https://www.alliedmotorparts.com/products/88-94-international-ford-diesel-7-3l-v8-exc-direct-injection-030c1-cylinder-head
Still shows “call for availability”. For the record, these are not the highest quality heads that you could hope for. They are affordable, and should work fine. I’m running...
https://lmiwelding.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=20
Looks like they still make the lift kits. Honestly the price seems pretty reasonable for the time savings of figuring it out and fabricating it yourself.
The reality is that $5000 just doesn’t go very far in any used vehicle these days. It used to be that an entry level working man with enough mechanical ability to change his own oil, and slap a set of brake pads on could buy a beater car for $1000-$1500 and it would last him a year or so. That’s...
I change a lot of oil, because part of my job is taking care of a fleet of trucks and equipment. The way I look at it is if it’s a large filter and easy to get to, then I pre fill it. I use the same strategy for fuel filters as well. So by that logic I pre fill both on an IDI. But for instance...
The solenoid on the passenger fender is the starter relay. It has one small stud that the wire from the ignition switch hooks two. The other two large studs are connected when the small stud gets 12v with the key in the start position. One of those large studs has a #8 or #10 wire that runs to...
LMC shows the block off in the pictures, but doesn’t show it available or give a part number. I’m not sure if there were short bed F-150’s with single tanks too, that might be another place to look.
Here’s my take on what you’re seeing. First off, the factory oil pressure gauge mod is better than stock, but an actual gauge with numbers would be helpful and fairly inexpensive. If the original center section was shot and the pressurized oil was basically falling through it, I can understand...
In our current supply chain situation, you want to make sure you have a set of pistons before you pull the trigger on over boring. It would suck to bore and hone +.020" only to find +.030" pistons were all that was available. Any way you look at it right now though, it sounds like the heads...
Are you running the original water separator with the “pull the ring to drain” design? I’m not familiar with them, but they have a reputation for being a problem.
You are correct about the timing adapter. As far as bleeding the lines, the nut only needs to be about a 1/2 turn loose. More info s ok , but unnecessary. I like to use a remote starter switch for stuff like this because you can be there watching what’s going on, but make sure you have the key...
There was a member on another forum I was on years ago who’s quote in his signature line was “You can trust your mother, but never trust a ground”. It’s funny the things that stick with you years later, but there’s some truth in his quote. Though, I don’t “always” trust my mother.
When I first got the motor for my truck about a year and a half ago, it was smoking like yours. Thick white smoke that smelled of unburned fuel. When I checked the timing I thought I was reading it wrong. It was at 13 degrees after TDC. It started fine and ran ok, but once I had the timing set...
To add a little to a couple of your points:
#4 this unit comes with a magnetic pickup that is 8mm, the corresponding hole in an IDI is 5/16”. You can either drill the hole out to 8mm or file the probe down to 5/16”. Neither takes very long to do. Also this unit will work with a standard...
Check the timing registry on this site, otherwise you are stuck buying your own setup. Several people, myself included, have bought NIB government surplus units from eBay for less than $200. They work well.
The powermaster starter for the PSD is an IDI starter with a spacer. So, you can toss the spacer and use it for an IDI. Otherwise, just buy an IDI starter. The 6.4 starter doesn’t even look close.
Check timing with a meter. That can definitely do it. Also the timing will change as the IP and injectors age. But 140k is a long time on the originals, so I’d be budgeting for a quality pump and injectors.
I guess I should have been more specific. Is it leaking in the core? Where the core meets either tank? Or, maybe where the tubes enter the tank? Are they pin holes(like electrolysis) or cracks (like over pressurized). Just trying to get a better idea of what might be causing it.
Yes, 13 psi is...
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