Nvrmnd, I didn't notice what forum I was in, I thought it was the truck in your sig.
You have the 3G in a powerstroke w/ an internal regulator. I would suspect the GP controller first. Disconnect it and see if the drain goes away.
Have you tested the regulator or at least checked the plug there? Your regulator is external to the alt unless you have converted to the 3G alternator.
Disconnect the heavy wire going to the GP controller to see if that eliminates your current draw. If it does, then your GP controller is bad.
Factory Turbo trucks would make 8-10 psi. ATS kits made 10-15 depending on how much the fuel was turned up.
As for welding the nipple on, it may be easier to silver solder or gas weld on such thin material but if you’re good at it welding will work fine too.
What idi bronco describes is what I'm familiar with on ATS and factory turbo trucks. I know ATS used that special CDR valve cover that was originally an IH part as part of their kit but the few that I've seen have a moulded rubber hose that goes from a nipple on the intake casting to a nipple on...
Banks and ATS each always claimed their turbo systems added about 50% more hp and torque to the wheels over stock and often published Dyno graphs purporting to show that. The ford factory system was basically a detuned ATS system with virtually no increase in fuel delivery. It had to be detuned...
There may be a spacer between the flexplate and crank that has to be removed if going from auto to manual also. I'm not sure if this is true on the c6 like it is on the later e4od but maybe someone else can clarify.
I really like that GlowShift offers a specific pillar pod for the '91 and older trucks up to 4 gauges on the pillar. I don't think anyone else offers one at all and it so nice to actually have one that fits rather than trying to mash the OBS one into place on the older pillars. I don't know...
Looks very nice, be sure to get a heat shield sock for your slave cylinder, turbo trucks are known for cooking these after a few years of higher than normal egts.
For the brake controller, it would depend on how someone wired it in. If your truck came with the factory tow pkg then the chassis wiring was setup to have a controller added without affecting any circuit in the truck. If it was added without that package then it could possibly be contributing...
When mine was behaving similarly it turned out to be an internal issue with the power circuit inside the PCM. The main processor was losing power intermitantly. Mine would randomly, occasionally blip off and then come back until it finally got really bad and would stumble and restart and then...
On the SuperDuty trucks I'm pretty sure there is a pre installed circuit/blunt cut wire in your under dash harness that you can connect to one of the upfitter switches or any switch really to create high idle. There's plenty of information about that wire and how to connect it via google. You...
There’s a guy on here that did a single piece drive shaft for one of his customers in a truck similar to yours. You can read what he did and how it came out in the link. I think the customer may have had to change the angle due to some minor vibrations when unloaded vs loaded or something along...
Here's a front seal tool that a member built to use the three nuts welded to the front plate for this purpose. I believe there's an option on the front seal to get a wear sleeve if needed as well. There may be a reference to the seal info in that thread...
All the rubber seals and gaskets for the turbo system you may need can be sourced from a couple forum members here. Russrepair.com is the closest to you over in Oregon and classicdieseldesigns.com also has many of these parts as well they’re just a ways away from you down here in TX.
If you’ve...
Years ago Banks made a taller cast aluminum lid with a custom k&n filter as an upgrade. You could check to see if it’s still available. Maybe someone on eBay or Marketplace has one of those or an original. If not, I wouldn’t break out the welder for this, might burn more holes than close up. I...
That and a big sagging shelf of alternator and starter carcasses behind the front counter exactly describes the shop I’ve used several times here in my area. And years later all their rebuilds are still going.
Try www.car-part.com put in the basics of what you’re looking for an you might find a decent low to avg mile engine in Idaho or eastern Washington or Oregon.
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