Recently the later version used on the 87-97 trucks has been offered on E-bay for pretty reasonable. The connector uses flat pins but may have to be swapped or repinned but the lines should be in the correct orientation to the frame. The later fuel line connectors are different but I believe you...
It seems I didn't know it all either. I couldn't see the little holes in the middle in this and the big blue threads. The only other 6.9 gaskets I'd seen were the modified ones in the shop truck idit motor. I looked at the Jerry thread as well and somewhere about post 178 there's a good picture...
Second pic in post 1, these are 6.9 gaskets, in the little supplement bag on top there's a couple "superman" shaped objects. Those can be used on a 6.9 to block the flow of the outer ports like the later style 7.3. Or they could be modified to allow some amount of coolant to pass, or left out...
Somewhere I read that all new 7.3 gaskets were the turbo style. Looking at your pics and the coffee table book, looks like that might be correct. the scallops for the lower head bolts and the odd little hole outside the fire ring look like whats in the coffee table book.
In the shop truck build it looks like he put the inserts in and then cut them to allow the water to flow but in big blue I didn't see any pictures of how he did it. I would think that the inserts, even with the hole, might help support the gasket in this area but maybe not enough?
From Shop...
Interesting....Could be....It kind of looks like a filter dryer for an A/C system turned on it side but I doubt that's actually what it is. It doesn't look like anything that came from Ford though. If it's not hooked up, loose the dead weight.
on edit: nevermind, that set is still in the back seat of our '91
I think you might have a pair to pic and post up for public consumption; when you have a min look in the International top end set box in our '93. That is a specific turbo top end set it should have a set of turbo gaskets. My...
Did they give you good service on the warranty? They have 5yr unconditional warranty and two year free "re-stall" option.
I read through that build thread, man that's complete and fantastic info. I got tipped off early on to convert to the hardened sun_shell as I had wear on the one I took...
Looks like it's see better days. It might be easier to get a new water separator header and filter that is newer/more available. Or if you do have a W/S and filter somewhere else already then this one can just go away. Search for what some of the other 6.9 guys are replacing theirs with like in...
If you're reasonably competent with tools and measuring in the thousandths of an inch you should be able to manage the rebuild in a home garage. I did mine in my garage 6 years and 80,000 ago and it's still running great with no leaks.
ASTG has a rebuild manual and an update manual available...
Is that to the outside of the brake booster? Didn't the early 6.9s have a water separator/fuel heater there? I seem to remember folks reported that those units had a lot of issues with leaks and it was common to bypass/remove/substitute the old factory one. Maybe this is someone's version of a...
There are several companies that deal in used transmission hard parts. When I rebuild my e4od I damaged part of the pump and was able to get just that part. I also bought a good used sunshell from them that was better than the one I took out. Cheap prices too, the one I used was:
Teal...
I've got some engine harness repair work to do and the materials I've used in the past haven't lasted as long as I'd hoped.
SO....what wireloom/wrap seems to be able to handle under-hood temps like the OE stuff? Is there a brand or product spec I should look for?
Who has the corrugated loom...
I’d reach out to autozone corporate and to whoever the STP brand is and give them hell. Do it on FB or Twitter or whatever social media you use. Send them the pictures. I’d at least ask them to pay for the extra oil change. They owe you and whoever bought one of those in the shelf a replacement...
I can't see the extra gasket, I see the cone shape of these new style gaskets on the filter but looks to me like the filter header is clear and flat ready to mate to the gasket if it makes it up there. Looks like the filter bottomed out before gasket even contacted the header.
FWIW that's the Dave Ramsey "pay for your vehicle before you buy it" plan. It's only a struggle for the first one, then you're in the habit, see the value and nobody owns your stuff if something happens. Saves you from paying the interest on a new car note as well.
Here what international and ford called a top end/head set for a factory turbo motor. We found it on eBay a few years ago but there may be a few others out there. If you’ve got a ATS or factory system this is nice b/c it’s really complete. Every gasket and hose from the block up to the top of...
Roundness, Ring lands, wrist pin wear, skirt wear, cracks or overheating damage to the crown/top. There are allowable dimensions for each, probably listed somewhere on here but I don't remember them off the top of my head. If they pass they're useable
Are all the holes that bad? .020" over is usually the conservative limit on cutting these. Much more and the chance of cavitation goes up and the cylinder walls are pretty thin at that point. What is the goal of your rebuild? Total Seal rings are a pretty premium product, if your goal for this...
Sounds like you're saying the spring eye doesn't fit in the shackle and the shackle doesn't fit the hanger? Maybe your shackle is wrong altogether? The steel tube running through the spring eye bushing isn't going to compress. The links on the sides of the shackle may flex some to match up with...
Hang on; are you having trouble trying to put poly bushings in the rear spring hanger or are you trying to press OE style rubber bushings in? Or are you saying the OE spring eye bushing doesn’t fit in the shackle?
Back to what was mentioned earlier;
I haven’t seen the press in version of the rear shackle either. My OEM rear shackles were molded and I replaced them with the dorman version which was also molded. The part I linked to was the molded version along with an additional bushing for the rear...
2nd on this. Exact same thing happens with the twin I Beam especially if you’ve got to cut your wheels during the reverse maneuver. If it’s been aligned and the tires don’t wear funny then it is what it is.
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