again.
I installed clear tubing between the top of IP and the main return line pipe. I already have another clear tube between #1 injector and the fuel pump housing.
After running the engine for a while and...
no. this thread is about buying new *nozzles*.
In other words, just the tips of the injectors that actually wear. With a source of new nozzles and a pop tester, one could rebuild old injectors easily.
a leak in any line would cause vacuum loss. In my case it was the hose between the vacuum manifold and the brake booster.
So the symptom I was seeing was that with the truck off I could pump the brake up and it would stay firm-ish. Not super stiff, but would def not go to floor.
As soon as I...
vacuum line leak? you can check it with a vacuum guage.
I had a similar system where brakes would pump up, then go to floor. I bled the crap out of it. finally, I checked vacuum, saw it would drop rapidly, replaced hose, and voila! brakes.
Where did you get the replacement injectors and are they new or reman?
I ask because I was having long crank times (10+ secs after 24 hours). After sealing up the fuel system in a bunch of ways, still long crank. I pulled the injectors, pop tested, and found they were leaking at only about...
hey thanks Big Bart! If I lived in southern CA I'd take you up on it.
That's a bit far from here though and actually I ordered a DTI tech time, which is arriving tomorrow. (Plus the truck is non-op'ed right now.)
Update:
I installed new/reman injectors from Russ. These have new nozzle tips. I pop tested them first and they all tested right around 1800 and did not leak from the tips. yeah!! I noticed that 5 of the 8 actually did leak/weep a small amount from the threads of the cap/nut that holds the...
thx for the manual link. I took a look and it talks about lapping using a (flat) wetstone and then a dry stone. I'm having great difficulty understanding how this works. Because when I think of lapping an engine valve for example, you put the lapping compound on the valve and then twist the...
yeah, I wasn't thinking to lap a new nozzle, but rather old ones that are leaky. I just don't know how to actually do it, and wondering if you or anyone here has done it and can share about the experience.
There's a nozzle casing with a single hole in it, and then there is a needle (pintle) that seats up against it. I guess it leaks/drips when either the hole or the needle have an irregularity.
I assume the hand lapping would be for the needle against the nozzle hole. But the needle only sticks...
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