Looks like you've got a deep pan there, where do you normally expect your level to sit? just below the pan top level?
Edit- went back and read rather than just asking and you clearly State your answer haha
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Let's see if I can hit this in order
- a Dana 50 or 60 that has been well maintained (i.e. bushings incl.) would be just fine with a decent set of shocks for the task at hand.
- 80-96 f250 will have a ttb 50, 85-96 f350 will have a 60
- you can weld/spool/lock the rear end quite easily...
In regards to coil springs look at this link
https://www.fullsizebronco.com/forum/15-general-discussion-bronco-wheeling-related/198373-3-4-ton-hd-bronco-dana-50-full-swap.html#/topics/198373?page=1
On the 60, kinnda depends on your goals. Cost effectiveness? Not really if you already have a...
Yes, but it would also be negligible, because your tires would rub the leaf springs and especially prevent any additional angle. That's your limit factor in the factory setup really.
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The ones you want came off the solid axle trucks only, 85'+ trucks. I believe actually the e99 super duty pitman arm works too, but I'm gray on that one.
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Yea different rims would be fine, they are just more expensive.
Fred goersk makes billet steel spacers. Pricey,but cheaper than new rims. I think the standard size is 2"
Yup f350 pitman arm just slides right on
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Speaking with quite a bit of coilover experience having rebuilt/installed several setups over the years working at a 4x4 shop, I can say they can be set up to handle weight well more than an obs could dream of, actually owned a setup at one point I was gonna run, but didn't like the extra lift...
Wes- from the banks picture and info it looks like Banks is selling the entire dipstick tube, did you say you have it and like it? Are you running an aftermarket downpipe such as the banks piece?
When I did my kit I put the banks downpipe on and ended up just cutting the dipstick and using a...
I did like the factory filter on my 6.0 it really had the medium duty-esk feel about it. That's why I never went a different direction with that one, but any filter is better than the screen that was on my 7.3ps when I bought it, even a Spectre. I may have to look for a different solution now...
Wow, I'd never heard this before, must've missed that thread. I've always run a factory air box on my turbo truck because of my snorkel set up and it has a K&N. I've seen tests done on those and they do allow some dirt to pass through,but not enough that I was concerned. I'm of the mindset that...
If you go to O'Reilly, or any other major chain that carries a company called Spectre, any of the cone filters work, because they come with a reducer in the box
An entire can of any "starting fluid" should theoretically fire a truck regardless of actual ether concentration, considering even some of the propellants are combustible. Seen it not work first hand though. Using high quality stuff as well. Certain lawn equipment designated fluid usually has...
Actually I have experience with burning holes in pistons using ether in a worst case scenario situation (must get started). As well as the proper use of ether. Carry a can in the truck.
There was a situation a few years ago that I was trying to help a boy get his 7.3 running, it would not fire...
And I would argue that ether alone will run an idi. Actually I've seen it not work at all and the only issue be the Schrader vale at the filter housing allowing too much air intrusion. Maybe if one could meter enough in on regular basis, but 7 liters is a lot of air to ignite with one little...
To the op though, if you don't find any lights loose or blown, you could try the lockup switch, and see if it still misbehaves. If you run it in manual ovveride and it still locks, you know the problem is not your fipl at least
I'll take an e4 at core price if it's a 4x lol.
Both tranny's certainly have their virtue. I'll challenge anyone willing to tell me a zf is the only way to go halfway up the hill on my property.
Anyone who says a standard works as good and as usably off road in adverse scenarios has never been...
If you open the hood on the motor assembly, you'll see the round usually black cover. If you pop that off, you'll see what in referring to. It's what actually make interval wipers interval. Poor connection here can do some weird things
Agreed.
I found out first hand that changes in the total electrical system will adversly affect the reading. I made several upgrades to my grounding, and all of a sudden when my mechanical gauge reads 190 my stock gauge reads between a and l.
The stocker uses a thermistor that reduces...
100% on too much tounge. I have certainly had my fair share of
"Oh crap my wheels are turned but I'm still going strait" lol
Oddly enough, it has only seemed to occur when someone besides me loaded the trailer.....go figure hahaha
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