Just my .02 here but I found trying to thread the bolts for the mechanical pump while keeping the gasket in place was a PITA and switching to e-pump was worth it just to never have to mess with those bolts again. Leaning over the engine with both arms buried while blindly trying to thread bolts...
Just wondering if anyone has used the large round filter Afe offers for N/A engines. Is it just an overpriced option or is it better than the cheapo paper filters?
3G is pretty easy as I recall. Well worth it to simplify the wiring and increase capacity. I think I used 2 gauge for the charging wires and a MegaFuse & holder with rubber cap. Zero problems and seems to put out enough voltage to keep my AGM batteries happy 4+ years now.
I had trubble with the magnetic probe at first but found a solution. I purchased my DTI 3300s as mil-surplus off ebay and it appeared to be new and unused. I cleaned the bejeebus out of everything but still couldn't get a proper reading. Finally I removed the little metal spring piece that's...
I've only owned the truck since 300k and I put in a new clutch and SMF about 60k ago. I think the original owner didn't know how to drive a stick very well as I found 5 or 6 receipts for clutch jobs. My dad bought a 1991 Cab and Chassis F350 and the factory clutch went 290k, throwout bearing...
Well it's about time for a fluid change and my ZF is at 380k without a rebuild and I was just wondering if there were any opinions on a slightly different fluid spec considering the mileage/wear. I've been running the Royal Purple ATF and "If it ain't broke don't fix it" but I thought I'd ask...
Now that's what I would call "Having plenty of room to work". Mostly I'm just concerned with the potential for damage when driving off-road, but maybe a small filter and header tucked high up. No lift on my truck so I would prefer not to have anything protruding below the frame.
Finally changing my fuel pump but want to add sufficient filtration before the frame rail mounted pump. Really don't want to go with a header & filter setup and prefer the inline. So I'm just wondering what people have found that flows enough fuel and doesn't clog quickly. The pre-filter on...
Nobody has asked yet so I will--are your glowplugs working properly? And do you get any white smoke/vapor while cranking? I could be wrong here but if you're hearing an audible hiss from the Schrader valve then wouldn't that mean you still have air in the system that needs to be purged? If...
If you decide to remove the mechanical pump and block it off the Mr Gasket brand plate will need a pinch of grinding but I'm pretty sure everyone who's used a different brand, Spectre I think, has had a good fit without modification. The Spectre plate worked fine for me anyways.
I have to also recommend the hard line delete. I used the kit from Classic Diesel Designs, it was well worth the money, and only 30 minutes to install.
Since I'm assuming the OP still has the original style alternator--not 3g--I would say the charging voltage does seem low. Before I swapped out to a 3g alt I was still getting 14-14.4 volts with engine running even with old batteries. Maybe just the voltage regulator? I never had to trouble...
Has anybody compared readings on a HF kit versus a known quality manufacturer? I would have a hard time believing any HF tool that was supposedly "precise", but I too would like to check compression without spending a fortune. The only other manufacturing I've seen that was as poor and shoddy...
Installed 1 new injector and replaced injector line with new aftermarket. Old injector threads were boogered pretty good and the threads on the hard line didn't look great either. This is the second aftermarket injector line I've used and although they do fit end-to-end but the bends are not...
Just checked a couple other injectors and the threads on #3 injector look like the others that function normally, so I'm leaning towards ordering a new #3 injector line and hoping it seals. Anyone know the thread pitch on an injector so I can check the threads with a nut, or maybe borrow a die...
Was just putting on new return lines and have a real problem now with #3. Unscrewing the #3 injector line was VERY tight compared to others but it came off. When going to reinstall #3 line I noticed that it did not want to sit straight on the threads yet that was how they wanted to start while...
As far as old and cracked overflow bottles go, mine was cracked badly down the middle seam on the bottom and I just slathered on a very, very thick layer of clear RTV, not sure which kind, and it has worked fine for over a year.
I've been running a 7lb cap for about the last 3-4 months and have had zero issues with temps. I have an Auber Instruments digital gauge using their temp probe and notice my temps are maybe a few degrees higher but negligible if at all. I don't tow heavy uphill in 100 degree plus weather so...
This is a pretty old thread so I doubt the OP will answer, but I had a couple ticking issues myself. One, after some bad driveshaft vibration due to a failed u-joint my clutch inspection cover plate was making slight contact with the flywheel and made a ticking sound. And two, one time my...
POSSIBLE SUCCESS!!! As I dreaded ordering up a new column or undertaking the rebuild process myself, I figured I might as well dig into the column a bit further and at least see if I can find a bad bearing or something else that went bad. The upper bearing seemed fine after removing the thrust...
Pulled the high pressure hose and it's clear--only 4 years old. Double checked the return line and fluid shoots out pretty fast. Steering column u-joints move freely, rag joint moves freely. Front axle steers smoothly with wheels off the ground when disconnected from steering box. I am out of...
The return line seemed to flow pretty good when I was flushing the old fluid out but I probably should check that high pressure hose. If there were a clog would that cause fluid to heat up in the pump? The old fluid didn't look too bad for ~40k miles.
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