Didn't read the entire thread, but did you change the fuel filter? Also check fuel delivery pressure/lift pump. Also check for restriction in the return lines - probably easiest to just run a hose off the return valve on top of the pump to a bucket.
Going to be a a$$, but if you don't know what you're doing to the point of not being able to figure out how to adjust the wastegate perhaps you shouldn't be messing with boost/fuel settings.... very very easy to blow your engine up there, do you have the money/means to deal with that?
All...
Worth thinking about copyright issues - you're on an open forum so it's possible for this to show up on google and get attention the wrong way. I personally would be more discreet about it - something like 'pm me for a possible source for a manual'.....
Unlikely to be an issue? Yes, but worth...
Might want to check the shaft with a metric caliper - I would not be too surprised if the idi pump is fractional inch (11/16" it looks like from your numbers) and the newer pump is a metric shaft.....
Insert would be easier to cut threads in too - is you're using a lathe then it means you're not cutting into a blind pocket (assuming a tubular insert), and you could even tap it assuming you could find the right tap. Weld and then thread mean a fair amount of boring into a blind hole in hard...
Shaft is buried in a box at the moment - it's similar to the stock fan clutch shaft - female 1-1/4" thread about 1" deep. The TIG setup I have would be very difficult to get in far enough to weld especially at the bottom unless you stuck the electrode out a fair bit beyond the cup and relied on...
Well, you either know a lot more than me about fab work or less.... not sure which. :-P
My immediate concerns with that are the difficultly of making a good solid consistent weld on the wall of a small pocket like that, possible warping due to uneven heating, loss of hardness in bearing seats...
I'd be hesistant to use too light of oil - lighter oil will leak more and allow more slipage. I think my original issue was putting too much in, not too thick of oil. It's sort of a trial and error endeavor.....
Honestly for me I'm just happy to get the thing to work, and I'd prefer to error...
I doubt making the adapter would be easier than rethreading the clutch - likely a fair bit more work in fact. The clutch I have took about 10 minutes to take apart, and once apart the shaft is a nice simple easy to chuck fitting - center it up, bore it out a bit and then braze in insert. Not...
Biggest problem I see is the fan mounting - fairly easy all things considered to rethread or install and insert to get the clutch to mount on the stock pump. Problem is the fan clearance. Every clutch I've looked at would put the fan 1-1/2 to 2" to far forward and not be nice to the radiator...
Horton 996135 is what I started with - EC450 clutch for a DT466. There were a couple on ebay for $299 for round about a year that I was looking at but never got the money. Finally did get the cash but they'd sold. However, I found a different one, made by NREC, I think? Looks like it's actually...
Ironworker,
Not sure how the 6.0 unit is, but I'm guessing it's an electric controlled viscous clutch through the ECM. No easy way to make one.... What I am doing is better I think - found a spec for a electromagnetic fan clutch that should work (DT466 IIRC) and found one on ebay NOS but it...
Anyone got one? Junk, shot, blown up, whatever.... looking to cut it up for a project. All I care about is the threads where it screws onto the waterpump nose, and all I need there is the actual threads - trashed hex is fine also.
Thanks,
~John
I put up a thread about a year ago - $5 fan clutch repair is the title iirc.
Basically drill a small hole in the front, put in some silicone shock oil (rc cars - get from a hobby shop) and put a screw in the hole.
Just refill the silicone fluid - $5 and about 5 min of work..... As long as there's nothing physically broken (and I'd bet 98% of the time there isn't) it should work. Now, it'll eventually leak out again, but I got a year out of mine.... Then just do it again. Way cheaper than a new clutch, and...
Interesting, I found the Haynes manuals to be decent. Chiltons was the useless one IMHO. The Haynes 'diesel engine manual' copies much of what it says straight out of the Ford manual.
Best is the OE Ford manual. I have a spare 84 manual if you're interested.
I'd believe it. Even with my old non wg turbo and the wg Banks only doing 7-8 lb it felt like close to twice the power. I found that the turbo lets me run a gear higher than I would before - that is a hill I'd pull in 2nd at ~25 I could do in 3rd at ~45 with the turbo.
If you figure that 15...
If you look long enough eventually you'll get lucky. I got my 16+4 Zieman 12k steel deck trailer for $6-700 IIRC. Ad had no pictures and sounded like a pos homebuilt trailer so not many people were interested in it. Wound up having to fix a few cracks and redo the brakes and bearings but it's...
Cleaning up a bit:
Free for cost of postage:
1987 Aerostar/Bronco II/Ranger spec book
1987 Ranger/Bronco II supplement
1982 Truck Pre-delivery/Maintenance/Lube manual
Reasonable offer:
1982 E series Electrical & Vacuum Troubleshooting manual
1983 E series Electrical & Vacuum...
Anyone ever had a strength problem with an axle? Either D70 or 10.25? My feeling is that aside from lack of oil and mechanical issues like the loose pinion nut on the 10.25 both axles are pretty much bulletproof for this use.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.