bought to use as a spare however 3/8 pistons are cracked.
I am located in Ortonville MI.
rods: $120 shipped all 8
Crank: $50 plus shipping prefer local pickup
Heads: seals are shot, possibly guides $100 pair prefer local pickup
Block: $60 local pick up only.
valve covers: non turbo: $20...
I noticed over the past 6-8 months my mileage has been dropping, from 18/19 t0 14/15. Also noticed my EGTs cruising at 70 have lately been 700ish whereas before they were 500-600 doing the same route to/from work. Sometimes I hear a louder noise from the engine at idle. Could it be a sticking...
WOndering if anyone has a very lightly used moose or omega pump? My current IP has unknown miles, mileage is falling over the last year and it is starting to leak at the bottom shaft.
PM me a price shipped to 48462.
Thank you.
so that cheap 7.3 turbo I got turns out had the living crap beat out of it. 3 pistons cracked, half the injectors disintegrated coming out, all full of soot.
I think I may jsut go the normal route and just change the clutch which was the original issue and not stuff a new engine in there lol...
fabbed up an axle dump extension for my exhaust. Would have exhaust fumes come into the cabin at idle as the old exhaust dumped just under the frame right behind the cab. Hoping it was just that and no leaks further upstream.
i REALLY like the sound now, has a bassy burble at idle and low...
Ill just wait till i have the block apart and post back.
i mean, could also be a 94 turbo block, with N/A rotating assembly. And the rotating assembly is what we are most interested in really.
if there is a 7.3D infront of it it would be completely under the gear housing, could pop it off and check.
1/4" NPT..definitly not 1/8.
Once I find a cheap HD stand for it ill pull a piston and measure the pin size. Then I will know fersher.
The engine i recently picked up for 100 allegedly came out of a 94 turbo idi.
guy said he sold off all the turbo stuff. Valve cover gaskets have a sticker that say production in 1985, and have no grommet holes. maybe they were swapped.
The number stamped on bank 1 side of the IP gear housing...
^thats exactly wha ti was hoping to find. clamping force and torque ratings.
I know that PSD luk cerametallic one holds cummins 500/1000 setups and majority of the people seem to like it.
the current Luk I have was never very positive. I mean it was ok, but it never felt like it just grabbed...
im looking at 450$ shipped for the IDIT flywheel, and the luk cerametallic clutch.
people say its fine, as long as you dont let the clutch out like a grandma. Just be meaningful with it, it will grab and go.
Ive learned that I can easily start out in 2 low row it up to even 4th, pop the tcase...
Probably should be no: but-I have my intake manifold gasket all modded with bungs welded to the back for oil draina nd really dont want to have to go through that again...think it would be ok to pull my intake manifold gasket and put it on my new engine? Maybe slap some RTV on it? or am I just...
I shoudl check all 8 cylinders before anything, but what do you think a serious plume of blue smoke on cold start could be?
usually-its valve stem seals.
truck does STINK at idle, strong diesel exhaust smell. I know timing was at 8.5, injectors are new. only in the headlight beams of cars...
haha yeah just one small Shack tucked away in a strip mall.
well...ill be damned. i took out #1 glowplug and hooked it up to a abttery...it works! so i said hrm, hooked up both truck batteries back up...truck fired up pretty damn nice! lol, Beru FTW!
sounds like maybe 1 or 2 cyl didnt fire...
are you turbo/plan on turbo?
if so, studs are an awesome piece of mind. Yes mine were 480$ that was a big chunk of coin for "some bolts" but man, I never, NEVER worry about my engine. I just lay right into it, 20+ pounds boost and let it eat.
hrm, probably shoudl have done that. i jsut got my wee 10 amp one on it. ill seperate them when im home tonight.
Will also be immediatly be putting in my momentary push button in.
hrm...i dont knwo if i even have one still..think the one one i did have was normally closed which is opposite...
IDIOT!
last night had my LED reverse lights on to light up a work area. Come out this mornign to start truck and notice my GP stwitch was left on overnight. yup, batteries 100% dead, not even facet pump would turn on. Damn..I am assuming all 8 GP are dead....thankfully have 1 year warrantee...
how bad is 3rd gear grind? If i shift fast ill get a scuff going into 3rd everyitme. if i do a 1 steam boat count between 2-3 no grind. or if i double clutch no grind. Aint rebuilding just for that..
clutch and PP are neutral balance. no need for engine balancing. If that was the case then youd need the transmission, driveshafts etc..end up with a formula 1 car.
Don;t get em wrong-id love the SB clutch, btu that is $$$, goal of this is to do it on the dirt cheap, while still being...
Machining at work is free though.
As far as i understand, the flywheel is prt of the rngines rotating assembly balance.
While the clutch should be neutral balnce and could be oriented any way on the flywheel?
This is its own topic outside of my build thread.
Lookign at options for the 94T engine I will be dropping in. I need the Vin K flywheel I know this. Will be going with Luk SMF.
Now i read here and there that one can jsut drill and tap the IDI flywheel to accept a 13" PSD clutch? Cheaper and...
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